tjbliley

I just got around to getting my winch checked and installing it into the MJ. I added some hooks to finish off the front and now it is ready to go. I also adjusted the rear shackles a little bit. I had too much rake IMHO, so it needed to be more level. I also needed to protect the rear brake line until I could add a bracket to lower it a little. In doing my front end work I found that I needed new tires. I got some AT's, 30x9.50/LT15's. They are not a first line brand, but they will work until I can get the gearing done and go to 31's. Now I need to do some exhaust work and then body work.

I have one of those to go in mine when I paint the column. Summit racing.

You are talking about the EGR and pre-heated air intake. The valve on the front of the box draws air from the dryer vent looking hose attached to the area under the manifold. The one on the side of the manifold is the EGR. That recirculates exhaust gas based on the premise that it contains unburnt fuel until the motor heats up.

Try this post http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... cad+delete But instead of shimming it, you will need to follow all the directions to fix it. Here is another post to help http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... disconnect You might want to look up the Posi-lock on the net and see if that might be an easier fix for you. http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

vacuum disconnect on the axle. being welded you need it to work correctly. can't shim it cause driving will suck being welded. you will either have to go to a posi-lock or fix the vac.

I think the lift in the back is 4.5. front is prob 3. Extender was around $100. Tried to talk them down but the manager would not budge.

won't notice much from the front until you put it in 4WD. You have the Vac disco up front so until you pull the lever, its just spinning a shaft.

I have finished swapping out the rear springs for some 4x4 ones I got from 99ncxj(thank you), after they were rehabbed ala mjeff87. They were torn down stripped and painted with graphite paint. Rebuilt with a rusty's 3in AAL, rehung with 2in chevy drop shackles and bolted in with poly bushings. Shocks had to be replaced so in come the front shocks from a ford F450 Super-duty(Gabriel G63692 to be exact). Rear is kinda stiff but I am hoping that everything will settle in over the next couple weeks. I had swapped the front springs with TJ 4in lift springs and some longer Rancho 9000 shocks, but I still was chasing some death wobble. Could have been because the axle I used to convert from 4WD was a junkyard find and I did not do the rehab on it when I converted. So on to the front end rehab. I got a full Poly bshing kit which included the rear spring bushings. When I started the front end I decided to use half rubber and half poly. I was hoping to have some sort of decent ride up front more on that later. I used an extra set of control arms so I pressed in sleeves for the poly bushings and some rubber bushings in the lowers. I pressed in sleeves in the uppers for poly. I pressed out the bushings from the axle and found that they were pretty much toast. I put new rubber in the axle. Installing the control arms I found that there is no easy way do go about this. I ended up pulling the wheel and undoing the shocks, swaybar, and compressing the spring to allow the axle to move enough to install the new control arms. When I installed the lower control arms I put the poly on the axle end and the rubber to the body. For the uppers the rubber is in the axle and the poly in the body. In the kit were some boots for the steering linkage so I put them in. I installed a new steering stabilizer. After all this work I took it for a test ride and guess what...........Death wobble seems to be gone. Now I need to do some exhaust work, replacing the Cat and everything back from there. While I was waiting for the springs to be finished I found a nice little something at my local Pep Boys Store on the clearance table. Now my stance is just about right, may have to drop the rear an inch. Jeff emasured and I think the fender is 21 from the hub up front and 22 1/2 in the rear. with the drop shackles I have the option to drop it an inch, so we will see if it settles.

What CW said and add in a fresh air filter, oil and filter change, and do a tune-up. That will get you more than messing with the front shaft.

This is my reason for keeping the front Control arms half poly and half rubber. My hope is that the rubber will add just enough drivability to make it tolerable. Also the plans for this truck are to complete a total Reso-Mod over the next 3-4 years as it is going to be my sons truck when he gets his license. I will have to look at the old bushing. I did not notice the inside. Thanks for the heads up.

There is a bed in the classifieds on here used in NC. Better deal and you prob have zero hope of getting a new bed from them. They list alot of parts that are not available. You can try but you should have plan 'B'. Try this thread http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8528

I have some interesteing pictures from my recent work on the Daily Driver I am making. I have been battling some major DW that happens around 45-55 MPH but will go away at highway speeds. It is sparatic, and it usually happens after hitting a bump or some other unsettling of the suspension. I am in the process of replacing my rear springs and front control arms, adding alot of Poly bushings along the way. I took a set of 4x4 MJ springs and Rehab'd them by tearing them down and painting them ala Mjeff87 with some EZ slide paint. I also added Poly bushings when I put them back together with my Rusty's AAL. I am replacing my control arms with Stock, that have rubber and poly bushings. On the Uppers I have the poly on the body side and the rubber in the axle. On the lowers it is the opposite. Poly at the axle end andurbber on the body side. This is where the focus of the story is. I presssed out the bushing on the passenger side after I had done the LCA swaps. When I compared it to the new one I was amazed at what I saw. The hole had grown by an 1/10 of an inch. That is alot of slop for suspension stuff. Old one is on the left. Can you tell why I am amazed? Old one Mic'd New one Mic'd I am not finished with the swap because I learned a very hard lesson today. When doing the control arms, it is alot easier to do when you unhook the shocks, swaybar, compress/remove the spring, and do the uppers first, then the lowers. I will finish and report the ride quality in a few days. I hope to have new rear shocks on by then as well. The final touches will include new swaybar links from a TJ(about 2 inches longer), a new steering stabilizer, and rebuilding the trackbar with poly. All these things should make it a great daily driver.

Looks good Sean. Keep up the good work.

It is a cheap part at the autoparts store. it is a vacuum motor which turns on the heat from the antifreeze. opens the valve. they break if you hit them wrong just moving things around under there. It is an easy fix. Some people have just pulled them but then your heat is on all the time in the core. make the ac work harder I think.

1 for the whole truck and it still could have gone on for more work.

If you bubble the paint you may as well sand and repaint it. once the bond is toasted its over. goo-gone is not needed with the eraser. it is completely gone. just wash and polish and you are done.

Don't use the heat. Use the wheel i used http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat06.html It is like a rubber eraser for your truck. It does leave alittle ghosting but if you are going to do this then you must have already decided to polished the truck. I am getting ready to do some body work and repaint. Then I am going to put a small double pinstripe down the body line that goes through the keylock. I also am going to remove the black bodyside molding. Before After I am also going to put White herculiner on the rockers. This should do alot toward giving it a sleek apearrance.

Do they have an injector for the 2.5 renix TBI? Sorry for the highjack but I have to ask.

how much was the cat? You know I need one bad. Also, when you gonna wrench? This w/e? If it is raining I might bail on a trail work thing cause I am not ready for constant wet in the Mj yet. We might be able to get some stuff done in that covert shop you have access to.

I am the kind of guy who believes in insurance. If the clutch had gone bad and you were replacing it. Then is the time to replace the flywheel, when it is accessible. If the clutch failed then I would be suspect of the flywheel. If it has one crack in it and you give it too much heat while riding it to get somewhere off road, then you are really screwed. That is why I would replace the flywheel. If I was replacing it and had issues with the throwout bearing I would make sure that all the parts were made to work together, ie - replacing everything from the clutch cylinder to the flywheel. Might cost a little more up front, but you would not have any issues with it for a Long time.

Everywhere I looked The part number was different. It may be the same spec though. I was talking about the fact that if you are swapping part of the clutch system you should replace all of it. from the slave to the bearing including the flywheel. To try and peice together parts from different motors, to me does not make sense, since all the parts can be gotten if you are going to do the whole system. I would have to agree, now knowing more info, that you may need to look to the hydraulics.

If they are the same they are about $150 difference in price. On another note. Why would you buy a clutch setup that has a throwout bearing that is not the same? It must be for a different tranny/motor combo. I would think it would slip since it is not made to work together. I tried to look at my microfiche but I can't find the 2.8 flywheel. If I had to guess, I would say you might need to start all over with the right parts instead of fighting it for a long time.

Won't be done until you get it aligned. Then it will ride like a Cadi................or as close as a Comanche can come.

Have you been spying on me and Mjeff87. We just had this conversation about 2 hours ago or so. It is a good idea but there are alot of things to look at when you do a V8 swap. Most important is the unibody structure and the strength of the mounting system in the MJ. I am sure there are those who have done it with out issue butthe engineering of the unibody just was not designed to handle the torque and power. The drivetrain mounting system was also not made to handle it. trying to contain the torque with folded sheetmetal just has to been investigated alot further.

Would prob look like a baby version of these new trucks ( Fords, Chevy's and Dodges) lifted so high they don't even look like they are anything other than someones RC toy on steroids.