Pete M

if this doesn't, work I'm cutting out the rear part of the gasket and just making my own out of gasket maker.

is this what you're talking about? <iframe width="800" height="475" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XdSgWt1Qi5Q" title="" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>

the url doesn't show up.

it's like the perfect daily driver

yeah, so the problem area doesn't fit very snug to the engine. I think that's the issue. there's too much rubber and the pan is kinking it out of whack. but I guess we'll see if I can make it work. RMS is done and the pan is installed. now to let the sealant cure...

also, also, if you use a reusable rubber oil pan gasket, take great care to make sure the rear most arch is properly located. it likes to scoot around because it doesn't fit very snug to the engine. be sure to let the sealant cure before testing out your efforts by firing up the engine. oh, and I bought studs for the rearmost bigger bolts so as to help with initial alignment.

more tips: -have a spare new RMS on hand. if you hurt the new upper in any way shape or form, abandon it for a new new one. -I use a smearing of petroleum jelly to aid in inserting the new one. other things can be used here too, but the lesson is that lube is important. -putting in the new one sucks. put the new one up against the crank and fiddle it in to get it started. then ya gotta push the opposite end with one hand while simultaneously pushing the middle of the seal against the crank with the other hand to get the force of your first hand to translate into a force pushing the seal into the hole. -wear goggles.

on the topic, I just now successfully freed up the upper half using a 3# sledge and maybe 10" of a 3' bar of 1/4" brass I picked up at my local ACE hardware for 10 bucks. I whittled the end a bit to fit and drilled a "nail set" cup into the end (that may or may not have helped). the dang thing started bending after a couple good whacks, but I bent it back straight and 2 more whacks and the seal came free.

anyone shared an OKGO video yet? their music isn't anything to write home about, but their 1-shot videos are quite impressive.

still rare and cool though

I assumed it was an aftermarket version.

1 of 1 indeed. I always found it odd when owners apply a sticker/emblem from a completely different vehicle (unless it was done as a joke). but I guess they just really liked the Sahara wranglers?

for 400 bucks, I'd wager the only 2 options are it's already sold, or it never existed.

keep in mind that 84-87 AMC belts don't click into 88+ chrysler belts, so you'll need the complete set of one or the other.

pan bolts (1/4-20): 7 ft.lb pan bolts (5/16-18): 11 ft.lb but the rubber gasket isn't the old cork gaskets and has torque limiter washers embedded in it and I'm not sure if that affects things.

so it leaked even worse than before so I dropped the pan yet again to change the RMS and was greeted with yet another damaged gasket with multiple cuts in it. at this point I'm thinking the aftermarket oil pan is crushing the rubber until it splits.

h

not only is it not available, youtube won't tell me what channel it was on.

yup, seems that way. from my searches MWB seems to be the sport bar.

if you wanted to, you could scoot the hood forward a bit. it's kinda a pain though.

TAILGATE STYLE #2?

time for an upgrade to a full gauge cluster. be super DUPER careful when messing with the oil pressure switch stuff. they like to snap right off.

I imagine it can be hard to take a day off with those rocky mountain winters lookin' over your shoulder. looks great!

Jesse, you're an absolute inspiration. keep up the positive vibes!