terrawombat

I started this this kit: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200226224 I got on sale last summer for $75 and free shipping. Got one for me and one for my Dad. Finally got around to making a table out of it once I purchased a mill and needed a place to mount it. The dimensions of my table are roughly 6' x 3' to fit in the corner of my machine shop room (which isn't very big to begin with). I used some old pressure treated 2x4's I had lying around and spent another $65 on 1/2" 4-ply plywood and 1/2" MDF for the top sheet. I didn't get any photographs of the build in-progress, but it's pretty straight-forward. Here's a shot of the the framing I did for the top shelf. Unfortunately, I didn't have any more 2x4s long enough to do a true X pattern, so I made due with what I had: The mill will find its permanent home here. The chopsaw will be relocated elsewhere so that I still have a sizable portion of free work-space Also found a cheap set of screwdrivers for $8.50 total at Sears last week. Not the greatest, but they'll serve their purpose: Still to come: Additional shelving on top of the table (came with the kit, just don't have any more 2x4's long enough), 12-outlet power strip, LCD computer monitor wall mounted and connected to a free PC I got from work, and pegboard to line the back where I'll get storage bins for nuts/bolts/random small parts. Overall, I'm extremely pleased with the sturdiness of the table. I made sure each corner was square and took my time. I will likely be buying another one of these sets and building a monster 8'x4' table in my woodshop room in the near future.

Any way you could sketch up this idea and provide me with the sketch? I might be able to help you out. I'm just confused on what you mean by the valance and how you'd want it to look. Are you going for a rear bumper/hitch combo like on the newer Grand Cherokees?

Interesting. Try going to the Firefox drop-down menu in the upper left, go to options, go to the advanced tab and unchecking the 'Check my spelling as I type' box. Mine was checked, but it still didn't do the red underline on a misspelled word until I hit the space bar. Dunno?

Really? Are you speaking about when typing in a text box (like in a forum) or in the search bar? Mine still waits until I hit the spacebar before it puts the red line underneath.

That's odd. I upgraded on a WinXP, Vista, and 7 machine and every single one retained my bookmarks toolbar at the top as well as all of my other bookmarks. The bookmarks drop-down menu is no longer located up top like on the old version (except in WinXP), but on the right side. I always backup my bookmarks file every month or so. I go through computers pretty often and always need to have my most current bookmarks available for new machines.

I'm sure it's only a matter of time before the developers of the add-ins have an update compatible with the new browser. Upgrading to 4 doesn't delete those extensions, it just disables them. I believe the add-in updater will still check the disabled ones for updates, too.

It will as long as those add-ons aren't essential for day-to-day operation. The speed in which I now can navigate Gmail has improved 100000x. There used to be this slight lag when I'd open new e-mails. Now it's instant.

Upgrade to version 4 - you won't regret it...unless you have some incompatible add-on that you just can't live without, then wait and suffer with the slow Firefox 3. Normally software developers make lavish claims that their updated software is faster, but that never seems to be the case...at least it's not noticeable. Firefox 4 is a different story - it loads faster, opens new tabs faster, and loads pages stuffed with Flash code in no time. I'm impressed with the update so far even though I had to give up one of my add-ons that is not yet compatible 4, but I'm willing to make the sacrifice and wait it out.

Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, loosen the nut on the ball joint and then use a pickle fork AKA ball joint separator and hammer to separate the trackbar ball joint from the bracket. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25202-Ball-Jo ... 434&sr=8-7 Can be found at any automotive parts store.

I have had good luck getting the pan out by removing the track bar from the bracket on the frame and then jacking the frame of the truck up. That was able to get me enough clearance in my '88MJ 4x4 and my '92MJ 2x4 to get the pan out. It will still require some crafty maneuvering, but it will come out. Use jackstands!

hahaha A couple of my death metal buddies loved this.

I only use Castrol GTX conventional motor oil in all of my vehicles. When the local John Deere store was still in business, they'd occasionally have a good sale on Rotella oil and I would buy it in five gallon buckets, but those days are long gone.

I've known many people that just hook up an O2 sensor to the wiring harness, zip tie it up onto the body somewhere and just have it read atmospheric conditions. It's not ideal, but it does seem to work for them and not set off a code. I personally went with an O2 simulator that is designed to withstand the dirty/muddy conditions under my Jeep.

I apologize for the lack of updates, but I've been rearranging my CNC room since I purchased a mill. Cleared out the corner of the room and all of the junk that was there is now on top of my CNC Plasma cutter - basically a giant, expensive table at the moment. Should have the new workbench for the mill finished tonight and then I can start clearing off my table and getting the room reorganized. I have an AutoCAD file from a member on here that I'm going to open up and possibly cut it out to see if his dimensions will fit on the MJ frame. I'm also going to make the mounting holes smaller (I originally oversized them) so the clearances are tighter and there isn't as much "slop."

Decided to spend a little bit of money and bought a new set of rear tires for the thing. The right rear is very dry rotted and not holding air and the left rear has a giant hole in it that was patched with about six tire plugs. The fronts will eventually need to be replaced too because of dry rotting issues, but they seem to still hold air fine and should be okay for a while when I get some more funds for this thing - just about tapped out budget wise - got about $300 into it. Probably could only sell it for $600-$700 so I don't want to go too crazy with it.

Which also means a ZJ 360 is damn near bolt in :D

My school was the exact same way. We also had student parking enforcement "agents" walking around (I saw one in your video too) that would ticket you the instant you parked anywhere illegal. I must have racked up over $400 in parking violations on campus but got my slate wiped clean by pleading down to some community service and spending a few hours picking up trash around campus :D

That's the goofiest looking Jeep I've ever seen.

The amount of detail in the Clymers is pretty amazing. Lots of parts diagrams, but even better, LOTS of ACTUAL pictures of parts. The step-by-step directions are thorough and everything seems very well laid-out. I think it's just about as thick as my FSM for my '92 MJ. One of the first things my Big Bear will be doing is towing my '99XJ out of my shop. It has no engine/trans/tcase and I have someone that may be coming to take the shell off my hands. The low range should be nice for that :D

Ordered the parts Thursday night and had them this morning. That was quick! Tore down the carb, cleaned it in my ultrasonic cleaner with a distilled white vinegar/dish detergent solution. Blew out every passage way with carb cleaner and compressed air. Installed all of the new jets, o-rings, gaskets, and c-clips. Set float height and mixture screw based on my new Clymers manual (that manual ROCKS!). Rebuilt my starter with new brushes and put that back on the engine. Cranked it over and it eventually fired up and ran kind of funky for a bit. Let it warm up and revved it up a bit and it seems to run real smooth. No hesitation in the throttle - nice and crisp. LOUD as heck right now because the muffler is completely deteriorated and there's not much left to it. Found a used muffler on e-bay for less than half the cost of a new one. Looks like it's gonna need some paint, but should be okay - once I get that and a new air filter I'll put this thing back together and go riding! Two of the four tires are going a little flat from sitting over the weekend. While I'm waiting for some of the other parts to come in, I'll see if I can find and patch up the slow leaks.

Does the temp gauge start creeping up and then when it hits a certain point it will instantly peg to the right and your "check gauges" light comes on? If so, that's just the way the 97+ XJs were designed and doesn't necessarily mean you've "pegged" your gauge - just a safeguard. I had this issue in a '01XJ and replaced all of the things you mentioned and it still didn't help. Turned out that the engine block was full of coolant crud/mud/rust/crap that was blocking coolant flow.

If you're not going to take the upper portion of the MJ frame rails off inside of the cab, these will not fit. However, if you go the extra mile to remove those frame rails, the C2C floor pans fit in just fine.

Are there a lot of interchanging MJ parts with the Chinese space shuttles?

I went with Timkens on my ZJ. No complaints about quality or fitment. They ran me about $90 shipped each.

Flipping cars is a dirty business. I would say that Sir Sam is probably the most honest "flipper" I've ever seen in terms of doing repairs properly and not cutting any corners. I've seen some flipped cars that were held together with duct tape and became a ticking time bomb for the new owner.