flint54

Have you scrutinized the surface of the slip yoke to be certain there are no burrs or rough spots that could quickly harm a new seal? Suggest rub it with an extremely fine polishing cloth (equivalent to 2000 grit) and then metal polish to be sure. You may need to replace the seal again.

I installed a separate Spal temp sensor using a Tee fitting into the heater hose circuit after confirming it flows all the time whether or not the heater control is opened. Ironically, and for reason(s) I have have yet to determine, my dash temp gauge quit responding as soon as I first powered up the Spal, even though there are totally unrelated electrically.

Any good auto parts store (NAPA, for example) should have a flare tool kit. If you haven't flared brake line ends before, I encourage you to make some practice flares on scrap until you like the result. You will really appreciate the braking difference this mod will provide.

Oh man, you're a champ!! :bowdown: Figure 19, pin #5, F12 - 18DB/WT. F12 feeds from PDC fuse #6, which feeds from A21. That one really threw me a curve ball since circuit A21 (BHD pin B6) showed as hot on start only at the ign switch, but clearly it is hot on run, given it powers so many items.

I have the FSM schematics, but I'm mechanical not sparky. I want to locate a "hot on run" terminal in the engine bay, and would really prefer not to cut into a wire, even if I knew which one. I know there's plenty of opportunities in the cab, but I would rather not stuff a +VDC wire through the firewall. The bulkhead connector shows terminal G6 on the cab side as hot on run, but there's no G6 listed on engine bay side. With an overabundance of caution, I've not yet dismantled the connector to evaluate whether I can add a pinout to the engine bay side. If I remove the small center bolt, do the two connectors demate? Does anyone know if it is possible to add a wire/pin to the connector at G6? OR, does anyone know a suitable "hot on run" connection in the engine bay? I was hoping the ballast resistor was, but it is not. Thanks! Why? SPAL fan controller wants this, in addition to the direct (fused) tap from battery.

RE: Go to the junkyard and look for any low mileage 93-98 ZJ box. I got one with 70K on it for $50 and it was like new. Plus it's a little quicker ratio and feels a lot better than the stock MJ box on the road. It's bolt-in, only you'll have to reuse your original Pitman arm. :agree: Did the same thing, except I was able to use the Pitman arm that came with the box just fine. Cost me $30, plus a few hours labor. Charging $80 (and up) to adjust toe only is criminal, and they do it many times per day.

Please forgive me if this comes across as unhelpful (or worse), but, unless you've got an abundance of time, and a big thirst for the large project, it may be far simpler to just find the truck you prefer to have. I think there are still enough to choose from that meet your criteria.

And, be sure to search here (or elsewhere) for the specific bleeding procedure if you still have the height sensing valve on the read axle. Also, if bleeding doesn't completely solve this, I suspect the master cylinder is failing. Good time for dual diaphragm brake upgrade id so. The brake warning light switch is on the proportioning valve next to the MC.

As a point of reference, there was recently a 92 Eliminator, 4.0, 4WD, AW4, on Ebay. A Florida truck in very nice condition. The owner felt the truck was work $6000, but the bidding stopped at $3000. I think the value was somewhere between the high bid and the owner's opinion.

FYI, there's a 91 auto longbed in the Mega-U-Pull in El Paso (Montana Ave) TX with 150K miles and a Dana 44 rear axle. Bench seat, decent bed, good glass. I got the tail lights.

Nope, not all. My 92 Eliminator didn't have them, but it does now. The panels had the attach locations already drilled. A very easy upgrade.

So, right after this hunt season, the T-case and AX-15 come out for swap (231 to 242 and external slave). While I'm there, it make sense to refresh the clutch, even though with only 85k miles it works fine. All I read suggests to replace (not resurface) the flywheel, but I'm wondering who makes the bulletproof disc and pressure plate: Sachs? Rhino? OEM? Centerforce? Hays?, opinions please. Thanks!

Bell housing found. On 93 XJ 4.0. Learned the hard way about the two small, forward-facing, bolts.

Chad, I recommend this radiator: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... F2671.html I also recommend you find or buy one of these laser/IR temp guns: http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/electri ... ?PID=56096 (or equivalent), and measure actual temperatures at various points in the cooling system. I use as a reference temperature the thermostat housing where the large hose connects. You are likely to find that your dash gauge is inaccurate, or screwed up. I don't think it should peg when cranking. How's life in Aptos? Used to live there (Freedom Blvd) a great many years ago.

Just curious of you found the source of freeplay yet. 30 degrees is quite a bit!

Great time for disc brake mod!

The back panel plactic posts are replaceable, and universal ones should be available at any auto parts store. I think that brown lead is negative, but if you pull the radio (assuming OEM) I think there should be a diagram.

A little more digging and I think I found it here: http://www.myjeepxj.com/useful-informat ... infomation Roughly 1.4 inches difference in length.

And there's no such thing as an "XZ" either - damn my keyboard!

Sounds like poor fuel supply. Suggest measuring pressure at the rail. How is the fuel filter?

I am hoping someone here might tell how much to cut off, or, how much remaining extension I should have with the shaft installed. Thanks!

First, the data: 4.0L - 4wd - D30 front - AX15 - 231 - 2" lift Next the change: was 92 high pinion, now 01 low pinion was original LCA/UCA, now ZJ LCA/UCA (lengths virtually identical) My old front DS was in poor shape, so it went to the scrap yard. I grabbed a JY DS in great shape, paying attention only that it came from the newest 4.0 XJ I could find. Stripped, blasted, coated, new U joints. A work of art. It will not fit. Fully collapsed I cannot get it in, and, without further ability to compress wouldn't want it in there now anyways. It measures 30.7 center to center fully collapsed. I've now learned that auto shafts are longer than manual. Here's my question: I will have it shortened to what length?? How much remaining extension with shaft installed is appropriate?

Depending on the actual condition, this may help: http://www.eastwood.com/gas-tank-sealer-kits.html If the tank is significantly corroded, like a lot of pitting that reduces the skin thickness (as opposed to just a surface condition), you may be better off to just get a new tank.

Also in the process of changing to two 96+ XZ electric 10 blade fans. First one is simple plug in, but you need to change the connector. The taurus twin fan draws big amps, and, I believe both fans come on at once. With the two separate fans they can be controlled individually. The older fan wiring is, I think, 12 or 14 gauge and probably should be upgraded as well. (I'm using 10 gauge which is rated for 30 amps). Fan #1 can control with existing circuit and fan #2 can be controlled by separate temp sender, by SPAL (or other) control system, or by switch alone, but will also require a separate relay. The 96+ XZ fans cost me $40 each at the JY. Keep in mind, the existing fan circuit is fused for 20 amps, and the existing wiring isn't good for much more than that without risk. Not much worse than a melted +VDC wire inside a large bundle. Can ruin your smile in a hurry. If you go with JY fans, be sure to test them first and carefully inspect the shroud for damage.

Just to close this old loop, I now have a set of OME coils, marked "A" and "B" (for LH and RH) and they solved this trivial issue perfectly!