91Pioneer

OK this is a tip for newbies mainly. If you find your "brake thingy" by the rear axle is dangling down, you can easily fix that up by zip-tying the lever into a horizontal or slightly above horizontal position like this. When I bought my 91 the lever was dangling straight down and the brakes almost felt dangerous. Well I really had little to no rear brakes. The lever is supposed to be connected to a rod on the diff and normally it sits horizontal with the ground. When you load stuff in the box, it pushes that arm above that level to proportionally increase the braking power to the rear. Full disclosure: I had that thing level with the ground at first but when the snow & ice hit the ground I could feel that the rear wheels were "pushing" the trucks when I braked. I tweaked the zip tie (tightened it) and now when I brake on ice I can tell I have full braking power all the way around, the fronts don't lock up right away, the truck stops awesome in winter now. So in my opinion the level you see that zip-tie at is PERFECT, for all year round really. As rusty as it looks I can tell you with 100% certainty that the valve works.

If y'all want a cheap quick fix for the load sensing valve just throw on a zip tie and tie it to approx the level mine is at. Don't go any higher than that, go closer to horizontal with the ground if you drive unloaded all the time. It will make a huge difference, mine was dangling when I bought the truck and it was almost unsafe to drive.

Along the same lines, is there a way to reapply the two-sided tape to look good?

Hey hornbrod, if I send my emblems to you will you make them all look like new? OK seriously I'll try it myself when I'm at the new paint stage ;) Good tip.

Whoops I know little about the 2.5, disregard my earlier post LOL

I'm picky and the FEY bumper is nowhere close to the stock bumper. Sure it fits but it does not look the same. I plan on restoring my OEM bumper if I don't find a better condition one. Cost be damned it can be fixed LOL. It's just metal, hit it until it's as close to straight as possible. A little body filler and blocking and it's ready for paint ;-) Last time I checked the body shop in town I've dealt with charged about $70/hr, if you just had them make it straight and you did the painting, I would think it wouldn't be more than a couple hours labor. If you wanted them to completely restore it then yeah at least double for filling, sanding, painting, etc.

Whoever is interested in moldings should e-mail Cowles and tell them what you want. Maybe they could reproduce the same stock Comanche style molding if there's enough interest.

For the cost of a new tank and the safety factor, I would not trust a used tank unless it was plastic. But I live in the land of rust.

I'm not a huge fan of wrap/plastidip style jobs but that turned out really, really well! Nice.

You had one there when it left the factory. Perhaps someone bypassed it, which isn't a big deal. If you know what you are looking for and it's not there, it's probably bypassed. Look near the vacuum line thingy between the air box and the fender. Look for two wires that may be taped/soldered/clipped together. But this begs the question why are you looking for it? Are you have problems?

I found this via a search. I have the same problem, one of the clips from the airbox has rubbed into the PCM wiring harness. It caused hard starting and a misfire for me today as I was working with the cooling system and removed the airbox lid during that. Stupid, stupid design, a metal clip can rub right through wiring to the PCM. Jeep/Chrysler should have damn well known better. Oh well guess I'll add fix PCM wiring to my to-do list.... at least I was able to wiggle the wiring and get it running like normal LOL

Fix up that brake load leveling valve soon, your brakes will thank you.

OK so I soldered my radio wires too ;-)

Butt splices if done correctly would be fine for something unimportant like a stereo. Anything pertaining to the vehicle running should be soldered (lights, sensors, etc.). Ideally you'd want to solder and shrink-tube everything though if you have the skills.

Hi, I've already got one of those to use as a last resort. I'm really trying to find the single switch panel.

What a nice truck, I really like that green. Sweet truck and you're right it's not looking so good anymore... https://southjersey.craigslist.org/bar/4788689665.html

I have a set of 746 injectors, PM me if interested.

Stay in school.

For gaskets, use Fel-Pro permadry wherever possible. They're more money but will outlast the rest of the vehicle and not leak a drop. RockAuto, Amazon, eBay, I buy from whoever's cheapest with shipping.

I'm looking for the switch panel with the fog light on the left and nothing on the right. Let me know if you have one. I really just need the panel as I have a switch already. If the switch is in it that's fine too.

Around here that is not a rust bucket, it's almost a cream puff except for the door damage.

OK pretty simple here, how much money do you have tied up in your Comanche? If you have multiple, pick one or break it down per truck. My old 88 I had about $3,500 into it when I sold it. I bought it for $2,500 and put $1,000 worth of work into it. My current '91 I have about $1,700 in it but I have a long "to-do" list as I restore it. I'm not sure how high I'll get when all is said and done. I paid $700 for it and again have $1,000 into it, check out the links in my sig for details. If I do a full re-paint like I hope to, I'll probably be at $5,000 minimum.

I was thinking the Sherman ones were crap too, I edited my post to not include them. I will do some research but Sherman may be selling the same parts. I can't see there being more than one or two suppliers of these rocker panels anyway, but we know there are many retailers.

Happy Holidays to my MJ, it's gettin' new parts and some TLC!

At the beginning of this thread, dave92cherokee showed some XJ rockers that did not fit well at all even though they seemed similar to OEM, like these Keystone ones. His situation however was grafting 2 different vehicles together, not just a rocker replacement, so it's a little different scenario. I wonder if he was using OEM or what? We already know that C2C is nothing but trash, however I'm beginning to think that there are some differences in the OEM-looking ones as well. OEM = best, it's looking like Keystone = 2nd best. The Auto Parts Network appear to be the same product, although APN is likely not the brand but the supplier. It would be nice to narrow down the best brand of replacement rocker to use, so we can help people in the future. The nice thing about this thread is that we're flushing out which XJ rockers really do fit. I'm going to go for a known good brand that Jeepman used, sorry APN isn't a brand. I also checked out the APN site and did not see replacement rocker panels.