Comanche County

You can pull parts from a Cherokee out of JY for pennies practically. I'd fix it, you don't need an A/C shop to do this for you. You can get an A/C system operational on the cheap if your MJ came with it. The A/C may spin freely when the engine isn't running but does it lock up when running and you turn the A/C on? If not, it could be a wiring or fuse issue. If it runs but isn't cooling, try adding a can of freon with the IR leak detector, you'll be able to see where the leaks are under a black light.

Yup, and the fan could be blowing it to the back of the engine. Fixing a rear main leak is sort of an art form, I use the "Formula P" in instances like this,,,,,P being "Plenty" of RTV.

Paid 900 for one, 1800 for another. Depends on how bad the seller needs the money. Cash is king, bring it when you look at one. Depending on the vibes I get from the seller, I usually start at 50% of the asking price, then go up from there. Don't listen to me though, I usually lose money on my Jeeps, but that's why its so fun! :cheers:

I recommend you flush the brake lines. If they've never been flushed then there's a good chance you'll have condensation in the lines with a vehicle this old. Just get a hand vacuum pump and suck all the old fluid out while having a helper keep the MC full. Start right rear, left rear, right front, left front, suck the old fluid out on each one until you see new clear fluid coming out. You can pick up a vacuum pump at any auto parts store cheaper than a brake shop will charge you for a "power flush".

The vinegar did it. I was amazed. I started to take the flywheel off and while removing it, she turned! I cranked it a little to loosen the caps slightly. Pulled those off easily, three pistons came out easy, and I just tapped the stuck piston from the inside with a piece of wood and it pushed right out. The vinegar trick was pure magic. I think the engine looks pretty darn good. My micrometer measured between 3.14"-3.16 in all the bores and there's no noticeable ridge at all. Now I just have to get the darn lower pulley off!

Lift......................LCA............./............UCA ********Decimal**Fraction**Decimal**Fraction Stock........15.75.......15 ¾........15.00.......15 2”.............15.92.......16............14.88.......15 3”.............16.09.......16............14.92.......15 4”.............16.33.......16 3/8......15.03.......15 4.5”..........16.47.......16 ½........15.11.......15 5”.............16.62.......16 5/8......15.21.......15 ¼ 6”.............16.97.......17............15.44.......15 ½ 7”.............17.36.......17 3/8......15.74.......15 ¾ 8”.............17.81.......17 ¾........16.09.......16 9”.............18.30.......18 ¼........16.50.......16 ½ 10”...........18.82.......18 ¾........16.96.......17

IMHO, an automatic locker in a winter DD (in Michigan) is a bad idea. Dry road, no problem, but eventually you will spin out on an icy surface, its inevitable.

I've put incendiaries on vehicles, they're not as dramatic in real life as they are in the movies. A real let down in my opinion,,,,a can of gas is much better on the eyes.

I think your aunt may have met my grandpa? Boy, he had some stories of treatment he got at the Clap shack. I was way too young to hear that stuff, the crazy bastard, I blame him for my life's problems!

Sold the two rifle racks for 175 a piece,,,that means a $150 1951 CJ3A...could have got more probably, but whatever, I'll go ahead and do the banana dance..... :banana:

Exactly where I put mine, except I don't have a mount so it just falls out when I hit a bump....been meaning to make something like this for a while! Nice work.

Well, as with most of my stories, they get better every time I tell it, come to think of it, I believe it was more like 8 on 1, maybe more, they were dropping so fast it was hard to get an accurate count. :banana:

Thanks for all the input fellas. I'll post the results.

Yup, tapped the heck out of them with a rubber mallet, a plastic mallet, and a small ball peen, no joy.... :dunno: I have muriatic acid but I don't want to pour that stuff in there! :no:

I'm posting this here for the expert advice I always get from you fellow Jeep fools. Perhaps the advice will by applicable to other MJ'ers. Topic is unfreezing a stuck "Go-Devil" L head 134 engine from a 1951 CJ3A. I've got the head off, engine out, strangely I don't have a 1" 3/8" socket to try and turn the front pulley bolt so maybe with the proper leverage it will turn but that's out for now. From the bottom end (with the oil pan off) the engine looks pristine, except for the fact that some previous mechanic swapped around the rod caps, there's an odd cap and the remaining 1,3,4 caps are not on the 1,3,4 pistons. But never mind all that. I can't get any of the caps off - I'm pulling with vice grips on the sides careful not to scratch them. These rod bolts are different from normal studs, they have girdles that stop them from being pulled through the rod when tightened. I've banged them with a plastic mallet. No joy, none of the caps are coming off. I'd like to disconnect the rods before the mains but its just not working. I've soaked the engine completely full with used motor oil for 4 days, I've soaked the cylinders with gas for a day, I've blown a whole can of PB blaster on everything that turns. Nothing budges yet. The engine sat with its plugs out for many years, who know how many. But luckily, only Cyl #4 looked rusted on the walls and I think that's the culprit. When I soaked it with oil, the other three cylinders allowed the oil I poured in the cylinders to leak through the rings. All the rod caps look good, they should come off, unless there's a rust weld I can't see inside the journals. I know I could pop it off if I disconnected the mains, then applied liberal amounts of cheater bar leverage, but I'm trying to avoid that! Any of you old timers know any tricks? Thanks, Jay

Yes, pics sir, pics! :wrench:

yeah, I had to call my prosthetist after that and tell him what a good job he did.....: "Hey John, I just got in a big bar fight and my leg didn't even come off!"

Well, they didn't need anymore actually, just their tactics were inadequate. While I stunned the main perpetrator, and proceeded to maintain the rear naked choke on him, I didn't let go while his buddy gave me a nice shiner on my left eye....its all fuzzy after that, as soon as I could let go of the unconscious ring leader, it was aholes and elbows all over the place,,,luckily the 5 bouncers in the place were on my side and formed a wall saving me, after it was over, I even gave the hot bartender a $20 tip after it was over. I was actually defending her, she was the one they were harassing that caused me to throw the first blow. Never the less, the owner thanked me, the other boys went to jail were from other side, me, and I just went back in and finished my beer. I'm 37, haven't been in a scuffle (outside of boxing) since I was 19 in college,,,damn it felt good!

Yeah, FL girls maybe a little nutty, if not all girls....But hey, FL can be tough, don't asked how it happened but I'm in a Jacksonville bar a couple weeks ago, these no good white thug wanna be's come in and start roughing/bullying people, then they came to me......wrong move, this partially stable vet doesn't take that from a low life and his friends with minds no more complex than jellyfish,,,,,5 on 1, 2 go the the hospital, charges filed = zero, and I get to go back in and finish my Guinness Extra Stout! That's what 12 years of boxing and MMA training in 2/75 RGR BN does for ya :thumbsup: I'm just glad my leg stayed on or I'd have to beat them with it!

My condolences, hate to lose another Jeeper, God bless him and his family!

I remember when Brent posted this awhile back...I wish I could get one of those magnets!

Check the three hole aluminum steering box brace that is sandwiched between the frame wall and the box, those braces break sometime. Check the three steering box bolts, the box itself could be loose.

Start first at the steering column linkage U-joint, follow that to the Saginaw steering gear box, then pitman arm, then drag link, Tie rod ends and Track bar. 30 degrees is a lot, I'm betting you'll find that slop in the gear box. You can adjust some of the slop out by the adjustment screw on top of the box. The more you adjust it, the faster it wears out though.

I'm confused on which way your swap is going, Renix onto the HO block, or HO intake and components on a Renix block? You can swap the blocks, no sweat really. But keep all your renix head, intake, and injection system and sensors.

The offset is negligible, you want regular thick perches. You can reuse the 8.8 perches as above after you cut them off. Trim to fit as necessary.