philbert001

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :agree: Maybe rear main?

If you want it to last, base/clear is the way to go. Single stage doesn't have very much UV protection in it, and that's why it oxidizes so quickly. Spending another $500 now is a better idea than re-painting the truck in a few years.

Don't you dare sell it without giving me first dibs!

:agree: It sucks replacing so much and seeming to get nowhere with it, but once you do all this stuff, and Get it right, it IS like a brand new truck!

:agree: Yup! After replacing every one of those things, it turned out to be the last two. Control arm bushings, and steering box!

Note: don't confuse the pitman arm turning, with slop in the box, which will result in the pitman shaft, (AKA selector shaft),wiggling side to side, instead of turning. This is all why you WON'T Find one cure all answer on here for death wobble!

Death wobble is almost always a result of many smaller contributing factors. Tire balance, alignment, tie rod/ drag link ends, sloppy unit bearings, control arm bushings, sloppy steering box, track bar, (Either end). The best way to chase it down is to have someone sit in the cab, and with the engine off, have them jerk the wheel back and forth, like 1/8 of a turn, while you are under there looking for something wiggling. If it's all tight, all you'll see moving is the pitman arm turning slightly, and the wheels wiggling. if there is any wiggling between two components, there is at least one culprit! (For example, if there is wiggling between the trackbar and the trackbar mount, replace trackbar. if you see wiggling between the draglink and the pitman arm, time for new rod ends, etc.) All those parts should move in unison with the steering wheel. If they are moving independent of each other, there is at least one of your problems! Have fun!

The filler vent tube could be broken/cracked or disconnected. You know when it's gonna do it! Get your @$$ under the truck when you fill up, and figure it out! :wrench:

What's in it? 3.07s? If so, I'd say 3.73s would get you mild highway RPMs, but less balls, and 4.10s would give you more balls, but higher highway revs. I'd say that would be your happy medium range though.

It being in full rich mode is also why you are getting 10mpg!

Nope! Unplugging it would have the same effect as it's non-functional condition now! When they die/ get unplugged, the ecm can't tell weather it's running rich or lean, so it forces itself into full rich mode. running rich causes no real damage, whereas running lean can cause all sorts of problems!

Also, while you are in there, pull the sliders out, pull the rubber boots out, and make sure there is no corrosion between the caliper, and the slider boots. Grease her up, and reassemble! I had a bunch of corrosion in mine, and it caused the caliper to not slide/return when braking. caused the caliper to actually clamp the rotor at an angle, and overheated the right brake! Not fun hitting the brakes at 60 or so, just to find that you have no right front brake! (Yanks the truck into the left lane!)

:agree: That's what I'd look for! (From experience!!)

Probably the very best mod you could do!

Yup! Or, if you can't come up with a pitman arm puller, just knock the drag link end out of the pitman arm, and use the junkyard box, with it's pitman arm still on.

I am running 33s with 4 inch backspaced wheels, and at full flex, she rubs framerails out back. (SOA 35, healthy stock springs, about 5.5 inches on top of an already healthy rear stance.) There's one more reason to go with less backspace.

Backspacing is the measurement from the inside lip of the rim, to the hub. Hence, 3 inch backspaced rims, means that the hub of the wheel is 3 inches in from the back edge of the rim. Best way to measure, (easier Without tires), Run a straight edge across the backside of the wheel, and measure from the straight edge, to the inside of the hub. The measurement your buddy was talking about is the offset. (How far off center the hub is in the wheel)

Mostly classic Rock. A little late 80s/early 90s rock, older Indy rock. I've got a handful of 4 Gig thumbdrives loaded up and in the glove box, so I mix it up quite a bit! (Could probably drive to both oceans and back home without listening to the same song twice!)

:agree: You'll be amazed at how much nicer it'll drive with all new bushings too!

You do not have power steering, therefor, it'll always be difficult to turn without the truck rolling. It is very easy to swap in a power steering setup. Go to the junkyard and pull the pump and box and lines all as one unit, and you won't even have to bleed it! The pump would be located where your uppermost pulley is located on the drivers side. I would take all the pump bracketry from donor vehicle too, as I'm not sure how far in the differences are. Probably just like the non AC trucks. The non AC idler pulley bolts right on where the compressor would in an AC truck, so I'll assume the power steering setup would translate the same way. Adjusting the box probably won't make it easier to steer. (But power steering sure would!) Upon a second look at your pic, it looks like you'll need at least the bracket for the front side of the pump.

I only suggested 10 wide because you are running 35s. If you were running 33's, I'd run 8 wide, but on 35s, you'd be pulling the tire in an awful lot. If you can get a deal on 8 wide, you'd probably be ok, since you aren't running super wide 35s, but if ordering new, I'd spend the extra $ and go for ten wide. Either way, the backspace will measure the same, and I would run 3 inch either way.

If all your panels line up good, and your door closes properly, I wouldn't mess with the hinges without knowing what you are doing. If it's close to sealing, just pull the seal down, and roll the pinch weld out a touch with pliers, or a hammer, and replace the seal.

I would look at your drivers side swaybar bushing/clamp. if that's not shoved back, you have bigger problems than you think! With that 3 inch lift, is it running factory control arms? (Stamped sheet metal, not tube steel) If it is, the lift should be pulling the spring away from the swaybar, so something is definitely bent!

You too? Oh yeah...several times! I wanted to make it look like Ryan Dunns porsche! (No?...Too soon?...)

Seriously considered setting it on fire, and watching it burn!