xjrev10

I think I know yer secret.....

Happy New Year Jim!

I feel the same way. Now you get my point! [emoji106]

Ok. Here's how I'll tell you. I let a friend of mine use the hammer on MY jeep. That's how simple it is.

Wow.

After re reading some things I wrote, don't mind the little errors in the text. Typing on a iPad is different then a computer.

Yes. Being the clocking is different on the wrangler transmission, the tunnel took a little modification. With a hammer. Not a big deal at all. No picture taking needed. Just beat the metal till it's clearanced. No rocket science! The seat was a b*@$£ it get back in after but I made do. The t case clocked up is better then down!

Just cuz it's free doesn't make it a good deal. I'd go with a 8.8. Sucks tracking down disc brake parts and the parts are NOT cheap. 8.8s can be had from $50-250 complete.

When I called and ordered my Hell Creek leaf springs, I was on the phone with Tom just shooting the $#!& for 45 min! Very nice guy! Mine took 6 weeks to get. My ONLY complaint is the finish on the springs. Just primer. I painted mine.

Last I checked, wheel studs are a hell of a lot cheaper then a hub By all means.

It's not coming off till it gives me a reason to take it off I think....

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These next photos where taken just after my big transmission debacle. When I swapped in the AX15, I bought all clutch parts for a 97 XJ. Flywheel too. Well wouldn't you know... The truck wouldn't start.. Dummy. In the meantime I discover nasty white oil and a ball bearing ball stuck to the drain plug in the ax15. Not a happy time... So I went on a hunt for a different trans and ordered a correct Renix flywheel. I lucked out and found a nv3550 out of a 00 TJ to use. So now that's installed. Also had a custom rear shaft built by Driveline Specialties in Duluth, MN. Rustys Offroad HD x member and a Daystar 1.5" drop trans mount Driveshaft and IRO HNT SYE installed. Curious why they didn't use a CV end at the driveshaft shop.... They knew the application, intended use.. Hopefully I don't have any issues. Trimmed the fenders the standard way. Cut and fold in the rear and just cutting in the front removing the factory inner fenders. I tried to figure out a way to reuse the stock inner fenders but to no avail. So I went shopping for some swim noodles at the end of November in MN. As luck would have it, I found some. Painted and glued in with construction adhesive. I also used the same adhesive on the rear fenders where I folded the material over. Keeps the tabs where they are supposed to be and also keeping the dirt out from behind them promoting rust. Rear Working on wrapping up some of the last things to get the truck on the road. I've had rear lighting issues since I've owned this truck.. Found this mess in the fuse box.

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Why would you wait for wheel studs? Why not just replace the whole hub?

Go double shear and don't ever worry again. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=10215&Category_Code=PFX

I just got a message on Facebook that pricing will START at $1400. That was from the Edelbrock Rep.

No price info?

Looks like I got other issues also. The brake light and turn signals do not work at the same time either.... Ahhhhh Friend of mine stopped over and it sounds like the best plan is to run all new wire from under the dash all the way back.. That's the plan as of now.

0331 head issues aside, that thing is still gorgeous.

What year?

I have a 89 FSM electrical manual I have been using. But hasn't been much help in this case.

I got a hitch. It ain't purty but it's functional. $175 shipped to lower 48.

Been messing with this project most of the afternoon and still have issue. I have power at the jeep side of the harness connector for turn signals in 2 spots. (Bottom small pins. 2 spots. Alone so I can't check brake lights easy) My PS tailight has power on both sides of the socket. (No issues over there to begin with just learning..) My drivers side has power only to the running light side, nothing on the other (signal, brake) side of the socket. I can't find anything goofy or out of the ordinary. There are 2 black wires that come off the ground block on the driver side (not the fuel pump ground spot) that run to the center of the truck. They have push pin type connectors. Unknown if that could be related... I poked the gray/white strip wire on the drivers side with the flashers on and get nothing when I should. I would think that would rule out a bad socket. I also cleaned all of the crap out of the sockets. Hope this makes some sense. I'm at a loss.