Automan2164

'92 Was the first year without the CAD. Rob :wrench:

Been to one? Details? Rob

I just keep the forum main page on my favorites on my phone, and I am on here so much at home, when I drop the FF browser bar, the index is always my first one. Rob

Hate to be the party pooper here, but... Fake. Rob

One thing Illinois got right... No vehicle inspections, and only if its OBDII do you have to do emissions. At that, all they do is plug in a scan tool, to make sure you don't have a check engine light on. No engine light is a pass. Anything pre-'96, you don't get hassled. But the overpriced plates, taxes, and tolls I'll give to another state. Did you know our governors make the license plates in Illinois? Rob

Click the post just before yours on the forum. Rob

Could this be clutch master syndrome? Have you checked it for damage from brake fluid? Rob

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/xj-8 ... cs-432289/ Rob :redX:

Anything will work with steel and a welder, question is, what is your comfort level? Rob

If I lived within reasonable weekend driving distance from ya Jim, I'd have already been there. Rob :cheers:

Mmm... Grill choices... Wait, those kind of grills? Rob

Glad to hear she's ok. I couldn't imagine watching the wreck from the seat of another car, knowing your loved one is in danger, and there wasn't anything you could do about it. By the look of the Rescue 42, it seems like the local FD had their stuff together and did a good job. You ain't kidding about the tin-can roof though... On the lighter side, you now have a nice donor for a derelict MJ. Rob

Scratch that, I already posted about it when I saw it: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28162 Rob

If my other computer was up, I had saved a picture of an XJ that someone grafted on the front end of an International Scout... I didn't think it looked too bad. Rob

Is the bell housing leaking anything? If it is, you need yourself a slave... Top off the master is you need to, and it should make itself real evident. Also check the firewall above your fuse box in the interior for moisture from the clutch master leaking into the drivers compartment. That would tell you the master is bad. Check those, and get back to us. Rob

You can get cheap ones like that at your local auto parts place... The good parts places anyhow. This is the kit I made them buy at work: http://www.tooltopia.com/steelman-95978 ... =nextag_r1 Bit pricey sure, but better than the cheap plastic, and knurled aluminum handles for holding in small areas. With us and getting new cars once every 10 years, we always have the latest pain in the @$$ terminal ends... The micro64's are the worst... Good investment. Rob

I'm going to venture to sat an Eliminator would have came with cruise. Easy way to check would be to follow a throttle cable on the intake to the cruise motor. Rob

It could have. Kind of a weird question... What are you fishing for? Rob

That was '80's-tastic. Neat. Rob

4.0 holds the tough and as anvil trophy in my book... 2.8 is the anchor. 2.1, while anemic and finnicky gets the unique award. Let the opinions flow. Rob

IIRC, our own eagle had some problems with these when back when he bought one of his brand new XJ's back in the day. After a couple of warranty repairs, they still leaked. They stopped the leak eventually though, with a set of fixed ones. Rob

Just me more depressed every time I hear of a later build than my Elim... Rob :(

Finally got around to finishing the car in between fixing crap the guys break and the normal grind. Its kinda too bright for my phone to handle, but you get the picture. UMKYJofueoo General pics of the process: And the finished interior: Rob

Busy, busy, busy. I have a chance to finally start cranking on this thing, and want to ask the advice of the Farmer followers. The Farmer came with the optional towing mirrors, which comes with extra supports in the doors for the mirrors. I'm planning on losing the towing mirrors, so I need to deal with the holes/supports. Question: When I weld the holes up on the door, should I pull the supports out and fill the holes? It comes out with a few bolts, but I was thinking of just leaving in there for rigidity... Pics: If I were to leave them in, I think I would just grind off the rivet heads, and do small tacks over time to keep the heat from warping the flat of the door. I'd probably just leave it bolted to the bottom of the door the way it is. What do y'all think? Pull them and weld the holes? Or weld it all together to the door skin? Rob :dunno:

I use the same pump every time I fill, only fill until it clicks off, no topping off. Then I use the amount filled vs the trip. I wish I could trust the average MPG calculator on the over head console, but I don't. Simple math it is. I do watch the instant MPG though to keep my driving habits in line. Rob