flint54

I bought mine from Morris 4x4 (http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-in ... r=18267.01) at $15.99 for the pair. These folks are really good about customer service and rapid shipping.

The height sensing valve meters fluid to the rear brakes. As the distance between bed and axle decreases (due to added load in bed or on hitch), the valve permits increased fluid flow to the rear brakes. Some folks believe this valve is; A) not necessary, and/or B) an added risk. For point A, folks contend that good drivers can manage their braking just fine when carrying a load, and point to the fact that most other trucks have no such valve. For point B, folks contend that the valve is most likely quite old and subject to sudden failure under emergency braking pressure. I can tell you that the valve is not serviceable, and new replacements are not available. Mine remains installed because it works fine and it preserves originality (a fact that is becoming less important to me as I continue to upgrade with components from other Jeep models). My opinion is that the failure risk is real, but low probability. I believe the most probable failure mode would be a bypass flow due to wear of the internal seals, and the result would be an increase to the metered flow rather than a total and sudden loss of system pressure. But, until a failure occurs, nobody knows. If you're concerned about any of this, the valve can be very easily removed. Search the archives, much has been written about this.

One other thing to consider is a road force balance for the wheels. That made a difference for my similar issue. Cost me $15 per wheel. Turned out smoother than the standard dynamic balance.

RE: "The stock plates will NOT work with the Chrysler 8-1/4 axle, though." I must have gotten lucky because my stock plates on the original D35 worked beautifully on the Chrysler 8.25 swap. The original holes were enough to accept the wider 3" diameter U-bolts. I confirmed this was not an oddity after ruining one of the shock stud threads and hunting all over Texas for a replacement plate. That plate also fit the 8.25 just fine.

RE: 30-34 mpg on long trips Please help me here, as I would really like to get anything remotely close to that kind of mileage. What is your gearing? Under what conditions do you achieve this (speed, road type, weather, etc., windows up or down, tailgate up or down, etc.) What tires do you run, and at what pressure? Over how much total distance have you achieved that mileage? 100 miles? 1000 miles? How are you measuring miles? Your odometer or the posted road signs? What else have you done to your truck to promote fuel efficiency? Do you have a tonneau cover on the bed? Anything else to reduce drag? I run my truck up and down the interstate, 700 miles at a time, 10-15 times per year, and I'm grateful to get 22-24 actual mpg. I will re-route my air supply any way you recommend, and will even hang dry ice in front of it, to get 34 mpg. With one stipulation: it must be fully reversible. Thanks!!!

Works fine for me, and very close. (my tire is 235/75/15, chart says 720 rev/mile, the mfg (firestone) says 723 rev/mile). Just not sure why it stopped at 70mph though. Should have at least ran it up to 85 where the speedometer quits.

I'm nearing completion (waiting for a couple odd minor parts) of my 8.25 + rear disc mod. I used backing plates and calipers from a 1997 ZJ. Two things needed attention;, the backing plate center holes needed to be opened up about 0.010" (I used a 3" sanding drum on a drill press), and the mounting studs on the axle tube ends needed to be replaced with the ZJ studs to account for the thicker backing plate. Other than that, it's all bolt-on. Also, I found this link: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_hel ... Angles.htm to be very helpful to understand the relationship between pinion, d-shaft, and output shaft angles. Parallel is good, and there's a couple other factors. Also had to revise the brake lines a bit, and there's a number of ways to do it.

:agree: I guess I'll pile on, with apologies. There's no truck job that I won't tackle with confidence, except a windshield R&R and a paint job that I want to look good. But, I will wish you success!

Guys, I'm not married to any particular brand, but I am keen on delivering traction to all four wheels on or off road, by selecting 4wd full time with the 242 T-case. Doesn't have to be a "locker", but does need to be reliable, permit steering, not require re-doing the internal rigging, and affordable. I rule out the ARB due to cost. I'm not finding sources for the Dana Power-Loc units, only clutches. The Detroit Trutrac looks worth investigating - thanks! I like the "no clutches" factor.

I think it made a big difference, not just for sound but also for heat. I have no data to back up my perception, but the use of reflective layers has been well documented to reduce radiant heat gain. I put the stuff in every place I could possibly reach, often cutting small pieces to fit into crannies, like cab corners.

Recently installed a Powertrax no-slip locker in the Chr 8.25, which is designed to disengage in turns and lock up solid when straight. Eventual goal is the equivalent of AWD using the NP242 combined with another no-slip locker in the D30 up front. The good folks at Richmond Gear advise against this (they say they're concerned about liability) stating that, if the locker does not disengage in a turn as it is supposed to, the understeer could be "dangerous". My D30 is the newer non-disco so the sides cannot be decoupled. I want full traction at all corners when the conditions turn rotten whether on road or off. Given this information, who thinks this is: A) a really dangerous idea B) somewhat risky but manageable C) not really a big concern (if driver pays attention) D) just a waste of money (~$400 + u-joint upgrade)

Scored today at a JY in Trinity Texas!

Like title says, there a JY MJ at Alliance salvage yard in Sugarland Texas that has a very nice headliner - looks to have been recovered. Sound, no sags, and waiting to be plucked. JY owner says $75. No cargo light, no rear speaker brackets, no D44 axle.

Courage, plus the incredibly good fortune to actually find one! I remember when I had my interior gutted (and regret now not making any images) and looking at that spot on the shell wondering if I could really pull that (drill) trigger. Speaking of cargo lights, I'm curious if anyone has ever contacted Chrysler to learn if there's a chance of finding build records from the Toledo assembly plant. Neat to know how many trucks ever got this light, and, who the supplier was.

Is there no exemption for vehicles over a certain age??

Ok, I've located candidate 242's. Mileage cannot be known, gauges are gone. Cannot know full condition before pulling, but what to check before and after pulling? Here's what comes to mind: 1) condition of fluid: quantity, color, odor, contamination, etc. (before pulling) 2) no evidence of metal particles in fluid (before pulling) 3) absence of lateral freeplay of input and output shafts 4) exercise shifter and verify function at each position (not sure how to check full time 4wd) What else to check? Should I plan to open it up (and why), or just install and pray? Should I be concerned about chain stretch?

LKQ and Pick&Pull around here have flat rate price for axle assemblies regardless of type. I paid $90 for my 8.25 out of a 2000 cherokee, in prime shape. Several of those, but could not find any Dana 44's though.

I stayed SUA. Suggest getting the axle assembly exactly where you want it, then tack weld those perches before moving from truck. Them remove and finish the welds. Also a good time to ditch the open gears and put in something that will drive both wheels. I put in the Powertrax no-slip, but haven't gotten to enjoy it yet as I'm still fiddling with the disc brakes. Also taking this opportunity to scrub, ospho, and undercoat the underside of the bed and frame rails while I'm in there.

On top of all that, if the needle happens to be resting against a post when you pull it off there could be further unwind of spring within the guage that will take away accuracy when needle goes back on. Also, I would never pull on the needle, with or without tool, unless I also had a way to grasp the shaft so I'm not pulling it also. I've pulled needles both successfully and unsuccessfully. Good luck!

Regardless of where you get your perches, let me suggest you find an accurate way to measure angles. Need to know the angle of the T-case or T-mission output shaft, the angle of the drive shaft, and the angle of the pinion. pinion angle should be very close to parallel that of the output shaft. On my 8.25 swap, the Tcase shaft was +5deg, the d-shaft was +7deg, and the pinion was +4.5 deg. Need to measure with the axle assy in place because the spring surface is not necessarily level.

RE: re-drilling perches. That would be a good fix, if I didn't already have replacement in mind. I'm going to get the Woods DS, after I can figure out the T-case dimension change (if any) from 231 to 242. The Woods folks did not know whether there was a difference. Sooo, I'm asking all of you: Do any of you presently have the NP242 behind an AX-15 on the 4.0 HO and willing to make a measurement for me? What I need to learn is the distance from mounting plane between transmission and T-case, to the end of the tailstock housing where the seal is. That dimension on the NP231 is 16.5 inches. Thanks!!

I looked this up in parts manual and it is indeed a plate assembly that welds to the frame rail, not a threaded in part. Part number is 5501-5400-1. I still think welding is the way to go, and agree with the fellow that said to just weld on a headless bolt. Grind off what remains of your threaded portion only. There is very little reason to put much torque here, all this nut and washer do is keep the shock from sliding off the post. A self-locking nut snugged down gently is sufficient.

Good leads. 50% lighter, 50% stronger, and $200 I can live with. I assume I'll need to give them dimensions, and hopefully I can select a length that will accommodate the NP231 and the NP242 as I don't yet know whether the T-case swap will affect the D-shaft length. They will probably know. Thanks!

The nut breaker is the ticket, but if you don't have one I've had great success using a MAP gas torch and heating the nut as hot as it will get. They will almost always spin right off once they're hot enough. Caution!!: if the shock is on you're going to catch the rubber bushing on fire. You'll get molten rubber on your fingers, then swear, then accidentally aim the torch at a brake line or something. How do I know this?

Don't know how, but I buggered up the threads badly on mine. There are two versions of this plate, a light one that's about 3/16" thick and uses a second stiffener, and then there's the thick heavy duty one that's 1/4" thick. I need the thick one. It's about the last thing I need to finish my rear axle project and I will be immensely grateful to anyone who turns up one of these. Thanks!!