terrawombat

I have Bendix front rotors and pads on my '01XJ that I bought from RockAuto. The pads came in a Bendix box that said 'Made in USA' on it, but I don't remember looking at the rotor boxes. They seem fine - I'm not driving a sports car so if it stops, good enough for me. The brake dust is annoying though, but a monthly car wash takes care of that.

I'm going to assume Z-Hills is Zephyrhills, Florida. Sorry, I'm not up on the Floridian lingo. So, going with that assumption, I did a Craigslist search around that area for a Cherokee transmission. I see there are several listed. Some of the more notable ones are as follows: http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/2184445266.html - been up for a while so could possibly lowball him http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/2248199425.html http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/2223961591.html - comes with the desirable 242 t-case http://sarasota.craigslist.org/pts/2177965901.html - low mileage, but 21-spline There are many others listed in other surrounding areas, but I'm not sure exactly where you are or how far you're willing to drive. For a lot of transmissions, I would not take the chance on getting a used one, but the AW4 is a beast and is one of the few transmission I would take the chance on to save some bucks.

Under the black plastic vents on the B-pillars - behind the doors.

Rear main seal, oil filter adapter o-rings, and/or valve cover gasket. All are VERY common spots for oil leakage on our engines.

It's 18Ga. steel. Here are a few pictures of the front left floor pan:

Welcome to the prestigious 1992 MJ Club. We hold quarterly meetings at some of the finest establishments in the country.

Also wanted to add that I generally start up each one of my project vehicles once a month and let them run until they reach normal operating temperature. I'll also pull the handbrake and put the vehicle in Neutral as I know some transmissions don't pump fluid in Park. Not sure if the AW4's are like that, but I know my 46RE in my ZJ is. Gotta keep the blood flowing!

I've only ever heard a CRD Liberty run one time, but I don't remember them being that loud. Also love the random animal shots haha

Or if you can't read a micrometer, a set of digital calipers will get you well within the needed accuracy for determining which Gauge steel is on there.

Hate to be a stickler, but was wondering if we could put a physical size constraint on user's signatures. I understand that there is a maximum character restriction on the size of the signature, but it seems that some members are taking up a lot of unnecessary "vertical" space when listing their vehicles and modifications. I browse CC a lot on my phone and netbook, which have limited screen real estate and I find it gets increasingly annoying to be constantly scrolling through a thread to get past some of the member's large signatures. I realize that I can turn them off, but I enjoy having them on to see member's rigs, which helps with troubleshooting advice.

Do you need one because your fuel pump took a dump? If so, you don't need the whole unit, just the pump, which will be substantially cheaper. The pumps should be the same between the MJ/XJ, but the sending units are completely different.

I get where the guy is coming from with living his lavish lifestyle and calling out those that are "below" him (which is everyone in the world), but he's exposed way too much of himself. I'm glad that he's chosen to televise his demise. This will be much more entertaining than that crap show he did before. I also like how we're getting some 'behind the scenes' stuff of the Hollywood lifestyle.

In order to maintain motivation for my MJ projects, I keep several other projects going at the same time. When I get fed up with the MJ, I move onto something else. Eventually I'll get fed up with that and move back to the MJ with a renewed motivation. It takes longer for the projects to come to a finish, but I tend to cut less corners and do much higher quality work. Once I cut the floor out of my current MJ project and saw all of the rust and rot staring me in the face, I became discouraged and walked away from it for a bit. Now I'm in the middle of swapping a trans in to my friend's work van (GMC Safari AWD) and I can't wait to get back to the MJ and tackle the rust!

My plan for this coming week is to tack weld in some fresh new steel on the inside of the frame rail and then cut out the bad stuff. Once the rotted portion is out, I'll do a full weld on the new steel and possibly add a second layer of new, fresh steel - but I'll have to see how it all turns out. It looks as though the passenger side frame rail isn't rotted out like the drivers side. Debating on whether or not I want to spend the countless hours drilling spot welds to pop off the top of the frame rail. I figure I've come this far, though...might as well... I also bought a replacement front floor pan from RockAuto, which was drop shipped from Classic2Current. I was pretty impressed with the piece they sent me. I was expecting a thin 20Ga. piece of steel, but I believe it's at least 18 or 16Ga. Looks and feels thicker than the stock sheet metal in the truck, but that could be because it was all rotted out...

I bought the Home Depot Lincoln (the Weld Pak 140, 120V) welder used on Craigslist from some random for $150. He bought it a while back, used it twice, and probably was never going to use it again. He also forgot how much he paid for it, so he listed it for $200 and I got him down to a buck fifty. Bought a cheap welding cart from HF for $40 and a gas conversion kit for about $100 and I've got a pretty capable little buzz box. I've been welding up a lot of 3/16" with it and it's been great, but I think that's about the limit. Thinnest I've done is 18Ga. and it did okay. I'm finally getting around to welding some thicker stuff and am contemplating getting a 220V unit.

2008 Kawasaki Z1000 1991 Mits 3000GT VR-4 2009 Siberian Husky

I just bought the front left pan through RockAuto.com and it was drop shipped from Classic2Current. I was expecting a much thinner piece of steel, but was pleasantly impressed when I pulled it out of the box. It fits decent enough that I can easily tack it in and seam seal it up. Keep in mind that in order to get it to fit properly without cutting it into pieces, you will need to remove the top of the frame rails that run from front to back in the Comanche cab. I can snap some pictures after work if you're interested.

The availability of those decals are actually pretty good - with a wide selection of colors (including reflective ones!) - from a fellow named Spencer, who has an EXCELLENT reputation on these forums, I might add. http://www.jeepsticker.com/mj.htm I just bought a bunch of stickers from him last month. Great guy to deal with, loves Jeeps, and even threw in a few extra freebies for me!

I can understand your reluctance to want to mess with the PCM. I was there once, too. The first thing that an SCT handheld tuner will do once it's plugged into your OBDII port is download the stock firmware to its memory and save it there forever. If it's lost somehow, any tuner with access to the SCT tuning software will have your stock tune based on your PCM part number alone. If you ever want to go back to the factory tune, it takes about four button clicks, a few on/off cycles of the ignition switch and about 3 minutes of your time. So, if you're not going to reflash the PCM to tune, how will you be compensating for the extra air you plan on pushing through this engine with a higher/longer lift cam and possible ported heads? Slightly larger injectors? Adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Keep in mind that larger injectors mean that you'll be squirting in more fuel throughout your RPM range. So, when you're at idle, your larger injectors will dump in more fuel. When you're cruising down the highway - more fuel. Wide open throttle - more fuel, but this is what we WANT to happen :) The stock OBDII PCMs are pretty smart, though. They can handle slightly larger injectors without needing a new tune. They'll use the injector duty cycle and the O2 readings to know that too much fuel is being dumped in and it will eventually correct itself to try and maintain a stoich. mixture at engine operating conditions such as idle and cruising. In my experience of slapping on larger injectors without doing the proper PCM tuning, I completely destroyed my city MPGs. My highway MPGs seemed to stay the same, though. Just something to think about...

They can stay, but if the old bushings are pretty torn up, it's one of those "while you're in there, might at well do it" fixes. I've heard of people having some luck with the ball joint press tool you can rent from AutoZone and Advance Auto to get those out and new ones in.

The other bushing for the upper control arm is pressed into the front axle housing. It can be a real pain to get it out. How are you planning on getting the old bushings out and the new ones in of the axle housing?

Since you are going OBDII, you will now have the option of having complete control over the '99XJ PCM's fuel and timing maps using an SCT handheld tuner. Granted, you will have to find a tuner knowledgeable with modified 4.0L engines that can get you a custom fuel and timing map. The nice thing about the tuner is that you can get up to three different tunes and each one can be catered to a specific octane gasoline. You can still build up your stroker motor, if you wish, and basically adjust your timing and fuel maps so that it will not knock and ping at wide open throttle on 87-octane, but you'd be robbing it of precious HP and TQ. You can also have a 93-octane tune that will allow you to get the power back if you want it. If you went this route, I would highly recommend a wideband oxygen sensor mounted directly before the catalytic converter with a gauge somewhere in your interior that you can keep an eye on if you went this route. If you'd like - I can ask the guy who did my tunes for my 5.9L V8 Magnum if he has any experience tuning the 4.0L engines. The price for the tuner + 3 "canned" tunes was about $265. An additional $100 for unlimited tunes for when you modify the engine down the road and need to change the fuel maps and timing for optimal power.

Comanche bed on Mitsubishi Mighty Max frame: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22115&hilit=bed+trailer&start=0 Some decent pictures here of the start to a Comanche trailer project: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6003&hilit=bed+trailer&start=15

I will be doing that shortly as I'm getting sick and tired of having to squeeze the two levers to open the tailgate...

Thanks for the pictures and the heads up! I think I'll replace that line as preventative maintenance when I pull the assembly out of my tank in the near future. I need to figure out why my gas gauge needle doesn't go all the way to full and the low fuel light comes on WAY early. It's not the cluster and I'm fairly certain it's not the wiring/grounds. Thinking something is funny with the level sensor inside the tank.