87Warrior

All right, need some help getting a trailer to load into a terrain. I downloaded a car trailer pack (.zip) and am not clear on how to get the trailer into game play. I tried following the tips here: http://wiki.rigsofrods.com/pages/Adding ... o_the_maps but do not know what I am doing. Help ;)

I found the same thing with my XP machine. Not sure I want to try it with my Windows 7 laptop with 512mb of ram.... Rob, have you downloaded any new 'terrains' for your wheeling trips? I have only got the XJ to play with thus far. There are tutorials that explain how to make trucks. Is there any way to quit a track and start another without restarting the game?

Beware, I spent a few 'extra' hours trying to figure it out last night. It was rough waking up this morning. Very addicting. :banana:

This looks like an awesome game. Although I am not a gamer by any means, several years ago I picked up 4x4 Evo 2 for my computer. Good racing game, not so much the slow technical stuff. Going to be giving this a try. Any tips or tricks? I am reviewing the 'how to' material while it downloads.

Those forward controls are very cool. If I had unlimited funds and storage, I would get me one.

This is from a '91, LWB, 4x4, AW4, NP231, D44 rig: The slip yoke is right at 5" When I set this shaft beside the D35 shaft in my truck, it was clearly shorter as it should be since the pinion is longer on the D44. Sorry, I don't want to crawl under my muddy truck to measure!

The old Yamaha rear driveshafts are not THAT hard to work on. Have never priced a U-joint for my machine, but would fully expect it to be ridiculous.

Depends what you REALLY want out of the tire. I have the Titan 489XT (http://www.carlisletire.com/products/at ... index.html) on his machine. They seem to wear a little better. Both of us are running the tires on relatively stock Wolverine 350's (2000 and 1995 respectively). Ran the ITP Holeshots on my old Blaster. A very well built tire. I would probably take a hard look at the ITP Bajacross for my next set of tires. Sheesh, looks like you should just run tractor tires if interested in the Silverbacks! Those = a bit much :rotf:

Maybe rob will cut 'em out and send 'em to me :eek: Nice story and decent out come. Now you can sleep good knowing you have saved an MJ's soul. Buckets or bench :brows:

You know, if I was to buy a Brand new Jeep for a silly high price, I would take this CJ over a JK any day.... Even if it cost me an extra $7k. That is also a valid comparison since they are both fresh off the show room floor.

Agreed. Thats a good looking pooch you have there. My advice is to not do anything radical if needed to get painful years out of her. But sometimes those crazy dogs can pop back to normal in no time flat with little intervention. Good luck with her and remember that she is your best friend :yes:

That I did NOT know :rotf: But... not surprising. My buddies and I used to load up and head to the local ORV park with the ATVs every weekend. Great times. Used to bury those machines up to the snorkel in mud and crud. Sometimes they would float when you jumped off. It is disappointing that I have not ridden my Yamaha Wolverine in 3 years....

Hmm. I am more confused about how your folks can check grades from home. Are schools doing online grading and record keeping now. If so, why? I graduated in May after sticking true to a 5 year program at college. All through school I was typically a 'coaster' but did put forth a lot of effort in a few classes: Advanced Algebra II and Spanish I/II. Those two courses kicked my butt in High School, just did NOT get it. My folks were pretty involved with my education; you know, going to conferences and asking about my scores and assignments. Motivation was the best tool for me. I never once had anything taken away due to poor grades (I learned how to restrict myself from stuff in college). I absolutely loved high school physics. For some reason, I could grasp the concepts very easily and apply the material in lab quickly. A good friend of mine, not so much, so we studied together and ate a lot of chili con queso (see, Spanish did me SOME good :rotf: ) Although I had a 4.2 gpa in high school (thanks honors classes) it took me 3 tries to get a 21 on the ACT test. My same buddy who was no good in physics simply filled in the bubbles for the ACT and got a 25 his first time around. Different strokes for different folks. College was much different for me. Maybe it was because I was in a very select program where a lot of folks were turned away, but I struggled to keep the grades above the minimum. I tried to coast through my first semester, but had a huge slap on the face. I did not 'get' how to study and put off jeepin' until my 3rd year in school. It was certainly hard learning how to set 'boring' priorities high and the fun ones low. Through college my folks were much less directly involved with my education progress, however by simply asking about it and showing genuine concern, helped motivate myself to do the best I could.

Poly would be better for a DD than trail rig because typical DD driving does not result in flex. When a leaf sprung vehicle flexes, the leaf springs twist around the rubber bushings. Poly bushings in the leaf spring would be like running front control arms that have no flex joint in the arm. I was hoping you would chime in here Pete :D Thank you for the clarification. Can you verify that the front leaf bushings are different than the rear leaf bushings?

Plus the matching drive shaft for an auto, 4x4, long bed :waving: It was one of those "commanche" searches on craigslist. I wasn't even looking for a D44... Although, it was poorly set up for a YJ SOA... luckily the factory MJ mounts were still in place. :banana: The D44 housing and tubes have been coated in POR-15 for some time. I still need to re-work the brake lines, obtain new drums and rebuild the drum assemblies before it can be called done. If a D44 ZJ bites me in the butt I will get the disk brake backing plates and build accordingly.

That be the kit! From the same folks too. I picked it up during the summer so I may have been a bit hazy on the price. Oopps.

I know that smell you are referring to. It is terrible!

$800 for a rust free MJ isn't all that terrible. That truck just wants some love :fs2:

Thank you Eagle. I was quite certain the 2wd and 4wd leaf packs shared the same bushings too.

Thanks guys Today I got the last two stickers stuck on the tailgate. I replaced the chrome/black 4.0 badge with a vinyl cut out for a smoother look and added a 'retro' style 4wd in the same. I plan on keeping with the same theme for the rest of the truck. Spence at jeepsticker.com helped me get some stickers awhile back, he went a little crazy with my order!

As I slowly make progress on the truck, I am planning my next move. I need to replace all of the leaf spring and shackle bushings on the stock leafs. I plan to use rubber whenever possible, but am aware that finding rubber for the shackles is hard if not impossible. At the front of the leaf spring, I am looking at the Moog Bushing, PN: SB371. In my search I found that these bushings are for a 4x4 while the Moog, PN: SB372 is for a 2wd. This is what I am looking at picking up: Moog Bushing, PN: SB371 But, according to rockauto.com the Moog, PN: SB372 is for the rear of the leaf spring, no variation between 2wd or 4x4. :hmm: What is up here? I would like your advice. Am I on the right track? What would you recommend for the shackle bushings?

For the time being, you can peel off the leather wrap and drive it like that. The wheel will be white, but smooth and comfortable to grip.

November 08, 2009 The new bed is lined! With fantastic weather and some spare time (recovering from sickness) I decided to prep and spray that shiny red bed with bed liner. I used the U-Pol Raptor liner kit. It comes with 4 quarts of liner, hardener, an air gun to apply it, and it it UV stable... all for about $130. I worked on prepping the surface. Generally all you would need to do is scuff, clean, and spray. This bed has several to the metal scratches and scrapes, so I sanded them down smooth, masked the bed and sprayed the areas with self-etching primer as suggested by the U-Pol instructions. Then I started with the bed liner. I was very nervous about doing this since I have never used an air gun to apply any sort of paint. Luckily it was a piece of cake. Dump 250ml of hardener into a quart of liner, shake, screw it to the gun and apply between 40-70psi of pressure. The more pressure, the finer the texture. Set the regulator to 70psi and went to town. Be sure to wear some sort of mask, the fumes are insane. I applied two cost of this stuff, and still have a 1 quart bottle left for touch ups later on down the road. After the first coat: The texture is very nice. I ran the gun at 70psi wide open and got a nicely textured, hard as a rock finish. It is just a touch more textured than plastic drop in liners. Once it was well set up, not tacky to the touch, I removed the masking to see how well I did at taping. Not half bad. Also took the opportunity to hang the tailgate and set the unit in the garage just in case it tried to rain. Next step is to POR15 the inner fender wells, install the bed rubber pieces, install my 4.0 and 4wheel Drive stickers, and run the bed wiring harness. Hope to get the rusted bed off of the truck soon so I can blast, treat, and improve the rear end. Yank the drive train, then it will go to the body shop for floor, rocker and cab corner replacements as well as the 97+ front end and doors.

Classic :clapping:

It does not look too terrible, I have looked a worse. But I would certainly check the ECU and wiring harness to it since that would be a big part of your project. Plan on replacing the water pump and power steering pump. Inspect anything that may have been jostled by the accident. At $300, you really can't go wrong.