Rockfrog

Unless he had faulty stock injectors and was only getting 10-12mpg before ...

I run WJ knuckles and a custom 1 ton steering on my XJ. I had worn out stock everything so the upgrade cost was offset by that. Calipers, pads, rotors were about same cost as stock. I went OTK/OTA and used synergy double adjuster to allow custom bends and stock GM TRE's as the offsets wear out quickly. I run the Teeves calipers, never had an issue, and can lock up my 35s on demand. I also have room to run a 15" alloy Wheel ... It's tight but clears fine (steels would have loads of room). Best upgrade I ever did.

I run a ceramic plug harness I picked up off evil Bay, uses standard relays. With the sealed beams that came with my MJ the improvement is night and day. I did replace the front header harness as well when I swapped front clips but that is just signal voltage now. I generally drive all night on low beam, never really need high beam, used it far more with the stock wiring though. Light output on low is now equal to what I was getting out of high beam before.

Bolts are 3/8-16 x 1.25" Studs are 3/8-16 on the head side, and 3/8-24 on the manifold side.

Cable drive and electronic speedo drive are compatible. They can be swapped without worry. In fact, 91's used the cable drive unit to run and electronic sensor that threaded onto it, later years used the newer all in one sensor. After 02 things become incompatible (the hall effect VSS came into play) The 97's external slip is the only real issue to worry about. Swapping the main shaft won't work unless you also add the internal needle bearings to the cluster assembly (the later shaft uses an oil film bearing - meaning they simply deleted the needle bearing and resized the main accordingly) and add the complete older tail housing (from main case half back). In 94 the internal gear pitches changed so no new gears will not mesh with older gears. The input gear IS compatible as they never changed that (just have to worry about spline counts). Really, it just simpler to get the newer yoke and bellows and slap it on your driveshaft. Make the case an easy bolt in swap. Shift linkage should bolt right up no issues but due to trans lengths you may need a new adjuster rod, doubtful, I have only ever seen two linkages ... 231, and 242 in an XJ. Changing to the Boostwerks direct linkage will eliminate the issue altogether.

And back from work, this run logged 18.7mpg so once I kill the exhaust leak she should be good to go again. Had a sagged front coil on the driver side, so swapped in a set of Moog CC782's (Grand Cherokee variable rate) with 1" spacers. And a set of YJ Sensatracs. Nothing fancy, just good and reliable. Sits better and the axle is where it should be again. Thinking I'm going to go with a set of load assist shocks for the rear, and see where it ends up, if I end up needing more weight handling after that ... a Dakota main (or another stock main) will be fitted under the stock main.

Got the tires balanced, fronts were waaaaaaaay out of balance. And another oil change to 15w40 Rotella. Ordered up some Moog CC782 variable rate Springs for the front. I have come to realize I traded two worn out and sagged 2wd Springs for one good and one sagged 4wd spring. Apparently the previous owner of the springs was on the larger side. Driver side is sagged 1/2" below the passenger side using my exceptionally accurate eyeball Guage. Will sort out the Tracbar/axle placement issue after those go in. Thinking since I have a set of aftermarket fixed LCAs I'll throw them in at the same time for a little extra caster ... No pinion angle to worry about right now. Then just a set of adjustable uppers once I find a front axle I like.

I minimized the whole vacuum mess up and a couple associated solenoids and valves. Don't have A/C so she's pretty much down to bare bones. I find both my Renix, and my 00 HO about equal to work on ... Just a different tool for each (scanner for the 00, and a voltmeter for the Renix). At the end of the day, it's just a 4.0 ... Easy peasy. Just need to tweak her here and there.

Well it made more sense than using an 88 manifold on a 92 head. The 88 head was toast, not use able. I had a 99 intake, 92 head and various throttle bodies on hand ... So I made due. I have a boat load of 92 up parts, no 90 down. This wasn't a let get power project, it was a get my arse to work project. I have an XJ for the other stuff. I'm just looking at making the best of what I have at the moment. She has plenty of grunt, and rarely sees over 3000rpm if ever. Upside is now most engine parts are more readily available.

Cool, so I'm probably just over thinking it is all then. Going to grab some more exhaust donuts later today and seal the flange connection, not impressed with the "wire mesh" seals I keep getting.

You be makin me sad mister. I just remember reading about a drop in take velocity being the main issue with using a 99 intake. Engine is running great, except for a troublesome exhaust leak (crappy exhaust gasket, possible warped manifold have a spare good one). Last run was 16.8 mpg with a really leaky exhaust (mating flange had loosened off and the section past the cross member was cobbled) and a large vacuum leak ... so actually pretty good considering.

I just wanted to swap a clock (mine) for a blank panel. I want to put some mini guages there, and a perfetly funtionning clock should not go to waste. Easy as that. kook911 ... let's see what we can work out. Shoot me a PM

So I want to delete the clock in my 88 MJ's dash. If you want it and have a blank panel to fill the hole (in good to excellent condition), then we can work a deal. Save me from hacking a perfectly good working clock for no reason.

Transfer case uses ATF (Mercon/Dexron III). AX15 uses standard 75w90 gear oil, the owners manuals ad a misprint and the recommemded oil spec (GL-5) was actually corrosive to the brass synchros. Use plain old off the shelf and cheap GL-3. Although some have also used 5 or 10w30 with good results as well.

I've like to revisit this one from a different angle ... Would there be any benefit ... from a fuel economy perspective ... to dropping from the 58mm bore of the 4.0 HO throttle body down to the 52mm of a 2.5 throttle body? I mean it was the stock Renix bore anyway. Just thinking out loud really more than anything.

That was the remains of the dust shield, toss them.

That was the remains of the dust shield, toss them.

New ujoint went in er today. About all I had time for, then maybe a wheel balance tomorrow if there's time. Hopefully that should solve the shakes. Wanna try to put the flares on this weekend as well.

The 4.0s have one coming into the starter through the bell, and the other into the bell through the starter.

Should be two bolts going up through the starter face (where it meets the bellhousing) like a Chevy ... On my 92 they were external torn heads, 86 hopefully is a normal her head.

Well, damn, there goes that theory. Guess I may just grab my double sheer bracket, and an old RE Tracbar I have and either have it made to fit using a GM tie rod end and ream the stock bracket, or find a new heim and tube end to fit and use the double sheer bracket. Would be fitting, as so far not much stock stuff fits anymore.

Add some extra grease into the caps to hold the bearings in place, helps make sure they stay there. Nothing sucks worse than the sound of a needle bearing snapping when yer almost done. OK, we'll maybe a split dual cardin pivot yoke snapping while removing the old joint sucks more ... So remember to remove the retainer clips, now go check again!

Looks like I've been good to lift it 2"... Although they are used Springs, the old 2wd spring were worse. It's just odd, threw me off guard. It's really noticeable without the flares on. And this is after a 248km drive so the suspension should have settled by now. Not like anything was new.

We're there any differences between track bars between 2wd and 4wd MJ's? Reason is I have a standard Moog replacement, 4wd front Springs, 1"spacers, stock control arms and an 89 Cherokee frame bracket (stock one was wallowed) ... And the axle is pushed about 3/4" to the passenger side still.

So took the Ratmanche in to get the exhaust pipes connected permanently. She's much quieter now, so quiet I can hear an exhaust leak when I get on the throttle ... Yay, now I shop for a new manifold, joy. Picked up a couple of ujoint I need to toss into the rear driveshaft. Played with the headlight plug and swapped some pins around so now I have a ground for my left Park lights and all is good there. Biggest new issue is the truck is 2wd, has 4wd spring and 1" spacers in the front, and my axle STILL is about 3/4" pushed to the passenger side. I do not want to lift the front to fix this. No room to redrill the bracket, and I may have to have it bent some to bring it back (that's not going to be easy). Or lift the front about 2".