cracker

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html Try there and good luck! Electric problems can suck!

If one is to do the work to do an engine conversion it might as well be worth it for all the work it is going to take. A 4.3 is not better than a 4.0 and is not as reliable. I am, though, all for engine swaps and modifications if they are for the better. :thumbsup: (4bt, 350, 5.3, etc) Plus if something goes wrong, you won't necessarily have the support or knowledgebase here for folks to assist you if you go down the 4.3 route.

Pedal assembly too and possibly an auto throttle body (if there is a difference on the HOs as there is on the Renixs)

This donor that the Engine is out of is already been scrapped...thinking I'm already way out of my league... It is somuch easier when you can do the side by side swap to see how things go and have every nut/bolt/fastener.

You'll need the throttle body, complete pedal assembly and steering column (if you want it to function with a parking lock) too. Wade, it looks like you are missing the trans harness too. The TCU is stuck to the underside of all the dashes and yes, you can grab that out of a yard. To do this swap, I would highly recommend a complete donor vehicle side by side to get this done right. It'll save you time, hassle, and money.

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Thanks guys. :cheers: I need to weld up some perches on an 8.8 for a stock rig and send it to a buddy a couple hours away. I will set the pinion up tonight then

Can anyone crawl under their stock rig and let me know what the stock rear axle pinion angle is for either a short bed or a long bed (I don't beleive there is a difference)? Thanks in advance. -Avery

Wassup Bo! 4Bt in there and register it at Rick's house. They have no smog in Borrego ;)

This is Clayton's crossmember for a long arm:

Oops, I misread this. I read this as how to go from an AW4 2wd to 4wd. Sorry.

There should be no adapters necessary.

You will need to swap out your transmission for a 4WD unit (either that or do the research to see if the rear tail cone can be swapped out.) Regardless you'll need another AW4 (either for parts or to swap). Depending on what year 4WD AW4 transmission you find, it could be a 23 spline or a 21 spline unit. (23 spline being stronger) You will need a matching transfercase with the same spline count. My suggestion for a transfer case would be a NP231 over the less common 242. My experience is that the 231 holds up better. The 'non vacuum disconnect' Dana 30 axles would be a better choice for you. I beleve they were from 1991 though 1999 but someone here will need to verify this (unsure of the years). If those Rubicon wheels are 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern they will work. The late model JK Rubiocons are 5 x 5" bolt pattern and they will not work.

Wow. That looks nuts.

I concur. I would even say that the OEM shafts will work pretty good up to 35s.

Interesting. I was unable to make it work in it's OEM condition. My lift may have been the culprit though. I am at 7" of lift. I needed to have an inch and a half more length to my drag link in order for it to function. To make it work, I had to change out the pitman arm TRE with a GM TRE (either the ES2026R or ES2026L of which I don't recall) and that offered me the complete length I needed.

I think the door looks fine. Good job.

yeah they hit the grill ill post pics tomarrow when i get home. I think the OEM fog lights were not very 'deep' and had the mounting bracket towards the extreme rear of the light to prevent this issue. Good luck.

Was it warm out? If the IAC gets warm, it can cause the vehicle to idle high. Out here in the desert it happens quite often. We went wheeling with 4 XJs/MJs and 3 out of the 4 vehicles were doing the same thing you are experiencing and it was about 105F out. You may try swapping out the IAC with another one and see if it solves your issue.

Are they tilting because the back of them is touching the grill? Most of the aftermarket lights just have a simple bracket that allows you to adjust the tilt on them. I would suggest posting a picture for more assistance.

Bingo. I can't tell if you are finally agreeing with me, or trying to be sarcastic. The original question was: The simple answer is that the manual tranny steering column already has a lock and there is no NEED to change it when converting to an automatic. Sure, if he wants to interlock the PARK function to the steering column lock he'll have to change the steering column ... but that's a lot of work that is not necessary. I don't understand why you seem to have a problem with my pointing this out. Bawahahahah :rotfl2: Don't worry, I'm used to your antics from the older Naxja days. The OP asked what is entailed in doing the swap and asked about the column lock. You clearly have an issue with me offering what is entailed with changing from a manual to an automatic and that it interfaces with the column from the factory. Now you are trying to ‘fight’ that it is not 'needed’ and is ‘more work.’ I have no problem with you suggesting skipping this step but your tirade went a bit further than a 'suggestion.' In regards to changing the column being 'more work' as you so emphatically stated above, you seem to be once again mistaken. Since you seem to get most of your information out of a FSM and not from practical experience, I will share that on my MJ is was necessary to remove the steering column to remove the triple pedal assembly. I assure you adding the column from my XJ donor vehicle was NO additional work as I had already pulled it to access the double pedal assembly to go into the MJ. The brake booster must be pulled slightly into the engine bay as well. As far as the cable itself goes, it just sits there and snaps into place within a moment. I also would like to reiterate that I did say it was not needed and for minimal safety reasons it may be used but it is necessary to get the OEM automatic column lock functioning (should one decide they want it). My decision to install the column was mostly a safety concern. I have children around all the time crawling in and out of vehicles. Occasionally someone else will borrow the MJ for an errand and more importantly, I am unsure who will have the vehicle if I decide to part with it (they can have small kids too). I am the type of guy who believes in using seat belts too. The other reason it went in cause it was already there waiting to be used (it also had a tilt column too :thumbsup: ) The OP is a fireman and probably holds safety as a concern since he puts himself in danger regularly. It will be his decision to make the call but I have made my suggestion on what it would take to make it ‘factory.’ I apologize but I won’t drink the ‘Eagle fruit punch.’

Depends on if you want it to talk to the TCU or not - if you are rigging it with a manual shifter, it's literally no different to install. If you want it to talk to the TCU, you have two options: swap the output speed sensor rotor, sensor, and tailhousing from the older trans onto it, or build the small circuit lawsoncl designed to convert the newer signal into the older one. A few more details and some links: (output speed sensor differences and ways of fixing them in these threads...) http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...#post243739279 Frank Z's post on swapping the rotors/sensors http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=999938 SimpleXJ's thread on the same thing, also notes the tailhousing is different - note I seem to recall on my 99 AW4 there was only one groove for the retaining ring, but I'm not entirely sure. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1021599 - see lawsoncl's posts in this thread if you want the electrical magic method. A few other notes - * as far as I know, 91-97 (yep, 97) AW4s are the same, however you will need to splice about 4 wires to put a 97 trans into a 91-96 or vice versa, they decided to change the connector but nothing else. No big deal, a caveman can do this splice job with tools from the autozone electrical aisle. The colors for the solenoids match perfectly and there are only two wires left for the OSS, which should match or be close and can be swapped anyways since it's just a reed switch on these years. * 98-01 AW4s have the 4 pulse/rev sensor and add an input speed sensor of the same type, 87-97 AW4s have a 1 pulse/rev output sensor and no input sensor. You can put a later into an earlier and just ignore the input sensor but going the other way will involve a full rebuild and some machine shop time, it's simply not worth it. * putting a 97-down AW4 into a 98-01 XJ MAY be possible by splicing the harness for the AW4 (since 97-down only have ~5 wires in the harness while 98-up have 7 due to the new ISS addition) and installing a 97 TCU to get around the input speed sensor being missing. I have not yet tested this because I don't have a 97 TCU on hand yet. I still need to make sure that the ECU doesn't request a firmware version or something from the TCU via CCD bus, if it doesn't, this combo will work perfectly. (information supplied to me by Kastein from a private message I sent him the other day)

I beleive Claytons makes a kit that will work well but please take a note above that the rear 44 from a waggy is REALLY narrow and with the way the MJ frame rails extend wide in the back it will be VERY hard to not rub when flexing. Depending on your backspacing on your wheels it could be as little as 1/2" space between the tire and frame rail on flat ground.

Bingo.

You are asking that is it possible for the battery to die when the high beams are on? Yes but not with a functioning (or properly operating) alternator.