Pete M

I built almost everything on my 88 myself with a cheap 4" angle grinder and a drill. then paid someone to do the welding. where there's a will, there's a way. :thumbsup:

don't forget, it must be from an Explorer or Mountaineer. and pay extra attention to the ratio and have a plan for matching the front axle. try hard to get the metric bolts that hold the u-joint adapter to the flange. if you can't, they are available at your ford dealer. don't even try something available at a hardware store. they aren't strong enough. you'll need U-bolts too. and I think u-bolt plates from the explorer are necessary. can't remember if the MJ plate can be reused or not since the 8.8 has a larger diameter. you'll also need a plan for shock mounts. some good pointers--> http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

x2 :waving: welcome back

if you're continuing the "open" swap, you just need to run heater lines from the thermostat to the heater box and back again. no need to keep the vacuum operated switch. :thumbsup:

plus the wheel spacers will balance out the amount of tire that sticks out (making it match the front tires).

that might be a first. guys have put them on crooked and even upside down, but I don't remember anyone putting it on the wrong side of the glass. :hmm: I'll send another out when I get back in town next week. :thumbsup:

my 83 Z-28 has 190. :D the seats in a KJ SUCK. and whose idea was it to put the window switches in the center console?! I just figured since we were all going to argue over semantics/details and nitpick each others' post ad-nauseum, I'd throw my hat into the ring. :dunno:

got a photo of it?

I remember one of our members had a rust hole in the cowl, accessible from up top.

dunno. :dunno: you should be able to. I can using my sister's phone. might want to ask in the pub to see who has an i phone and can help troubleshoot.

got access to an inferred thermometer? those can diagnose most cooling issues in seconds. :D

the common word filter "should" be turned off. :dunno: lord only knows what all went wrong with the latest update. might be that the search doesn't recognize the period. 3 letters is the shortest word you can hunt for.

Fixed it for ya. You didn't get it did you? Who cares about the chics, we want pics of the trucks! :rotf:

yeah, "convenient". and Drs think it's convenient that the hospital has bandaids. :D

one winter I had to stab at the diverter with a screwdriver to get it moving. it was just stuck.

my thought... wiring makes my head explode. :headpop:

got photos? a couple guys have had success with plating the frame.

checked the resistor pack yet?

prep is key. :thumbsup:

just don't use a torch. and try to keep the steel as cool as possible during the process. :thumbsup:

really you broke a leaf? wow that sucks ive hulled like 2500-3000 lbs of oak wood from a huge tree be for and it was easy, my truck just looked like a low rider :ack: Brandon broken leafs are typically due to rust.

cool. then yes, that sounds like it should work pretty good :thumbsup:

as I understand the easy start operation, you pull the cord to wind up a spring. don't have to pull fast at all. the spring releases and it starts the motor. the spring apparently turns the motor at 750 rpms to start it.

yup. you just need to nip a bit off the steel bushing. I also trimmed a bit of the arm itself for maximum wheel travel, but that's not entirely necessary.