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Pete M

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Everything posted by Pete M

  1. yeah, yeah, I've been meaning to get another big shirt order together, just been busy. I don't have anything like that on hand.
  2. brilliant me, I drove over there (it's stored at my grandma's house) with the 13mm wrench, and only the 13mm wrench, only to find the tensioner pulley needs a 15. :fool: I was soooo sure it was a 13. :doh: Sun or Mon I'll be going back with more tools. I have no problems dumping the AC on it if it comes down to that. doesn't work anyway. :( plus winter's coming. :D plenty of that gen van in the pull-a-parts. so you're saying this is a self-curing problem? :brows:
  3. so I'm on the cusp of parking the Dakota for the winter and figured the easiest vehicle to get to DD status (not that I have a job or anything that I go to daily) was the ol' 97 caravan since really the only issue was the stalling thing and that should be easy enough to tackle. today I drop in a battery (been parked for a few months), turn the key and she starts right up. success! or so I thought. a few seconds after ignition, smoke starts billowing out of the engine bay. some more investigation indicates that it's coming from the AC compressor pulley. after letting everything cool down, I try again and get the same result. a few secs after it fires up, the smoke starts. AC clutch issue? does the same thing if the AC is turned on.
  4. What jeepco means is: welcome to the club! :waving: sounds like you've got one heck of an ambitious plan. if you're thinking of a full modernization of your MJ, a 97+ XJ will be a much smoother install (though there are some hiccups so be sure to read the couple conversion threads that are here in the projects forums) than a ZJ. MJs and XJs are very similar, but ZJs are very different. also, specific tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more guys will see it, and then they'll be in the database for future members to find. This forum is more for sharing updates on your project's progress. :thumbsup:
  5. XJ driveshafts will be about 12" shorter than an shortbed MJ with the same drivetrain. and I don't have any numbers on it, but it very well could be the sealed t-case that's causing the discrepancy.
  6. alright, how about 10pm on Sunday? :brows:
  7. off the top of my head, you'll need the 4.0 motor mounts, exhaust, and radiator related stuff.
  8. which is fixed by wrapping the back end with plastic and duct taping the crap outta it. :D (there are a plethora of other ways to cap the back end too) If he swapped in the TJ unit first, then he'd have nothing to worry about. TJs and late model XJs got a sealed rear output (which is not a SYE, just a sealed yoke)
  9. I thought the computers were different, 2.5 to 4.0. or does that count as part of the "engine bay harness"?
  10. the axles themselves are directly interchangeable, but there were some subtle brake changes over the years. what specifically are you looking for?
  11. with that much lift and having the 242 thrown into the mix makes me hesitant to say yes. that's a good chunk of money to wager on a guess, even if it is an educated guess.
  12. you tested the tps yet? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12260
  13. Pete M

    chain saws...

    been way too distracted. :( maybe next week if my life calms down a bit.
  14. I'm thinking we might have a better chance on a sunday. :dunno: but I'll be sure to check in 15 mins from now. :yes:
  15. neither of those would happen to have been rob, would they? :D
  16. I experience that occasionally, but not recently. :dunno:
  17. getting a driveshaft extended can be tricky and expensive. generally it is better to have one cut down. since u-joints are reasonably standardized, you should just need a shaft from a small truck (longer than you need of course) and get that cut down. 4wd XJ shafts will be way too short. what happened to your old d-shaft? are you swapping in the 231 in place of the 242?
  18. brights are engaged by a long metal rod that goes from the switch you touch down to the actual switch mounted on the steering column down towards the base. it might be that it's simple out of alignment. check to see if the blower motor resistor pack is still working. it's located above the passengers feet in the hvac housing behind a small door and is accessed by a couple of like 8mm screws. have you tried replacing the loud relay? do you have a manual trans?
  19. don't we all. :yes: I'd probably go with the faded stripe. :thumbsup:
  20. any time and every time you need a proverbial hand, I'm here for ya man. :cheers: that's what friends are for. anything left over is for you to set aside for a trip up into the hills. I'm serious. you need a day off. get out there and climb the rocks and smell the pines. :thumbsup:
  21. depends on where you put the perches. and there's no need to remove the current perches. they can stay right where there are when you weld new ones on top.
  22. you might want to start breaking these topics up into their own threads so it's all less confusing. :thumbsup: and that charcoal canister is somewhat important. the tank vents excess pressure through it and the charcoal filters out the gasoline. then, when the engine is running, ti sucks the trapped gasoline into the engine. some who have removed it have reported a gasoline smell emitting from the truck.
  23. what gears are you going with? upgrading the front u-joints?
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