wyk

Those large whippets or Greyhounds? And don't make me angry:

It's been a long time since I saw a 'small kid' in Texas. ;)

The reason for this being the same reason you need lower gears when you increase your tire size. The further away you are from the center of the spin axis(wheel, winch) the less torque multiplication you have. Also, if you have a snatch block, always use that if you can VS winching directly back to your truck - this gives you more pulling power, is easier on your winch and makes it easier to keep the winch from tangling, and decreases the chances of your damaging the truck if the line or the hook point fail. If you guys have any questions regarding the winch cheat sheets, let me know. A remark I thought might be worth making is the grass in Ireland and England is usually far thicker and provides more rolling resistance than any of ours in the states do. So keep that in mind when using the ground factor chart.

It all depends on the angle on the winch line. Less than a certain amount and the pulling force isn't quite as multiplied(a pully is a 'simple machine' in scientific terms - one of the six simple machines we use daily to get work done). Always carry at least _2_ snatch blocks with you - you can attach a block to the casualty vehicle to even out the load and modify or steady the angle you are pulling from. Always try to keep your line from spaghetti-ing(it will last much longer and have more pulling strength). Make sure you know how many strands your winch line has, and how much load you lose per strand if it frays in use(because, sooner or later, it will). Etc etc. Get the most powerful winch you can safely fit to your vehicle. Every pound of capacity it has over the required load is your safety factor. There is no such thing as having too much winch. Here's some of my cheat sheets I have from doing recovery work in Ireland and England: I have seen people use a purple AKA violet sling to slingshot a 4X4 with(which is not a good idea in the first place since sling-shotting means you have no idea how much strain the line is under unless you do the math for the acceleration of the vehicle as this adds to the force significantly vs a static winch line). It is only rated at 1 ton. If you follow the cheat sheets and do the simple math, you can see that one can get into a lot of trouble unless it is a significantly higher rated strap(and color guidelines are not necessary hard and fast - so read the rating). And you guys thought all us recovery guys were jis meth addicted punks ;) Know your equipment, and know how to use it. BE SAFE! WYK

Do you mean what can ya trip off an 87 2.8V6 or what smog stuff can ya strip off? I have a 1986 2.8 V6 2se carbed Cali model I have since moved to Washington and am in the process of wondering what I can remove from it smog-wise as well. I may eventually reg it in Oregon.

I am gonna do both axles and transmission soon here. I assume the front axle takes the same as the back. I was thinking redline transmission fluid for the 5 speed.

Corn dog - taken circa 1999 in Santa Cruz, CA:

How did that tank turn out?

It's whatever one that goes on forever. I got tired of chugging it in 5th and swapped it for fourth. I made it in fourth at about 50-55mph. I am from Texas, and currently in WA lookin' for a job :(. I would love to live in Utah, but got no friends or family there. I picked up this MJ from a friend in Clovis, CA for $700 last weekend and drove it up Monday.

I took a pic, but it's so messy you can not see the 'new' oil for the old gunk everywhere. I am gonna hit it with WD-40 and drive it some to make sure it is not the pinion. It is making some very small amount of whine at fwy speeds(65+), but is otherwise quiet. But, that could be these tires for all I know. I have only had this thing in my possession for 4 days. Just got done fixing the steering pump leak as well. So that has the underside all messy, too. It isn't a locker, but the gears must be decent because even with 265/70's, you do not get very far in first. I was able to climb all but one mountain from Cali to Washington State in 5th gear with this tired old 2.8 V6.

My MJ came pre-desert-tanned. They told me they used Krylon about 4 years ago: It has a 2.5" lift and 265/70 truck tires at the moment. Soon they will be 31" traction tires. I was considering doing the District 9 camo job on her:

Cool. Thanks a bunch guys. Is there a particular gear oil you guys like? How much should it take?

Hey guys, I've never done the rear axle on a jeep before. I was wondering if you had some tech help for me here. How much should I fill up the axle. Where's the best place to get a seal/gasket. And do these things have clutch packs or anything requiring a friction modifier? Where would the RPO code for the axle be found? I didn't see anything in the glove box. Obliged

And sometimes having an even amount doesn't necessarily mean it will look better If it HAS to be in 'threes', Audi has a set up that is very race-proven

Can one tell by how clean the top end is if it was well cared for if you removed the valve cover? Do you see a lot of carbon build up if it was run hot often and the oil not changed much? Is there sludge on the parts of the valve cover? I am wondering if there is an easy way to tell if the motor was at least abused, if not properly cared for.

Thanks a bunch, mang. I am gonna visit a junkyard full of cash for clunker corpses next weekend. What else should I keep an eye out for? I have an 86 COmanche.

Will other Jeep product buckets fit? Can I pull something out of a 1999 jeep Cherokee, etc? Obliged

You guys are loopy sometimes. Thanks for the answers! Er...most of them, anyways ;)

Is the wheelbase different on a standard long bed Comanche VS the short bed? Obliged

I think that manifold and carb would put the 2.8 to a spectacular death! If youre planning on doing this swap, just start gathering parts and do it when youre ready! I am pretty easy on my rides. Even so, killing the 2.8 isn't necessarily a bad thing. I am more concerned of whether the mileage will be worse, and not better. I am much more concerned with mileage and reliability than speed. The carb is the original carb on this thing, afterall. So it's days are numbered. Nice bike, btw. Always wanted an S1. Mebbe someone will trade me one for my driveline and chassis parts ;). BTW, can ya put a 3.4L that was tied to an auto in to a Comanche with a stick, or is the boss too difficult to machine?

I think I may go and sell it. Is it worth a damn to put the intake and carb on the 2.8 until I can find the 3.4L, or is it too much carbeuretion for the 2.8?

From what I have seen so far on line, it seems a better swap for the Toyotas since they use a similar transmission set up. So maybe it does have resale value.

Wow, this thread got hijacked fast. ;) OK, guys. Thanks for the suggestions, but I have in my possession a 3.5L and not a 4.2 I do not intend to purchase an engine. The problem I see already is I have a 4X4, so the 4L60E is out unless I retrofit chevy running gear. So unless I can find a way to mate up this engine, this project is stillborn. Well, I prolly can find a way to make use of the seats...

Hey guys, first time caller, long time listener here. I now have in my possession a 2004 Colorado with a 3.5L I5 that runs fine(and has always used synthetic motor oil) and a recently rebuilt 4l60E transmission. The body is gonna be donated out, so I get all the running gear and chassis, including the interior. Is there a way to wedge this thing into a 1986 Comanche so I can finally be rid of this 2.8, or will it be far more pain than it is worth? Can I put these seats in my Comanche as well ;) WYK

hey guys, I'm, uh, new here. Anyways, I am just barely not passing smog in California with my 1986 Cali MJ. It's running fine, otherwise. I reckon a new cat would do it. I want something that will actually WORK, and work for years. Will I have to go with stock? Or is there an OEM-style outside of jeep that will work and not break the bank? Obliged, WYK