Oizarod115

thats what I'm thinking but soon i gonna buy a nice amp/volt clamp for my DMM so i can test those amps and volts on alt and starter cable. COS, my ddm begin so retard and keep have issues. i got it from my college for "free"(part of tutor) edit: should bigger fuel injectors help to get easier start and smoother idle? no bigger injectors would just hurt fuel mileage and damage the catalytic converter. you can use a mustang 19Lb/hr injector for a little more efficient spray pattern (4 holes rather than 1) and it won't affect performance.

i've got buckets and built my own box, put a 10 behind the passenger seat and it goes all the way back. i think with a bigger opening a 12 would drop down inside my box.

you can also use a cherokee shackle for 1" to .5" of lowering

yeah don't the early 2.5s have injector difficulties sometimes?

KRO1000 there is something else wrong with your truck causing the engagement/disengagement issue. if the flywheel was the problem it would most likely show up as a shudder upon release or a grabby clutch or something else driveability related. bottom line your clutch WILL WORK (at least well enough to get you down the road) with a flat flywheel. so there's something else going on. if you can find a curved flywheel be sure to let us know where you bought it. eagle: would you mind takin stuff out of boxes to verify cause if the correct parts are out there i'll quit doubting and go buy them, but i know the clutch master cylinder for my truck is *obsolete* i couldn't buy it at the dealer so i doubt they carry any of the other stuff to go with it anymore.

thats kinda where i was at, if you don't know ALL the info that didn't make any sense. i gotcha now though jeepco

might need to expand on that some, maybe the O.P. understood it, but it didn't make any sense to me

where did you buy the flywheel and what clutch kit did you use and is the clutch kit convex to match the concave flywheel? (not for the sake of argument, i just want to know)

you're not gonna have much life left in the transmission but ABUSE is usually how you free them. like kicking it forwards.

not saying they didnt ever have a contour, just saying they will work without it.

and the flywheel being flat or not wouldn't change the clutch bleeding or it engaging or not. you've got something else going on. it IS possible to get bad parts new in the box. hope you get it figured out.

sorry eagle, i respect you and the FSM but i gotta say i think... its B.S. I'm convinced of it. the flywheel that came OUT of my truck was PERFECTLY FLAT verified by the machine-quality straightedge we use on heads. the one that came OUT of another jeep (actually petes 2wd GA truck) was PERFECTLY FLAT. it then got RESURFACED. and put back into my truck. guess what, my old clutch was perfectly smooth (even getting ABUSED by a dumb teenager that didn't know how to drive (me)) and my new clutch is perfectly smooth. i don't beleive it.

the 4.0L springs **SHOULD** net you an inch or so of lift. even more could be had out of a v8 ZJ (squarish body grand cherokee) the XJ front shocks will work, rear will not AFAIK.

Apparently the ZJ disks can be made to fit, but its WAY easier to use crown vic or exploder brakes (go figure) I wonder if the Lincoln Mark VII vented disks could be made to fit, they are also on a Ford 8.8. I may try to swap those onto my XJ D44 and do a write up, but I have already gone through the brakes on it, at a significant cost. Anyone price out XJ or MJ D44 drums lately? Parts stores are mighty proud of em, reason enough to switch to disks. ;) D35 brakes fit just fine on them if you're on a budget.

drove it :wavey:

in that case just back the nut off and start over. if it won't get right after that then you can trash the new seal and check that everything is ok... but i doubt 10 extra ft/lbs broke anything, probly just got it over-tight like a wheelbearing

dana 35s have a crush sleeve so i would assume that dana 44s do also, since they're very close to one another. one way to be sure is to call randy's ring&pinion tomorrow morning, VERY knowledgeable people and helpful too. http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=3311 866-631-0196

i had an odd fast idle just like this but it only went up to 1500-1750 or so, turned out to be a bad IAC

thought so thanks.

:popcorn:

thank god they discontinued the grand prix.

truckers use them still also when you're wheeling with your buddies communicating on the trail and on the ride to and from the trail

no wiring swap required if you leave the renix injection so problem solved there, and 100 bucks at HESCO will buy you a TPS adapter and then you're fixed up. (and you can get a bored throttle body like everyone else) it will bolt up, it does run, it doesn't get bad fuel mileage, it even passed emissions on my truck. but that DIDN'T MAKE IT RIGHT.

just hope you get it hemmed up

the lube requirement for the AX-15 has changed drastically over the years to include 10w30 and 75-90 i beleive the recommended fluid to be 10w30 motor oil right now pete m? are you credible on this one?