64 Cheyenne

Well she didn't want to deal for her Jeep, said it was her baby. And the Kudos go to maddzz1 for the correct help, fix, diagnosis. I swapped the ignition switch, no joy. Then I started examining the fused links around the solenoid. They all looked good but looks can be deceiving, I started gently pulling on the wires with fused links and sure enough one of then was just like a rubber band. The wire inside did it's job although it was not apparent from the outside. Should have this one up and running on Monday, it still needs the pressure bottle replaced. Thanks for the help guys.

I eliminated all the relays by swapping one at a time with a known good one out of my MJ. Today I am going to replace the switch with a used one out of my spare parts, examine all the wires near or around the solenoid.

You are talking about the switch on the column aren't you? (not the key switch itself) Are you saying possibly a fused link between the battery and the solenoid. Or is there a fused link between the solenoid and the PDC? Actually, I didn't think our jeeps had fused links, do they or not?

As we all know that black interiors are not as common as other colors, why can't you paint a different colored one with black Fusion? Heck paint the whole thing (the handle) with Fusion so there isn't much noticeable color difference.

To clarify, A panels are by the WS. Vent or kick panels are on the floor. The door sill is the bottom piece of the B pillar. The other piece is the top part of the B pillar. The last part is the piece that goes under the back window.

I met this girl with an 88 XJ :brows: :brows: For the girl, not the XJ. Yeah right. I offered to trade her non-running XJ for my running Astro. :yes: Anyways, that's another story. So her XJ starts, but when you release the key it quits. Oh yeah, 88 4.0 AW4. I jumped the resistor, swapped the relays, got fuel pressure at the rail. Don't hear the fuel pump run, because I believe the fuel rail has a full charge. If I put the key switch over to start, hold it there, the motor will continue to run. I think the ignition switch on the column is the culprit, anybody concur?

This will be the fourth one I've purchased. Two on my MJs, one on my friends MJ and now his dad wants one too. I've pretty much spent $40 to 60 bucks each. The last two were about $70 to 80 shipped to 59323. So how about $80 bucks shipped? Lights or no lights? does this mean that you might have one with lights?

You know the deal..... Comanche visor wanted.......

:agree:

The big hose in front goes to the air box. I replaced mine with heater hose. The fitting on the back of the VC goes to vacuum. You need the proper grommet for your VC then plumb it to a 1/4" fitting on the intake and you should be good to go.

Possibly too large of vacuum line? Like maybe somebody put too large a line on trying to cure oil puking into the VC. My friend did this, updating his VC and vacuum lines, drilled out the fitting on the plastic VC grommet to 1/4". more is not better in this case. He replaced the grommet drilled out the hole to 3/16 runs fine. The CC needs vacuum on that line but not too much as to cause the engine to run like crap.

Yup Nope, not unless you change the input gear if needed. Yup 23 spline for your AX-15 yup If you get another TC, even one with a 21 spline input they can be changed from 21 to 23 fairly easy. I did it without ever having been inside a TC before. If you find a TC with 23 splines, keep your old TC for the 23 spline gear in it. (Keep it, sell it whatever, the gear)

"Fork," from the goat - I thought the goat has an internal set up, therefore no "fork." Shifter boot - are you talking about the one on the floor pan or the one on the console/mini console? Either way, those are interchangeable. I would post a wanted in the classifieds on this board, that is how I got mine (upper boot); $10 bucks delivered. AX-15 mount, use the one that came with the tranny, or goes to that tranny. Make sure you use 30w Synthetic for the tranny.

Smartcar? Pics? One of them little bitty things like in that Wii commercial?

I suggest reading What is the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners? at the top of the tech section. Wealth of info there. If your MJ won't run, things to check: fuel pump resistor, and crank position sensor seem to be the first and most common things to check for trouble. I'd suggest learning about MJ specific parts. Keep an eye out for them as they are not made any more and get harder to find every day. IE: turn signal lenses, trailer hitches, rear cab lights etc.....

If the air filter is soaked with oil, your crank case is running with a positive pressure. This is caused by a plugged/restricted vent line. (The line running from the back of the valve cover to the intake manifold) A crank case running with a positive pressure will try and puke oil out everywhere it can. RMS, VC gasket, air box. Myself, before fixing any oil leaks, I would make sure the crank case is running under negative pressure. Kind of makes sense, pressurize a vessel (engine) with liquid (oil) and it will try and push the liquid out any opening or weak point. Put it under neg pressure like it is supposed to be and the oil tries to stay in the block where it belongs. :smart:

Shhhhhhhhh :no: Some people get very opinionated when it comes to putting diamond plate, expanded metal and re-bar on jeeps. (not me) Hint the term "Flamed" Myself I got a little expanded metal on my 88 for speaker grills, plan on putting it on the outside of my camper cap back window so it doesn't get broke from backing into bushes or branches. Diamond plate? I don't see a lot of aesthetic value when it is under your feet. But it's your obsession, or will be, so have at what you like and welcome to the club. :wavey:

Naw, it has a pump. The oil is picked up by the pickup tube that sometimes doesn't stay in the pump when the TC is put back together. You don't necessarily have to mess with the pump, but the whole assy is removed when the input gear is installed. Could it have happened when the 23 spline was put in? Absolutely. How hot is hot? Does the fluid look or smell burned? I'd take it back to whoever fixed it before, make them fix it right.

I got these same tires last spring (put on the 88), put about 3k mi on them no complaints. They are worlds different than the baldies (AT tread) that were on the truck when I got it. Makes me love snow and mud. :banana: Mounted the tires in my friends shop $0 dollars. Balanced each tire with 6oz Airsoft BBs. ($20 +/- total all five) Truck drives nice, no vibes, happy with price and performance.

My 88 has a factory slider swapped in, uses a factory rubber gasket. My friend has an 86, his slider is aftermarket, has a faux look to the metal trim. Looks like a rubber gasket, but no rubber gasket used. Gonna guess on this, rubber gasket-factory. No gasket-aftermarket.

Some will say it should be left to a professional. Myself, I say spend the $20 for sealant do it yourself. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19487

Meaning did you cause a vacuum leak that affects heater door operation? I also have heater issues (low output temp). Today I'm going to flush the cooling system and try to back flush the heater core. Did this last weekend to the GFs XJ, it helped but still wasn't what was expected in terms of heater output. Outside temps were around 0* so I kind of have to take that in to account, my best guess is clogged heater cores on my MJ and the GFs XJ.

Me: Hey Momma....... :brows: Her: :shake: Me: :chillin: Her: :banana: :banana: :banana: Me: Zzzzzzzzz..............

Done

grinned and said