wyk

So, I had a chance to play around in the mud and the gravel today on a construction site. I shove the thing into 4HI and I immediately notice it does not want to turn in the hard dirt. But it does fine in gravel and mud. When I am done messing around, I notice that everywhere I lost traction where I could tell, all 4 wheels were tearing the gravel or mud or loose dirt up. I then took it to a thinly graveled area they used for parking and played around. Every time I gave it gas and it slipped, all four wheels locked. Is this supposed to happen? I thot we had open fronts and rears? Did someone sneak a torsen into this thing? It makes it a btch to drive on dirt if it isn't very loose. WYK

Sorry about the confusion. I have the NEW FRAM made filter. What's the problem with these? Bear in mind I have a Chevy 2.8 V6, though.

Ugh, I got a purolator. What's the deal? What's it gonna do to my truck? I'm noticing some higher oil pressures...

So whats the deal on the frams, then? I was also told that fram makes filters for a couple other brands as well. What's the story? Wooo! Hijacking yet another thread!

http://picasaweb.google.com/Cumilover/J ... irectlink# I spoke with the guy a bit in email. It needs work, of course, but the motor is strong. I LOVE that color, too. Might paint my Comanche in it. Guy want's 1500. His email is: alexr88 @yahoo.com

Wow, even in more socialized countries the oil companies are still privatized. Afterall, Shell is Dutch... So good luck with that.

I thot you had a LIGHTNING problem first time I read it. ;)

Ohhhh, I just gotta do it, just gotta! If the "steering wheel is a bit loose", tighten the nut in the center of the steering wheel!!! Snicker, snicker!!!!! :rotfl2: Nyuck!

I hate to hijack this thread, but that won't stop me: What can ya do if your steering wheel on a model with power steering *P O W E R S T E E R I N G* is a bit loose? ;)

Mine has two. Sounds funky. Loud for non air horns, tho.

I have a 65 mustang with a hot 302 bored 060, a racing C4 that snaps your neck when you put it in gear at idle, a reinforced frame, slammed 2", with a detroit locker 9" Ford rear end running 3:73's. The last time I opened it was 1997. Which, incidentally, was the last time I put (fully synthetic)fluid in it. It has worked flawlessly under stupid abuse ever since, and doesn't chew up tires any more than I can burn them off. The Eaton in my Colorado with 3.73's, behind a 225 hp I5, has been great as well. It has 140,000 trouble free miles and works like new. But, I am easy on my trucks compared to you guys. I am so unimpressed the only 4X4 I own does not have a locker. If anything, a 4X4 should make a locker mandatory. Otherwise, they should call them 2X2's and my other cars and trucks 2X4's. ;).

I am trying to find someone that will rent me a paint booth for a day. If that's the case, then the paint and the compressor issues are taken care of.

What spray did you use? I am wondering if the Enamels will take a set without being in a heat room. I am starting to lean towards Dupli-Color lacquer if I go spray can - they have a great fan-style nozzle and are still durable and there's no recoat window on lacquer.

If I get it in a can from NAPA, will I need to thin it for an HVLP system? Will this hold enough air for covering a Comanche?: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65595

I will not be at my house for another 6-12 months. So I need something compact and portable. I have used air guns before, but only for detail work. But I do have a few years experience, so I should catch on quickly. What's the minimum flow I will need for typical car paint? What would you suggest I use?

Something along the lines of this? What would be a good source of paint? I assume I will need to purchase the paint and a hardener? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44677

Thanks for the replies, guys. Has anyone ever used Automotive engine enamel? That stuff seems very durable to me, if a tad expensive. I know I'll be using Caterpillar Engine yellow enamel on my badges. I was considering using Ford Gray enamel.

I am gonna try and make this jeep a bit more presentable. I was thinking of just doing a plain dark gray and using caterpillar orange highlights for the lettering since I have my original badges. WHat paint should I go with? I can do a passing job from a can, usually. The door on my old Blazer(with the same freakin 2.8l POS as my 86 jeep!) used to be blue and the fender was red:

Wow. That is pure awesome. They should modify the name to read "Nukularizer"

I've repainted her, so I thought I would re-edit this post: It is a 1986 Comanche,w/ hideous 2.8L V6, 4X4, 5speed, 4:10 gears, 2.5" lift, and 31" tires all around, and what looks to be the front bezel from a 1997 Cherokee. It also now has the bumper end caps from said Cherokee.

Wow. Yer a ninja.

Know a good place to get a Jeep hood badge for my Comanche that won't break the bank? Obliged! WYK

It's a rebuilt E2SE advertised as off a 4cyl jeep that I was talking about. Varajets are all 2 bbl aren't they? Otherwise they are called quadrajets or monojets, no? This carb on my Comanche has never been rebuilt in its life. So, I am of the opinion I replace it(especially if it's a $100 investment as stated previously) or go to something else that is significantly better than this V2SE vs dropping more money into it in rebuild parts and time. It seems to me the V2se from the 4cyl is identical. It makes sense, they made nearly the same power and probably had similar vacuum. ;) That rebuilt carb is $100 vs say, $180 for the Edelbrock manifold, $90 for the upper part to fit a 4bbl carb, and them a small holley at $375 or so, or a 1MV which I can find new for $150 or less. So $100 VS $400-650? Uh... I think I just made up my mind. It all depends on if the linkage and hoses will match up. Or, am I better off getting one for a V6 GM? WYK

Nothing could possibly be worse than the OEM carb that came on the 2.8L. If you don't wish to buy a new maniforld, go with the Weber. A friend of mine in Greece had one on his XJ and he was very satisfied with it. Thanks, Eagle. But I may need something just as a stop gap for now until I figure out what I am gonna do with this engine. Did Jeep/AMC use the same carb for both the 4cyl and the 2.8? I have found a 4 cyl one for $100 rebuilt. Well, they claim it's for a 4 cyl, or off a 4 cyl. I dunno bout that Weber. I think I would rather get the Edelbrock intake and 4bbl adapter and drill it for a 1bbl rochester than go with that weber. In any case, I may have to go back to Cali next year for a contract, so this thing will need to pass smog... ;( I may be stuck with the V2Se regardless. Ugh. Did they make a different E2SE for California? Obliged

I did some research the last couple hours on the Weber, and it turns out they haven't changed - they're just as fickle as they ever were. Seems a better bet to go with the E2SE.