64 Cheyenne

Good point, didn't think about that, don't think that is something I'm going to worry about till I'm running locked 44s and 35s or better though. Next level of wheeling, but I'll keep it in mind. Actually never thought about it before. Plans for the 87 are lunchbox 30 and 33s should be good with greasables.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-Harness ... es&vxp=mtr Is one, there are many out there depending on how much time, effort and cash you're willing to spend.

Yeah on the ones that are greaseable (lot of them are sealed), they don't have a conventional "zert" fitting, they have a "pocket" that the needle fits into. Actually that fitting is kind of "low profile" if you'd like to call it that, so it can fit in the double cardon or yoke without making contact. I really dislike sealed joints and fittings, the local parts guy swears they are better (I think to make more $$), me I don't think anything that lets you know it needs attention by failure (from lack of serviceability) is a good product. I always spend the money for serviceable parts when I can.

:agree: My friend bought a ZJ for cheap, the double cardan let go at highway speed from lack of maintenance. Impressive....

Doesn't matter what brand the sealed beams are if there is not adequate amperage getting to them. I used this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-Harness ... es&vxp=mtr on the Chief which had old crappy stock dim bulbs, the improvement was dramatic. It has such a good improvement that I have decided to not replace the headlights at this time. When one does burn out then I plan on replacing them with Silverstars. BTW I was extremely happy with the price and quality of this kit as it being an import.

Make sure your leak is not being made worse by an over pressured crank case. Meaning check your air box for oil. If the air box is full of oil, then the vent line is clogged or restricted. This causes the CC to be in an overpressure state, oil will then try to force its way out wherever it can eg: rear seal, VC, airbox etc. You might think you have a major rear seal or VC gasket leak and maybe you do, but because of overpressure, oil just pours out...

The extra hole is a keeper hole. It goes nowhere, no other end so putting a plug or a screw in it does zip. It's just there to orient the MAP line and keep it in place. You can easily put some RTV on it to hold it in better. I'm pretty sure that's what I said...

Doesn't go anywhere, it's a blind hole. I put a screw in mine, even though it doesn't do anything for it but to plug the hole. You can pull the rubber piece out of the TB and see what I mean.

Is the clutch master cylinder full?

Myself, I would remove the Neg cable from the battery (with the motor running) if it dies, then I would remove the alternator take it to NAPA, Carquest, etc have it tested. My first guess would be a bad alt. I definitely wouldn't rule out the MC problem though. Suggest getting a handle on that ASAP to prevent further electrical damage. Batteries can read a full charge with a multimeter, but not have enough amps in them to do their job. To test a battery a load tester is really the only way to go. A load tester puts a massive amperage draw on a battery for a short amount of time then measures amps/volts left. When a load test is done on a battery, it is done a few times, not just once, this allows a person to see if the battery is/can have recovery time with juice (electricity) left in it. After rereading I see you have 14.7V charging, you could still be getting 14V out of your alternator, but no amps. I'd still do the down and dirty, pull the neg cable. Go from there.

even a 4.0 in place of the 4 banger? It's a bolt up... But you have to change everything else to support it IE: wiring harness computer etc. Suggest not even attempting without a donor vehicle to work with, and to pull all the rest of the parts you will need.

If you didn't blow it with 24 years of doing it, why now? Myself, I'd always go to the CPS first, seems like the weakest link in the chain to me. Most instances of trouble spot and needing replacement, so what are the odds :dunno: When I have to crank with "no start" I disconnect the coil wire and ground it. I believe the problem comes when you don't ground the coil wire, mega secondary voltage with nowhere to go is bad, or you could just unplug the coil from the harness at the plug rendering the coil inoperative.

Sounds like the yoke could have had a little play on the pinion, should have needed a puller to get it off. That is the reason the new one went on with difficulty, the splines were probably worn. Pinion bearing preload Too loose-bad, Pinion could walk around on the ring gear. Too tight and your pinion bearing bearings burn up-IMHO bad, but not as bad. I know it is after the fact, but you should have marked the pinion nut and reinstalled with the same amount of turns and maybe just a tad more. Best way I know of without pulling the axle, carrier, pinion and redoing the crush sleeve. It's all together, suggest you just keep an eye on it for a while, make sure the pinion bearings aren't too tight and getting hot. Quote: You said it turns fine all the end play is gone. Then I think you should be OK, like I said keep an eye on it for a while. If it don't burn up in a thousand miles it is probably good for the long haul.

Take an inspection mirror and look on the other side. And you could just remove the valve, but what a PIA trying to get the heater working when the weather gets cold, go figure... :dunno: Me, unless I had a garage, I'd push the actuating arm, see if it works then leave it till spring.

Look at the underside of the bell shaped actuator, there is an "arm" that moves to open the valve. Try to turn heat on see if this valve moves. On my old 86 2.5 I used to just push it with a screwdriver to get heat, wasn't worth the time to tear apart. Worse case scenario, could be a plugged heater core.

:agree: 3M Name brand in adhesives-they have a good kit.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... -Rings.htm

Lots of good torque specs here: http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx ... L-150ci-S4

Possibly, but don't forget the ground behind the L/tail light or front turn signal sockets being corroded allowing juice to feed through them.

probably windshield adhesive. Try a utility knife to separate next to the WS.

Our Jeeps have a lot of unused plugs that go to uninstalled options like fog lights. This makes for plug and play things like clocks etc. If it aint broke, don't break it. Here is a good site for Renix diagnosis http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Sounds like bad front sockets, common problem. Easy to fix, replace. Solved my front turn signal gremlins.

don't think the motor has anything to do with the delay. The delay is controlled by the box under the bash. Sorry no pics. Many times when a persons delay/wipers quit working the wipers can be made to work by taking the control box out of the system. You can unplug, remove, put both plugs back together and the wipers will work although with no delay. suggest replacing the delay box/unit.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Wiper.htm

I'm far from "knowing about AC systems", what I do know is that if your system has no refrigerant in it, it went somewhere (leaked out?) My friend did exactly what the OP did, spent money, then more money, then bought a evacuation pump and manifolds. I told him to "pump it down" see if it holds vacuum, well he had no patience, pumped it down and put more refrigerant/$$$ into it. He did not make sure it would hold vacuum, if it won't hold vacuum, it won't hold pressure either. There is a lot of info out there on how to fix your system, far from just putting a "few cans in it" see if it will hold.... If the system is not evacuated properly, the water in it (there will be water in it) will turn to ice as it tries to pass through the expansion valve orifice which then plugs up and will not work. My suggestion is if you don't have the proper tools, evacuation pump and manifolds, let someone else do it. And now to irritate others, it's not one of the black arts or magic. Spend money on what you need, research on how to get it done and have at it. Some people run dyed diesel in their personal truck, remove their catalytic converters, and others work on their own AC systems... Remember, what your doing can/might have moral, legal, and ethical issues, be prepared.