jpdocdave

^ X 1,000 I see auctions listed on CL all the time, and closing shops as well. That's the better ticket. On the other hand, I don't think you can go wrong, you aren't going to be using it for commercial/professional use. The unit is not going to take a beating.

Dang, that's how cool my truck would look with a lift. Go away, I don't need any reason to modify my truck. Seriously though, looks sweet.

is that 800 lbs all the way at the back behind the rear wheels or did you put it towards the front half of the bed? if all 800 is behind the rear wheel that's what it will look like.

I managed to see the pay per view at a friends house. I loved watching GSP shut Josh up. I'm a little leary of the pirated links though, I swear something went wrong with my computer once when I tried to watch one.

it shouldn't be hard to figure out what fuse is what. And if you are using a volt meter you can put the ground lead on the ground wire, and the positive lead on the power wire and see if you get voltage. If you don't, you need to break it down and see if you're missing power or ground by testing separately.

Have you done any testing? If your blower motor does not work at all, start with checking the fuses, then check to see if you have power and ground at the blower motor when it's turned on with the key on. There's a good chance the resistor and everything is fine, and there's power and ground at the motor, and the motor is just no good.

There are two vacuum lines at the disconnect, one for the light, and one for the actuator. It's most likely a vacuum problem, no biggy.

Nobody ever made great flares their first few tries. And they can be done just fine with a cheap tool, but it doesn't help when there's a learning curve, and a cheap tool.

My advice would be before making any decisions, or jumping in head first in any directions, hang around here a little while. Get used to the truck, look around, see what you like and don't like. Don't light the torch yet, do some learning, and then start your direction. Decide if you want to have an off roader, a street truck, a daily driver, a mud truck, or whatever. And then think about how to go about it, and ask a bunch of questions.

same

Sounds good, and welcome to the forum. :wavey:

I can tell you a couple things, first is the quality of the tool. If you bought a $25 flare kit from Idiot Zone, you will not get great results. The quality of the tool matters in this situation. Second, is the line has to be straight, and as the tool presses into the line it all has to stay straight, they like to walk to one side a lot. Third, play with the depth you start with, it has to be just right.

I'm in Beach Park, prob 45mins?

I don't think I realized you were so close, anywho, it takes time to learn how to make nice flares. Cut it off and try again.

:rotf:

I assumed that's how you bought it, and that was the story. A hacked up leaf spring suspension in the front is definitely a downgrade from the coil suspension mj's and xj's came with. Now if you wanted to make a nasty mud bogger out of it, just slap some leaf springs under it, but do a better job than that. But if you want a capable off road vehicle, I'd restore it to it's original front suspension, and build it from there. I would think the mounts are still on the unibody, and it shouldn't be that bad to put it back the way it should be.

it looks to me like box tubing welded to the unibody frame next to the tow hook brackets. And those are some narrow leaf springs, maybe from a cj?

I really hope you plan on redoing that whole front suspension, even if you're keeping the leaf springs.

Now that is just harsh. I am not on crack and I am not dreaming, my 87 renix MJ has been an amazingly reliable vehicle. Never has it left me stranded and never has it failed to start in it's 300,000+ miles. I'm not even close to being considered a mechanic, I just do it's general maintenance and it just keeps on trucking 100%. :D Now I have nothing against Ford, how could I? They revolutionized the auto industry. Just never owned one though because my renix MJ has never given me a reason to own another vehicle. Sorry, I just had to join the forums to defend my beloved Comanche. :cry: Great first post brotha, welcome aboard. Umm, Dave, you see Culsu's sig? I don't think that's a brotha, brotha. I think its another MJ sista coming out of the woodwork. And, welcome to the madness. Indeed a good first post. :cheers: Rob L. :fs2: shut up Rob :fool: :jump:

:dunce:

yer doomed.......post up pics when you bet it home. :clapping:

Now that is just harsh. I am not on crack and I am not dreaming, my 87 renix MJ has been an amazingly reliable vehicle. Never has it left me stranded and never has it failed to start in it's 300,000+ miles. I'm not even close to being considered a mechanic, I just do it's general maintenance and it just keeps on trucking 100%. :D Now I have nothing against Ford, how could I? They revolutionized the auto industry. Just never owned one though because my renix MJ has never given me a reason to own another vehicle. Sorry, I just had to join the forums to defend my beloved Comanche. :cry: Great first post brotha, welcome aboard.

my c4c reference had nothing to do with the program itself, but merely the facts about the cars that were turned in. I'm really surprised Rob that you haven't dealt with front end part problems on those, I can think of three crown vic cars off the top of my head that I've had recently with broken ball joints, or seized tie rods causing it to swerve all over the road. One being my Grandma's car. It is really all about what one person experiences though, that's the truth. Good thing the city doesn't use expeditions, and new explorers then Rob, those are way worse for the rear e brake shoes inside the rotor. The rotor is not useable by the time you get it off, and most of the time the shoes come unglued from the bracket, so a rear brake job basically doubles cuz you're replacing pads and rotors, and e brake shoes that are like your typical rear drum brakes.

ok, that's about what I was assuming. I also forgot to mention, too strong of antifreeze mix can also cause low temp.

well without a lot of information given on your vehicle, I'll tell you this. All of my renix jeeps seemed to run cool in the winter. I had one that I did everything to to make the cooling system proper, flushed, flushed heater core, new cap, new thermostats, then I even blocked the front of the radiator in winter, and after all that it ran at about 150 and I got ok heat. My mj now runs around 180 in the winter, but the heat works well and the small cab heats up way better than an xj, so I don't worry about. Also, weak compression can cause low operating temp.