64 Cheyenne

96 has that funky slip joint boot thingy on the end of the TC. Different length output bearing retainer housing. = shortened driveshaft. That would work with the right DS off the 96 up.

I've heard of running the hose into a catch bottle, empty as needed. To me, actions like this are the beginning demise of that particular MJ. If a person doesn't fix it right, what is going to get skimped on next? I treat my MJs with a lot of love and care, I doubt I'll get the opportunity to buy many more of them. Think about when somebody who only for the sake of making a buck, says "those are getting rare, hard to find, Gotta have this much more$ because of that". MJs are special, I'm proud to own 2 that I'll never sell.

You should have seen my 275lb 6'5" friend squeeze into my MJ with rocker seats :rotf: I would be interested in brackets that mount the seats lower.

96 has that funky slip joint boot thingy on the end of the TC. Different length output bearing retainer housing.

Hissing means pancake has a leak, meaning losing vacuum. Good excuse for the upgrade.

And the reason you can't use the 231 from behind the AX-15 is? Different rear outputs right? My suggestion, swap in a pre-96, 23 tooth input, TC with the correct output, then your stock DS will work. Should be fairly easy to find, maybe even put your current TC as part trade. I know this is a controversial issue, but on my 87 conversion I have the 2wd cross member under my AX-15.

Every time I read about this and or a leaking rear seal I kick myself in the @$$ for not taking pics. Many say to upgrade to the newer baffle style valve cover, a person can, but there is an easier way. First get a breather for an HO engine(has a larger hose size), remove valve cover, remove towers and clean (you'll see what I mean by towers with the VC off). Drill a 3/8" hole midway up on both towers. Here is the tricky part, Just kidding do as I describe and you won't have any problems.Drill 3/16" hole in the HO breather orifice, larger is not better here. silicone (don't get ugly with the silicone, it is to seal, not hold in place) the HO breather into the VC without a grommet. then put 1 pop rivet in it on each side to keep it in place. Next, remove and replace the hose nipple on the intake (with the next larger size)Not sure but I think it is 3/8 pipe to 1/4 " hose. Reinstall valve cover. You will need 1/4" hose from the nipple then a piece of 1/2" hose? to join the 1/4'' to the HO breather. Mine and a few of my friends are this way now and all airboxes are bone dry. Point to mention, if a rear seal is leaking, and the airbox is full of oil, fix the VC first. Might even stop the seal leak, as the crankcase won't be under pressure anymore.

:agree: Low beams are "on" more of the time than high beams. Other than that, shot gun a new bulb in, check for voltage at the plug while you are there. Or vise versa.

How much did you get for it?

As someone said before, suggest drain holes.

PM sent

Suggest you get all linkages, brackets, and bolts that you can. I'm thinking you might need the correct TC linkages from that setup, don't forget the bracket on the body side. If you can get the Xmember and all the clutch stuff even better. If a business/counterperson can't treat me with the respect that I deserve as a customer, then I'll take my money elsewhere. That is if I can find what I need elsewhere, if not .......eat crow, grease,*&&%$#@#% :fs1:

Still the right side of the motor.

Common sense, you just can't buy. Use your head first then your wallet.

FYI, that's the right side of the motor/engine compartment. Everything is from the drivers seat looking forward IE:the starter is on the right side.

20-24 MPG, makes me wish. My opinion, don't fix it if it aint broke. Unless you just need to spend money on it.

Easy fix with a BFH, not much "clearance" is needed.

It's doable, but major. Are you saying the motors you have are 4.0 HO? Are you wanting to use the HO engine controls? Unless/until you have a complete HO XJ for parts, I wouldn't do it. there are so many parts needed and things to be done, that would have to come from a complete donor, that without it it it would be hard to complete. Some things needed, wiring harness, cooling, exhaust. Things to be done, clearance the firewall (BFH), radiator core support will need to be rebuilt for the 4.0 radiator. Suggestions, keep the Jasper, sell the other, get a complete HO donor for parts. then go for it! PS: sentence breaks like commas help to understand what you are asking, helps us help you better.

Wiring and relays aren't hard to work with, check this out. I thought it was so cool I bookmarked it. http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

I thought long beds were only made in 86 with a v6. :dunno:

Short answer, yes. Both windshields are the same. Only difference isn't really a "seal" but a "trim" metal vs rubber. To use the rubber one you might have issues with the "nubs" that held the chrome in place, some say you have to remove them others say you don't. When you put the glass in, for the rubber one you put it in with the glass (both use the same urethane sealer) when using the chrome, it goes on after the glass is installed.

Oh crap, I'm late.....

RE: all the above They aren't building MJs anymore, keep the dream alive, fix it.

Take the spring clip off, put a spot of oil on the shaft, let sit a while to loosen up. Hold the wheel with the motor hanging, have your helper give the shaft a little kiss with a hammer, pull the wheel off. Watch your toes if the motor hits the floor. $16 bucks saved for trying, and succeeding :clapping: . I don't know if it is worth it or not but the last donor motor I put in sounded iffy, so I squirted a little spray lube into both ends. Works like a charm. Don't use WD-40, not really oil and it's too light weight. FWIW, the old motor gave up when it was -12* go figure.......

??? Kids!......... Just like mine, never listen.......