Oizarod115

re-viving this thread since i just took my buckets out for some troubleshooting. took pics, these are the XJ curved seats on MJ bench brackets (or so it seems) drivers side wouldnt go back far enough, something was blocking the track... so i took the brackkets off and viola! the screws holding the brackets were blocking the track, moved those, and i can stretch out now! anyways, here's the pics. looks like the PO did quite a bit of grinding/cutting to get the buckets off their origional brackets, but the seats sit in there nice. they sit a little high in the cab, but as eagle or someone stated, the curved buckets DO sit higher than others in the cab... FYI mi 5'11" 3/4 and its not that bad, just hope i don't grow much more :brows:

the most complete lift is the http://www.Rubiconexpress.com kit... this kit comes with literally EVERYTHING you could possibly need, other than shocks. so i geuss its not THAT complete but it just needs shocks, which are personal preference anyways. http://rustysoffroad.com/ sells pretty decent springs, however alot of folks on here have had bad experiences with them, i haven't personally, but alot of people here advise against it. whatever you do, make sure to get new control arms and trackbar, brake lines, and make sure and take pictures! :cheers:

...you would HATE my truck then :brows:

An '89 should have a temp sender in the left rear corner of the head. If you don't have one -- what are you running for an engine, 'cause if it doesn't have one it's not stock. 97 TJ 4.0 but she's still renix that temp sender has been adapted into the 97 thermostat housing (or is it an 89 housing adapted... idk... but my temp sensor is in the thermostat housing.)

tera-flex disc brake conversion package for D44s... BOLT ON. http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=TF-DBK-J

psh, compression smercession... i can turn my brother's 4.0 over pulling on the serpentine with my hand :eek: (220K miles of stock, 20k miles of stock gears with 33's, 2k miles of 4.88s with 35s) its taken its toll. still runs fine, and pretty quick for 35s too. (that is our next project. its dangerously close to its end i fear.)

this is good. haha

i think it'd look better with a little bit more sloping in your cuts... kindof like the JCR styles? looks good though even how it is. where'd you pick up the steel from?\ how much?

.... :roll: mk... well, 33's is tricky. you can run 33's with a 4.5" lift if you plan on cutting the fender flares back/off. or you can lift 5-5.5"+ and not worry about cutting. though you might bend em up a little if you wheel rough enough.

if you keep the 4.0 naturally aspirated and do little bolt ons... theres probably only about 20hp to be found honestly. and lots of it is more work than its worth.

ive got clutch chatter but mine only happens when I'm in nuetral with the clutch out... if i push the clutch in theres no more chatter... :dunno:

2.5s are TANKS just like the 4.0s... ive rarely ever heard anyone complain about the lifespan or quality of the engine... just the minimal HP it puts out.. direct swap i'd probably go 2.5 for ease. then theres always v8 in a close second for ease of parts, work and reliability.

alright, so the SRT can probably stomp a miata, and a mustang, and out handle an NSX. so some of those i can agree to. porsche 911.. i don't agree on that one the 911 runs a 3somethign 0-60 and a 70.7 slalom it tops out at 194mph that truck (while its slalom is REALLY impressive.) is much slower in 0-60 5something, and top speed is only 154. but it does run a 69.something slalom (couldnt find an exact number) pretty good slalom speed. but still not going to beat the porsche. i didnt look up the others though... the numbers on that truck really are impressive though, i couldn't beleive it when i saw it ran almost a 70mph slalom. (again i wasnt trying to poop on your truck)

ive had to fill up mine (way to many times from my past tense cooling problem) and my engine doesnt have a rear temp sender... i usually just fill it up with the bottle, then take off different easy-access hoses and fill them up and re-connect them... then run it with the cap off for a little bit... (it will boil over after a while trust me) then just cap it and check back over a couple days.

ive been keepin an eye out for AMC jeep key blanks... i see plenty of chrysler ones... but my origionals are AMC.. and i want AMC keys.

tried adjusting the t-case linkage?

grab a (cheap) 3/8" extension... get out the angle grinder... and hack away until it fits into the hole or you could buy the 10mm square thing that it actually takes... but who wants to do that?

i thought he just said "duallies are stupid offroad"? or were you just proving the point ;)

si. good job man. hope to see some pics.. and see it dirty soon.

haha, i was just about to quote that and laugh just the same. :brows: yeah, Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. tells the dist when to fire and all that fun stuff... i think 9 times out of 10 ive read a tranny swap thread the truck wouldnt start and they forgot that sensor :oops: :cheers: ease swap on a scale of 1-10?

my buddy has a 92 v6 dakota 4x4 and it sits QUITE a bit taller than my MJ.. though you never know if someone has AAL-ed it previously or anything like that. but it definately sits higher than my MJ. and WAY taller than any 2wd dak. i think they came with different height springs with differnet models?

what other types of mc/boosters can be used? i though another member tried a ford fullsize van? does the WJ mc actually give more stopping power? or something similar? i would like more stopping power than i have... I'm going from 235s to 33's soon and my truck doesnt stop that great on the 235s so i know its gonna be a totalpig after the lift/tires

i think he was under the impression that the explorer main leaf was actually to short to use and wouldnt go "the distance" from the eyes. hence re-drilling to make that distance shorter/longer whatever it may need. and ive never heard anything bad EVER about JC whitney plus for 99 bucks they might not be a bad idea to try.

just like all things new. :roll:

nah, on the d/30 you can pull the inner shaft and leave the outer stub shaft and drive. its a semi-floating axle if thats the correct term. but i didnt know if you had to remove ALL the inside peices including the disconnect sleever and innermost shaft in order to drive.