Automan2164

HOLY MANIFOLD CRACKS BATMAN!!! :eek: That thing must have been L.O.U.D. Fine job. Rob L.

Whoa, lets keep it in the pentastar family at least... Thems GM letters is fightin woyds. Rob L.

Pete, I have seen longbed 2nd gens, but only base model ones. Rob L. :dunno:

Additionally, if you did pump until dry, you might have to bleed the master. You just make 2 short lines or put some rubber hoses on a couple of short lines back into the master. Then all you do is loop them back in, and pump repeatedly until there is no air. Rob L.

Was the engine broken in from the rebuilder? What type of 5w30 you running? Synth? Dino? Rob L.

Have you thought about the WJ steering box upgrade? Less turns lock to lock, and it seems to get a good rap from everyone who tries it. Also, since it would be newer, chances are less likely that it would be as worn out compared to a 20+ YO MJ or Dak box. Rob L. :dunno:

They did make longbed Dak's. Don't think I have ever seen one in an extended cab longbed flavor in the second generation style... I like them, and is most likely what I would drive if it wasn't an MJ. Awhile back, I found my dream Dak, half the country away. 2001 Black Shortbed extended cab 4x4, with the 4.7, and a 6 speed manual. :brows: Too bad it was too far away. Rob L. :drool:

Pumped 'til the were dry!? If you did that, you might have introduced air into the master, and you might have to bleed the master. Essentially, you do not want the master to go empty, unless you are replacing it. How I usually do it: Replace any lines/components. Soak all bleeders in penetrant Break all bleeders loose, then retighten Grab an assistant, have them pump 3-4 times, hold, and crack the bleeder on the right rear (or furthest bleeder from master, working to closest). Close bleeder, have the assistant pump and hold again until you have no more air in line. I usually also do it until I have clean fluid also. Repeat on all the bleeders, and once your done, make a few hard two foot pedal smashes, to make sure there are no leaks/weak lines/bad parts. Its important to close the bleeder when the pedal is released, as they can suck air back in. Crack when held, closed when pumped. Rob L.

I have never really had a problem with the load sensing valve when bleeding. Have you bled brakes before? What is your procedure? Rob L.

How are you bleeding the brakes? Are the cylinders right side up? Did it get low enough to suck air into the master? Rob L.

When you change it, check for water as it comes out. Does your coolant bubble in the radiator if you run it with the cap off? (Start it cold, with the cap off, and check for bubbles.) Do NOT open the cap hot and check for bubbles. Rob L.

If you pull the dipstick, is it milky or coolant colored? I have a feeling the "steam" you see out of the oil cap is normal, and just a little blow by, but lets start with making sure you don't have a headgasket leak. Rob L.

I would unplug the rear harness, and pin out the reverse lights coming from the cab with a DVOM. If the reverse light circuit still is getting power with brakes, you know the short to power is in the harness from the brake switch somewhere. If you don't, you'll know that its in the tail light harness. I am betting your short is in the tail light harness though. The wires back there share a ton of common grounds, and if the grounds get bad, power will try to find its way out anywhere. If there is less resistance to go through the reverse light than to go to a poor ground, it will. Electricity is lazy. Rob L.

Hey that engine stand looks familiar! Enjoy. Rob L. :cheers:

Just two bolts from the backside to get the cylinders out. With brakes, always do to one side what you do to the other side. So if you do a wheel cylinder to one, do the other. Drums look complicated with all the parts and whatnot, but you can usually get them done with a pair of pliers and a good screwdriver. Even easier if you have the plier-like drum brake tool you can pick up at most parts stores. But, as I always tell anyone tackling drums for the first time, don't worry! Leave the other side together, and you have one to look at! Rob L.

I am going to advise you to fix the wheel cylinder instead of capping off the line, then tell you what you should do to fix it. Don't eff with your breaks. They left the factory with 4 of them for a reason. Rob L.

Reminds me of this guy: Rob L.

I think if you found a 4.0L MJ, it would turn your world around from the 2.8L. They can be had out there, and you would be amazed with the increase in power. I think that for what you want, any '87-'92 LWB MT 4.0L would be just what you want. Rob L.

I know where there is an all original V8 Hornet Wagon Sportabout. Clean, no rust, garage kept. 304 Auto. Rob L. :brows:

The best I could do is tell you whether it was bucket or bench, column shift, or floor, auto or manual any more in that area. Jeep is slowly deleting all the body code history, and I think the last time we knew, you couldn't get a breakdown past '89. MJ's do have a lot of stuff already in there for most things though, like the cargo light for example. All you need is a switch and light, the wiring is there already. Rob L.

Yep. Actually looks like its done right, and that gets points in my book. Rob L.

Nope you'd be paying $200, for $350 tail lights. Thats a deal in my book. Rob L.

We are in the same arena Jim. I read it, went, "This is the answer to my problems" and then thought, too good to be true. Fished around on the website linked to the warning, but got bored, and just figured I ask. Rob L. :D

That legit? Rob L.

I was excited to think they could be collectible, but then had this thought. A 195X Jeep Willys Pickup was at a swap meet I went to, Farm truck, no rust, but hard worked, popped up in the rust belt. Ran, drove, and zipped around still. They wanted $2500. I don't think anyone should be picking these things up if they plan on a financial investment. It might be awhile before you see a return. :rotfl2: Rob L.