Pete M

I bought one of the cheaper whole assemblies on ebay and it fit well and is still working fine a year later

hmmm... interesting. I gotta imagine that's related, but we'll see. thanks for the heads up

have you bled the system? usually that drip is engine oil (from the RMS, valve cover, oil filter adapter, etc), so it's important to confirm if yours is brake fluid.

essentially we filled up our allotted space on the server, which shouldn't be happening. to temporarily fix that we've bumped it to the next payment level while we work to fix the various reasons why we got here. should run great in the meantime. the most obvious problem is the specific software that is supposed to auto-shrink images has stopped doing its job. don't yet know what the fix is, but Big_Mark is doing his best to poke around in the ones and zeros. further updates as events warrant

I've got a collection of photos snagged from the internet, but haven't made one of my own yet. I'd wager there are blueprints online somewhere on how to make a sturdy bench and then you can mod it to accept the gate.

is it leaking brake fluid or engine oil from the bellhousing?

treat the J-bolts like they are the most fragile things on the planet. clean the threads thoroughly and apply pb blaster ahead of time. I snapped one on a rust free truck.

this harness was made explicitly for helping the stock headlights give their full potential worth every penny! (also prevents your headlight switch from catching fire!)

man those are some beefy knuckles!

mine fit fine. now's the time to also order a strap kit with bolts as they like to break from rust. and probably wouldn't hurt to get a new pump with sender assembly too. oh, and be prepared to get some rubber hose if you have to slice your fill hose apart to drop the tank because the clamps froze up. factory has a slight kink to it, but I'm told straight can work fine. oh, and replace any rubber fuel line too. be sure to use only stainless hose clamps. get it all done at once.

congrats! looks like a solid truck

happy 2026! I've got high hopes for this year

is it leaking from the master?

in theory, yes. but the fuse block should be a high priority at this point. it's only going to get worse. be sure to get a block from an automatic XJ so you can be sure it hasn't happened to that replacement block already.

it's certainly annoying but the site mostly stable so this is going to need to wait until after the new year. honestly, we need an IT person.

not really, no. it honestly does anything a big phone does, but I much prefer my laptop/mouse (and the 32" tv that's my second screen) over any phone for using the internet, so the annoyances of the tiny phone are limited mostly to correcting voice-to-text on a teeny keyboard with my giant fingers.

let me introduce you to my cellphone. lol. usually I'm using my laptop, but not always.

chance are you're going to need to pull the box to repair. do you have a manual transmission?

swapped out a bad axle shaft in Breanne's truck with a junkyard unit I pulled the other day. holy cow is that an easy, straightforward job when the Jeeps are rust free!!!

if it was low enough, it might have sucked fluid in as it cooled.

be aware that there's a change in seatbelt shape (the metal ends that plug in) 84-87 and 88+. they are not interchangeable

hmmm... we may be running low on memory again. I'll look into it.

yup, I would do a quick swap between the turn flasher and the hazard flasher to see what happens. probably not the issue, but easy enough to eliminate as a possibility.

if the lights get power when the switch is engaged, it feels to me like the switch would be fine. is there any change in behavior on either side if the headlights are switched on? how about if the brake pedal is depressed?

I have noticed that at times. but most other times it's ok.