Megadan

LUK is a decent quality clutch. I used a sachs in mine. As for the 2x4 and strap idea, if you have an engine crane and straps you can also do something similar. I Used my hoist through the interior to lift the straps on the trans up into place. It will be a lot easier to balance the trans without the T-case bolted to it, but I installed my trans, T-case, and Crossmember as one unit with help from a buddy on the hoist and a floor jack and wood under my pan to change the angle of the engine. This was in the middle of winter when it was hovering in the single digits, and it took us about 4 hours total. Those two top bolts were honestly the worst part. The trans crossmember bolts in the frame are the biggest unknown, but the stud and nut and two inboard of the frame you can hit with some PB or liquid wrench and soak them a few times before you try to remove them. Mine all came out without a problem after doing that.

Sounds to me like your clutch is not engaging/disengaging fully. This would defintiely cause many of the issues you are having. Conversion to external slave will require a bellhousing, lever, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder and hose from clutch master to said slave.

Nope The problem with expensive MIG welders is: They make you look at everybody else's cool stuff, make you dream of all the cool stuff you can build, then take up all your time building all that cool stuff...Then you realize you need a bender...then a tube miter...then a bandsaw...then a.... chop saw...and a drill press....and a stationary belt grinder....and...

That gauge cluster is probably worth more than the rest of it just because of that diesel tacho. I kind of wish it was within easy driving distance because I would seriously consider trying to save it. Just a hair too far for me, especially for something I would want to drive back... although I could tow it. MJ saving an XJ and all that.

Clay bar does work well for light misty overspray. Heavier coats I would definitely try thinners first. Last resort would be dish soap, water, and wet sanding. It would really depend on where and how heavy that primer is.

Mine are loud, so loud that I'd chuck'em in the trash today if I could afford to replace them. They are not even 50% worn. (XJ) They will be replaced with Nitto. I have Nitto on my MJ now and they are a REALLLLL nice tire. Smooth and fairly quiet. I have the same tires, and they are very quiet. At least compared to the horrid POS tires that the PO put on the thing (Primewells). I like them a lot.

The welds are also under high lateral and angular torsional load. In english, it keeps the axle centered and takes side loads when the axle is not level relative to the body. The U-bolts are there to keep the spring clamped to the perch, the perch is supposed to take the majority of stress loads, hence why they are so thick.

IMHO, get a welder that has gas hookups. You can run flux core on it, and later if you decide to run gas you just hook up the tank, regulator, and line(s) and tadaa. If you want a welder that can do stuff like spring perches you will want to get at least a 175-190amp unit. A basic rule of thumb for steel with welders is the amperage is the capability of steel thickness. A 200amp welder can weld 0.200", or in rounded terms, can handle 1/4" thick metal with no real muss or fuss. There are some tricks to get better penetration from less power, including using flux core wire with gas. The flux core wire, being hollow it acts like a thinner wire than it's actual diameter, and when used with shielding gas will give a much deeper penetration, but at the cost of a narrower weld. Common technique for guys that weld big beams making multiple passes.

Congrats on the find! That's the exact kind of vehicle I try to get my hands on, rough, but nothing major. It looks like it should clean up fairly easy.

I will say this FWIW. 235/75-15's (29") on 3.07 gears sits right at 1700rpm at 60mph and is a complete dog trying to accelerate. Once I get to around 65, which is just shy of 2000rpm it starts to pick up. 31" tires with 3.55 gears will have you sitting at about 1800rpm at 60mph, which as said before will be a bit doggy, but sadly would be a mild improvement over where I'm at now, which I can cure with a downshift if I need to. I actually want 3.55's for my 29" tires. As stated 3.73's would be ideal for a daily driver with 31" tires, and 4.10's would work well but would be a bit better for off road.

I drive on those kinds of roads with my truck on 235/75-15 tires with spacers and upcountry front springs and new GS leaves with Chevy drop shackles (a hair over 2" front lift, and about the same rear). My truck looks a little silly, but not like it missed leg day either. 31's would be perfect for me, but I need to regear first (3.07's FTL). If you still want that much lift, go for it. You will definitely have ground clearance.

And none of that changes the angularity of the arms in relation to the ground. ;)

I'm just gonna scrounge the yard for a ZJ and inspect the boxes for Leaks. As long as I don't find one leaking like a siv, I will just clean it up as best I can, flush it, install it, and adjust it until I am satisfied. My current box has 140,000 miles with no leak and only needed a little bit of adjustment. If I get something around the same miles and condition, I'm good with it.

Conventional wisdom for the drop brackets is based off of simple suspension geometry. While you can get away without drop brackets or long arms, the angle that the arms ends up at can and will effect ride quality, and can also reduce or limit travel in more extreme examples. Whether or not a person has actually run either option has little bearing on the facts being what they are.

I believe Hornbrod is referring to this thread, which is very recent. Fuse box and wiring have been beaten to death lately, a cursory glance through this section should prove helpful. http://comancheclub.com/topic/47319-fixing-fuse-block/

If you want an idea of what's involved in a rebuild. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0801-saginaw-steering-box-rebuild/ You could always get a junkyard steering box and rebuild it yourself, if you have the patience, tools, and gumption for it.

Well, looks like I have something else to grab from the bone yard now. Already raiding a ZJ for about 10 other parts. You guys are going to make me broke lol.

^That, but good adjustable control arms with drop brackets will be plenty fine. Whether you go long arm, or what I mentioned, it will probably end up costing around the same. In any case, definitely do some research and decide which option is best for you and your budget.

I need a really big bag of popcorn to pay attention to this thread. I had a thought the other day of a 6bt powered J20... Now the thought is a want. :thumbsup: Sweet project!

Aside from the bench seat, that is my exact interior (i have a 1988). Your guesses on the age range seem right to me.

Monstaliner is another great one, and applies as a roll on. I had great luck with it on two different truck beds in the past. Great UV resistance too, and with two good coats it's really durable.

Eh, better a dumb thread to try and get it right than no thread and doing it dumb. Glad you figured it out.

Look at all that corrosion. Not even soldered. Good thing you caught it when you did instead of realizing there was a problem while the truck was on fire.

I'm jealous of those floors...

Join the club, there are a few of us with your kind of problems! I just starting taking my dash apart and I am starting to chase wires one at a time. If the weather holds I am going to restore my fuse block. Electrical gremlins just require some good old fashioned gumshoe detective work and a few tools. The connectors and grounds are the two biggest culprits for most issues on these. The fun part is driving with half a dash and a gauge cluster floating in mid air lol