tjbliley

Wheelbase is king. whether it be short or long. One is better for some thing s and the other is great for other things. you get my drift. If you know how to use your rig and tread lightly when you wheel what does it matter what you run. I know without even thinking hard that there are places a Hummer would go that my mj or my tj could not beacuse of horsepower and wheel base. There are also some places neither my mj or the hummer could even think of going that I would just walk through in my tj.

Jeff, I am going to replace all 4 on my WJ up front in a week or 2. I will let you see how they work when I am done. They might need bushings when I am done. I will be in touch when I do it.

I just got back from Camp Jeep in Wisconsin. This may not sound like it means much except that I went up there with my WJ and my TJ. My MJ had to stay at home cause I have not finished the 4wd conversion. I weighed my TJ before we left and it weighed 4200 lbs, 2000 on the front axle and 2200 on the rear. I was towing it behind my WJ with a 4.0 in it. I had new brakes on the WJ and I had new brakes in the TJ. I was using a pneumatic toad brake in the TJ run off of an OBA system and it made a huge difference. I had towed the TJ around town to drop it off for repairs of drop off the WJ but I knew it was pushing the system. After going almost 2000 miles with a black TJ 3ft from my bumper and using the brake system I would say that towing with the MJ could be done if you prepared it properly. You would need to make sure that your rear brakes worked perfectly, which is not easy, and make sure that you could keep it cool. Your compression on the motor and the valves would need to be in great shape because you would need to use the extra little bit of engine braking on any hills and blowby or valves leaking would eliminate that. Flat towing would be the only way to do it, unless you have stuck a D44 from a rubi or something under the front and maybe a narrowed D60 under the rear all with new BIG brakes. Remember that if you towed it on the trailer the weight of the trailer tongue would need to be distributed by the hitch system you chose and then you would have more weight on the front axle pushing the tires down. This then transfers some of the forces through the connection of the frame rails and the unibody. Thats not where I want to excert alot of force on a 15-20 yr old truck. Anyway, I have researched this alot prior to my trip and while this trip does not make me an expert by any stretch on the imagination I think I know a little about the subject. 8)

It was the Fuel Pump. Its fixed now.:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

I am going to try the starting fluid today and then move on to the CPS. I have another one I can use if the one that's in there doesn't test ok. I hope its not the fuel pump or somethign like that. I thought I heard it running when we tried to start it. I guess I have a long road ahead today. Thanks for all the help.

I have one for sale in VA if you need one. I understand they fit some S10's as well as MJ's.

My wife was driving the MJ home from work and it just quit. It was running and now it won't start. I am not going out in the dark to F#%$ with it tonight but I would love if someone has any ideas on where to start in the morning. Its an 88 2.5l w/ AW4 in an MJ. I guess I should look at the NSS and the ignition, but I did not smell gas in the TBI when I took the cover off. It was at around a 1/4 full on the gauge so I tried to add fuel but it still does not smell like its getting fuel. It will turn over and tries to start. but it does not fire. Any ideas?

NIce Truggy. It looks like you all had a great time.

The other issue which a SYE resolves is the driveshaft length issue. To find out if you may need one you would have to raise the frame or your rig as high as possible, then let the rear axle droop to max and see if your drive shaft is close to coming apart during any type of articulation. With leaves it is not as much a prob, but when you change much it will help to check.

Sounds like a vacumn leak. check all the lines under the hood and inside the dash. also check the resevoir behind the bumper on the pass side and make sure it is not leaking.

I have had both good and bad experienses with Rusty's goods. I was told before I even thought of buying from them, that anything rustys bilds himself you will have to refit and adjust when you install it. Anything he resells from another manufacturerer, will be fine. This I have found to be pretty close to true. Everything I have gotten which was fabricated by rusty's needed adjsutments and holes redrilled and some filing done when it was installed. The items which were from another manuf. through Rusty's installed fine and works well. This is just my $0.02 and take it for what its worth. I have beat and wheeled all the parts and they are on daily drivers.

Trails we use in the Mid Atlantic area are mostly fire acces trails. By running these trails they are open for the equipment to get through in a timely manner. If no one used them then in the fire season they would have to PAY people to clear the roads or just clear them themselves when there was a fire they had to get to. This would cause them to have slower responses or spend money on something that was going to be obtained for free.

If you look at the 'L' thing you will notice a distict resemblence to the offspring if a Durango and aWrangler mated and had kids. I belileve this would make it a bastard child and not a full member of the family. More like a step child.

When things go haywire they usually mean a bad groud somewhere. Check all the grounds. Engine and everything else you can find.

Its called a CCV or Crank Case Ventilation. it is just air flow without a valve or restriction.

I have some picture sof my tranny, but I don't know what it is. Can anyone or everyone help the uneducated. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I hope these help cause I don't have a clue. It would be nice to know so I can speak well when I have problems with it.

VA backup light problem. I spoke with a Trooper in the Richmond office and she said that if the bulb and socket are removed then the light is considered an ornament and is not required to pass inspection. Now I can move on to the suspension problems.

How would I know the difference between the two tranny's? I have picturres if that will help I can post them.

I just swapped in a 2.5 into my MJ. I have it running for now with issues until its warm, but my next item on my list is to get a safety inspection. For this I need the Backup lights to work. I think it has had some major surgery over the years and I don't know what to do next. I think it has an AW4 auto in it but I haven't been able to verify this as an absolute. I have heard something about a nuetral safety switch but I have not seen it when I have been under there. I need to get the grease and oil off the tranny to see everything. Bottom line is that the backup lights don't work and I don't know what to do next. Any help would be great. :?:

Here are my pics