64 Cheyenne

Run a bead down the flat and grind again, or did you not check switch operation before install, then if so IDK. OR I saved the swing pedals off of a 89 XJ, the clutch safety switch might be a push/closed contact. It has 2 switches, one for the clutch and one for the brake, both push button styles. Interesting, I'll look tomorrow. Take pics if needed.

What about if it has a cab light, reason is, that is the switch I have for my rear cab light. Or are you talking about the fog one? Or what about if it has factory fogs, roll bar, and rear cab light?

Are you suggesting that you might have a line on a SWB one :brows: Myself, too far away to be interested, others might though (closer).

I had an elusive "clunk", turned out to be a loose trackbar to frame mount. My fix was to tighten the bolts, then tackweld the bracket to the frame....clunk is now gone. The sound was hard to find, I found it from the telltale marks around the mounting mounts that can be seen from looking up on the underside of the frame.

OK I'll take a shot at describing location of vent hole. Looking at the pinion from the rear, at about the 1:00 o'clock position, top of flat spot on strengthening web. It will not be on the rounded part of the pumkin or in the axle tube.

Sounds like a bad blower motor. Suggest pulling it from the firewall side, hotwire it, see how it runs and spins.

Don't believe there is a spring. The clutch returns to top of its travel from the spring in pressure plate via hyd fluid.

:agree:

I think the thread is a 5/16 NF something or other, but on my 88, I need three different wrenches to bleed the brakes :dunno: and or a vice grips. Point is, pretty sure of the NF being 5/16 but the size of the nut fitting could vary. can't you just use your old fittings with new steel line? Unless the fitting is messed up/stripped they are reusable.

"search" is your friend, no matter how inadequate it seems at times. If I was to take a guess at the possible problem I'd say to first check your grounds, including the one behind the left tail light, then I would test front turn signal sockets, they are notorious for going bad on our trucks. I believe there is a write up on it in the DIY section on replacing these.

To make sure there is no misunderstanding, your/we are talking about the part that bolts to the floor. They don't make them anymore, any bench bracket can be made to work with buckets. I suggest saving them, might (probably will) be worth something to somebody someday. Be possible swap material.

Myself, I wouldn't be picky about brackets being from a bench or bucket. It's been a long time since I even saw another MJ for parts.... One opportunity I had for spare brackets (from a bench) I passed up, now I wish I would have grabbed them just because they are "one of those parts" that are MJ specific. Suggest grabbing ANY MJ seat brackets before you have to pay someone $100+. (seen on the board here already)

Make sure the gasket that runs across top of the cowl sealing body to hood is in good shape. Its supposed to keep water out of the engine compartment.

I don't understand what your asking, how to mount it or how to wire it? If your talking about how to mount it, then I'm sure we'll learn from your pics. If your talking about wiring it, from what I understand the main issue is the amperage draw on fan start up, meaning you need an HD relay or one the can handle the amperage draw. I've heard some people say that a regular 30A relay is OK, others say you need larger. Me, I'd try 30s because they are plentiful and free for me. When I see relays and their pigtails in my local JY I cut a few cause I never know what I might want to use them for, examples:fans, fog lights etc. Another issue is how/where you are going to trigger the relay from and the switch you use , IMO the best place is the port in the Tstat housing that the HOs use, reason is because it turns the fan on when the engine gets hot, not till the whole system (radiator, engine) is hot like using the switch that is located is on the bottom left of the radiator. I'm sure there could be debate on the how or where of this location. I think the reason this subject is not hot is because the general consensus is that an XJ/MJs cooling system is usually marginal at best, meaning their mechanical fan is the best most economical, efficient fan to run, with electric fans from newer HOs or AC equipped as aux and back up to supplement the stock mechanical fan. Here is a link that has about all you could want to ask about wiring a relay. http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

I'm getting ready to do a n HO conversion with a motor that I'm building from scratch (my 1st one) money, time, parts, more money,and more time, I could have easily bought a reman engine for all I've got into this one. My suggestion is to find a cheap complete wrecked XJ for all the parts you'll ever need. So far I've bought 2, an 89 (paid $175 complete and runs like a top) whose motor went into the Chief last month, and a 95 XJ with AX-15 for $200. Both of these vehicles paid for themselves over and over again. Nice thing about XJs, they feed my MJs all the parts they'll ever need. Cheap too.

Nooooooo Timmmmmy........ don't sell it! Hang out here long enough (really not very long) and you'll be able to do and understand what you want, and is possible for you and your truck while keeping within constraints of time and budget. :yes:

DIY done viewtopic.php?f=9&t=32365 I would not use the multi tool to get out a good WS, only thing I would use is a bicycle cable as in my back window DIY.

My front WS was cracked across the A line (horizontal line you look through the most). I have XJ buckets that sit high so the crack was definitely in my line of sight. Tools used: Cotter pin tool Drill HF multi tool Utility knife, filet knife Caulking gun Saw horses Materials: Replacement glass Rubber garnish Urethane sealant Primer Rags Rubbing alcohol Brake cleaner Removed the visor, wipers and exterior trim. I have a trim tool, and wouldn't you know I couldn't find it, so I used this to remove the trim. (Cotter pin removal tool) Trim is for sale in the classified section. Released the clips like this. Removed the interior vent cowl with a driver bit on a flexible shaft. 3 screws on the top by the WS and 2 inside the glove box. Cut the gasket from the inside with this. When using the multi tool, you have to keep the blade moving back and forth so as to not cut in the same spot too long. The blade moves so fast, it will start smoking and burn the area you are cutting if you move it too slow. If you don't have access to a multi tool the WS can be removed like I did in my rear window replacement DIY viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19487 Because of the size of the tool, I could only cut the top and down both sides. Then I finished the top corners and bottom with these. You can see in the last photo the cowl piece was still in place, it came out with the glass. Next I cleaned up the window channel like this. A few notes about cleaning the window channel. It does not have to be cleaned down to bare metal. The multi tool worked very well because it left a smooth even surface. You just want to be sure not to leave any "feathers or slivers" that will cause an area that is not adhered by the new sealant. Cleaned then primed. I like to clean with rubbing alcohol because it is cheap, doesn't leave residue, and isn't as volatile as thinner which can harm paint and evaporates off too fast. Read on the board about the nubs for the chrome trim needing to be cut off in order to use the rubber garnish. I left mine in place no problems. The little square things are setting blocks, don't loose them they keep the glass centered in the window channel. Usually they are still in place from when the glass was originally installed. Bought my front WS with rubber garnish from Carquest delivered to my local store for $104. I opened the box, inspected the glass before I left the store. My friend told me I should do this, can anybody guess why? Then I laid the WS on 2 padded saw horses and installed the garnish to the glass. Suggest sticking the corners and ends first so the gasket stays even all around. Word of caution, the rubber gasket has "sticky" to hold it to the glass. If you put a rubber gasket on, it makes installation easier and you'll see what I mean. Here is where I would have changed things. I've probably changed 10 WSs in my life which makes me no expert by far. Each window has it's own circumstances. Some I've put the sealant on the glass, others in the channel. The other Jeep glass that I did with metal trim, I put the sealant on the glass. That is what I did here, were I to do it again, I would have put the sealant in the channel. Sealant: The channel is 3/4" deep, the glass is 1/4" thick, do the math. The sealant needs to be laid in the channel in 1 single bead, 1/2" inch thick +/-, best way I've found is to cut the end off the tube fat as you can. Lay the sealant in the channel, make sure the setting blocks are in place, (BTW they should be about 1/4" in case you lost yours, I made some out of a piece of lath) Get a friend to help you "set" the glass in place, Caution, you don't want to squish the sealant out all over the place. You need it to stay "fat" or the metal/rubber trim won't sit proper. Inspect your work,I use a flashlight to look make sure I don't have missed spots. Just realized I didn't take a pic of the sealant. The sealant has to be laid in a 1/2" bead here about about 1/4" inch from the inside edge. Finished. Sealant, I used a roofing grade of urethane, about 1/4 the cost of the automotive stuff. I know opinions will say .....But I've roofed 20+ years and as hot and severe environment a roof gets as long as it's urethane and not silicone(junk) it will be fine. Most glass installers will say 1 tube to 1 window for average sized glass, but when your 100+ mi from anywhere and the stores that are near aren't open on Sunday, I suggest buying 2 tubes, 13 to 20 dollars at the parts store. Is doing this yourself cost effective? Not really. I think in Billings the glass could have been replaced for about $160 bucks. For me that would have been fuel, food, time and the window. Doing it myself, tools I have, time I like to spend and because I can. Priceless

:agree:

Got a brand new windshield with rubber garnish in the shop for the Chief. Plan on updating it's build page and doing a full WS replacement DIY this weekend. Many people say, only let the pros do it, and I agree, especially if you have any doubts about your skills, but if you are careful it can be done with excellent results.

If this is happening when the engine is running, I would check make sure you have enough CC venting to the intake. The CC should run with a negative pressure provided by a fully functioning vent line. When the vent that leads to vacuum on the intake is plugged it can lead to many misdiagnoses IE: leaking rear main, front seal, valve cover gasket,oil puking into the air cleaner box. When the vent is plugged it puts the CC into positive pressure causing problems like "my filler cap still leaks oil".

Wired mine up, no problems.

After all that effort, why not just remove the radiator hoses and flush the block with a garden hose?

Yup. Just make sure you grab ALL the linkages and brackets that go with it, saves on later parts hunting trips.

Easiest swap would be from a XJ and an auto. Cherokees are pretty much identical to MJs from the doors forward and many parts interchange. If you search 88 Cherokee transmission and transfercase you might find what you need or possibly post in the wanted and a board member might have what you need. And welcome to CC