64 Cheyenne

hold on man changing the ratio thats talking about $600+ i don't thank its worth it Brandon $600+ ? That's if you pay somebody to do it. I took it upon myself to learn how to do it. Guesstimate for me to do it- $250 to $300. Definitely worth learning to do. For me anyways. I'd use the broken tooth as an excuse to lowball the JY owner. A MJ 44 is still a 44, broke tooth or not.

I think your belt is too loose. Try one of these. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 0006447252 Takes out all the guess work. Is this gauge for a serpentine belt? Technically, is a serpentine belt called a "V-ribbed belt"?

Metal chunks=bad Dirty oil=OK Metallic flecks in the oil=wear, not necessarily a bad thing. Changing out old oil-priceless. BTW try less words in the search feature.IE "gear oil" instead of change or changing gear oil. Other search topics could be: differential cover, Dana 30 oil, etc. Try not to use "ing" that makes it a verb, not a subject.

I don't recall what % that tint is. I got it at HF. Probably 30%.

If it smells that hot, look for hot spots. Shouldn't be that hard to find. Brake drums, rotors, bearings etc.

I'd make sure to use permatex "ultra black" rtv sealant. (most oil & gas resistant) After sealing everything up I like to wait till the next day before filling, gives the sealant plenty of time to "cure." Don't get crazy on tightening the cover bolts.

Didn't make it...... Oh well, wouldn't have known if I didn't try. Thanks for the support! :cheers:

Dude, he aint gonna give you beer.......

I left a link to car-part.com in earlier post for stock linkage. You could post a "Wanted" in the appropriate section. Or you could buy one of these http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2x.htm

Makes me wonder why the factory didn't use a linkage set up like that. Moreover if the linkage is so simple and easy to make, why isn't there one made commercially for the thousands of XJs and MJs out there?

I did fab that linkage for AX-15 231. Far as I can tell it will work. Made the linkage. Just have to finish the truck, for real world testing results. Far too much effort for what the linkage is worth to fab vs stock.

I do have to say that I don't regret and am not ashamed of what has happened to me any more. Actually it makes me more grateful for the life I have today. If by my posting my story, someone thinks about their drinking and changes their life; then the telling of my story was worth it.

When I fixed the wiring on my 87, I chased the same kind of gremlins. Replaced the front sockets all was good. FWIW, the sockets looked, tested good for power. But they were back feeding into my turn indicators. Again, replaced the sockets, problem fixed.

Yup, that'l work. Did it to one of my MJs. Took $0 dollars, and a lot of time and effort. Crawl under the truck, check, crawl out, modify/weld, crawl back under, modify/weld............. I would gladly spend money for a stock bracket than to do it again. Suggest car-part.com http://www.car-part.com/index.htm Any linkage set up from any 90 up AX-15 equipped Cherokee will work. If you go this route make sure to get the bracket on the TC and the one on the body.

Don't forget to subtract 2* for pinion climb.

You got the linkage for the AX15..... You need the.....I think it is called a "trunnion", It's actually the part that has four bolts that bolt to the floor. Many people forget to grab this part making the assumption that it is the same between the BA10 and AX15. The BA10 part has the hole for the linkage in the middle, the AX15 part has the hole, I think towards the front. In other words the hole is off center to one end, don't remember which end. I'd suggest getting complete linkage for a AX-15, including the trunnion from a JY. BTW there are no "cables", just mechanical linkages.

Quote: maybe i can just take the whole cab off ... Um...... Your MJ is a unibody, you can't just take the cab off. Far as seats, console and doors, If the seats are black and in good shape, then maybe; otherwise I would offer them $40 bucks for the tail lights, maybe something for the seat mounts and walk away.

Don't forget to make sure the TC is full of oil (Dexron). Actually I think this should be the first thing checked.

Killed a couple six packs....... You sure that's all you did? :clapping:

I wouldn't give $250 for springs seats console Maybe $150, IMO that is still a little high. $250 if your going to leave the truck a stripped shell, except that it already is. Make sure you get your moneys worth. Remember, they couldnt care less about the truck. They know that you do. All they really care about is your $$$$

Thats a good question, Seems a little counterproductive any way you look at it for two reasons first, your replacement is from an 86 (only year of V6) Second, one from auto going into a manual. Seems that there would be many more I-6 parts, harnesses etc to pick from rather one that you might have problems with. IMO too many variables to take a chance on. Others might disagree.......

For your particular year there is no C-clip. Would I replace bearings or anything else? No Myself, I'd fix the seal, fill with oil, wait for it to break again. Or D44, 8.25, 8.8....you get the idea.

Hello Kerryfromct, First, please don't post in capitol letters. IT IS LIKE SOMEBODY IS SHOUTING AT YOU, see what I mean? Sometimes some of the guys get finicky about that, myself included. Next, here is a link on how to post pics: viewtopic.php?t=11077 Then post your question in the MJ tech section, and your on your way. BTW, Welcome

Cargo light and switch-I want Fender badges Rear bumpers, stock or otherwise Trailer hitch-I want, will pay to ship B-pillar plastics headliner I could go on, but I'm tired of typing :rotf: Somebody else want to help out.....

I would recommend plugging the vacuum line at the source for the EGR. Otherwise, :thumbsup: