yxmj

Take a couple of minutes and look at the 5 or 6 current posts on heat in this section.....go back a couple of pages if need be.....ever problem and every solution has been tossed on the table. :thumbsup:

82,500

I have both in 2 almost identical Riggs.....like stated above the 242 is nice in the way you can "set it and forget it" and not have to shift in and out.....a definite advantage if you have a novice driver who is unsure about when the 231 should be taken out of gear.....having the 242 surly saved a chain or 2 when the wife or one of the daughters drove..... :thumbsup:

Take a minute and read my flush instructions in this thread (second post down). http://comancheclub.com/topic/41758-no-heat-in-89-40-mj/ I had the same thing flushed the core strong flow......no heat.....I read on an XJ site that jeep cores can flow well even if the small passages that will emit most of the heat are clogged solid. After I did the flush i described above with the CLR an then the vinigar it was like night and day :thumbsup: (as long as you are positive you have a good operational thermostat)

FYI the site edited it down to fool........... :thumbsup:

My take.....your a fool....... if you think insulting the guy (who has a legitimate question) maybe he does not have the funds to run out and "Buy an answer" But go shine your truck....and look at yourself in the mirror....your a "SUPERSTAR"

Good stuff....get a tesyer and make sure your anti freeze is up to snuff......or drain it and refill it with good new stuff. . :MJ 1: .

Looking for a 3" kit for my sons XJ The price here is good (even shipped to the great white north) Anybody ever deal with them?

Yes 2 bolts and it is out....put in a 195

I have the same motor and I noticed that compared to my 4 Liters it is grumpy when it is cold......revs high....runs rough......but once warm purrs like a kitten........the rule of thumb that I have taught my wife and kids (all jeep drivers) is that jeeps are happy when all gauges are more or less at 12 o'clock.... ...I think part of the problem might be you are running cold

Yes and no....the XJ i described above had that happening.....bubbling up in the rad or with the cap on the reservoir bottle.....that was purely caused by the overheating due to lack of water pump. If your head gasket was gone it would empty the fluid by sucking it into the motor.....it would run crappy.. your oil would appear yellowy or muddy.......you would have a more noticeable exhaust fume.......and when it over heated it would be because it is dry from all the fluid going into the motor..... Is you motor right dry when it overheats??? if the answer is yes....go for the head gasket....if no......go thermostat ? water pump........ Put it this way...... it is 2 bolts and about 15 min to check/change a thermostat.....it is about 12 bolts and 45 minutes to check and change a water pump.......you have to remove the entire top end Accessories/Head/Manifolds and about 6-8 hours to change a head gasket........(if you have the tools and skill set) Start with the water pump......I would bet $$$$ that is the problem.....try testing it by taking off the hose that goes to the heater core when the motor is running....you should get a crazy stream of water....if not........................

No you should have to run 12 v to one of the outlets on the plug that goes to the resister to make it blow on high......sounds like you have a short

I use ( and most winch manufactures suggest) a deep cycle battery as my auxiliary.....OPTIMA is one brand but there are others out there.....They are usually used in boating applications. If the battery's are hooked in tandem (and are both good batteries) you should easily be able to pull yourself (or someone else) out with just a normal alternator recharging ( You might need to let the motor run and charge up if you are using the winch over and over again)

????? Didn't you just answer the question you asked??????

I think your likely candidate is your water pump Here is what a good new pump vane looks like. I bought a cherry 2000 XJ for $700 a while back…..the fellows mechanic had diagnosed (or misdiagnosed) it to have a blown head gasket…….Problem turned out to be the high mineral content of the water he was running in the coolant…..It had rotted the vane away to a Japanese throwing star….might not look bad from the top but check out that side shot…. You can also remove and test your thermostat easy…pull it out it is only 2 bolts look at it…..a stuck open stat will be clearly STUCK OPEN…a lot of people just use a pot of water on the stove ( a cooking thermometer helps) ….put the stat in the pot of water and set to high water boils at 212…your stat should obviously be closed at first and as the temp gets to 190-195 should open. A faster quicker way an old timer showed me is pull the stat…..if you can see it is not stuck open lightly run your lighter or a torch over the copper/brass colored ball…..the heat will open it....Good luck . :MJ 1: .

Don't feel bad.....on a lot of these sites guys like you feel free not to read but to just open someone's wallet....." I would like to avoid coil spacers if reasonable" MAYBE HE HAS OTHER BILLS THAT ARE A PRIORITY?????

Sorry but to be honest the best advice I can give is get rid of that jug.....http://www.summitrac...63730/overview/

I used ZJ V8 springs in the front......it took it up about 1" :dunno: And they were cheap and easy to find

Ever wonder why they quit using that "Closed" system... :doh:

Understandable......maybe try to source something like this (or if you know a welder one could be made from a junked rad and a piece of pipe) http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-63730/overview/

Just my 2 cents......why don't you toss in a rad with a cap..and a reservoir (JY Cherokee??)....toss out the pressure bottle on the fire wall and the heater bypass valve...and your good to go with no problems. :dunno:

:thumbsup:

vac line is like a low pressure air line......you do not need the original line to test it......electrical or duct tape will give you enough of an answer to send you down the right path.....patch it up and see if it gets better...if so .....now fix it

what are you thanking me for.........paying attention..... :dunno: ....... :thumbsup:

2.8 and 4L have different bell housing bolt patterns so maybe you should wait and do it all as one