flint54

Just to close the loop, I cooked those little bas$$$ds for an hour, soaked parrafin into the threads, cranked them in both directions, and got absolutely nowhere. I've decided that draining from those points is vastly over-rated. Got the Prestone flush kit that cuts into the heater hose, and flushed the system adequately. Got more stuff out of the heater core (and then not much) than anywhere else. I've installed the Hesco water pump (with the scroll impeller), the CSF 2671 all metal radiator (Hesco sells it but it can be had for a lot less elsewhere), and the newer (from 98 XJ) 10 blade fan. Put the correct (195 deg OEM) T-stat in, and running distilled water with 12oz water wetter. What a difference! I can dump tons of heat now. Still planning to add the second 10 blade fan, after thinking through the electrics for a bit. I'm concerned about the first fan. The 98 XJ donor uses a much heavier gauge (#8 I think) for the fan than our MJ wire, which looks like only #14. I'm thinking about pulling heavier wire through the harness, but not looking forward to that task. (Yes, I know I could just add new wire outside the harness). I don't have an ammeter that range, anyone know what these fans actually draw? Thanks!

Want to fully drain old coolant. Cannot remove those drain plugs beneath the manifold. PB Blaster soaked for days. Roasted with mapp gas torch for a very long time. 5/16" square tool steel cranked with as much force as space will permit. Not one budge, not even a tiny one. Even danced on one foot with an ostrich feather in my teeth while waving chicken bones and chanting incantations. Apparently the wrong ones. Does anyone know the correct incantations? Or any other viable techniques I may have overlooked?

Mine was quite "invigorating", and I found nothing loose. Turns out the truck had old tires that weren't able to be well balanced. I road force balanced those tires and the problem was 90% solved. New tires with road force balance and the truck is now smooth as grandma's Oldsmobile (comparatively speaking). I can now enjoy tucking into a corner instead of wondering which ditch (or pole) I'm going to wind up nosed into. Old tires can have plenty of tread, but the tire man convinced me he can tell the tire age by codes on the sidewall. Said there was probably internal separation.

I drove around for a couple months with 800 lb of (bagged) rock salt in the bed and my HC MT springs didn't settle more than 1/4". I also couldn't tell the salt was even there while driving.

I gave in to the urge and bought a Fluke 62 Mini IR temp gauge (with laser pointer). I find that my dash gauge is surprisingly accurate, depending on exactly where else I measure. When dash gauge says 210 deg, I read 205 deg on the T-stat housing, 200 deg on the upper hose immediately connected to the housing, and 220 deg on the brass body of the sensor screwed into the housing. Surprisingly (to me anyways), the upper hose temp drops to 185 deg at the radiator, and the lower hose temp measures 175 deg coming off the radiator. I was surprised to drop only 10 deg through a new (OEM) radiator with both fans running, until I ran across this article that suggests a 10 deg drop through the radiator is typical. The article also discusses other aspects of cooling system design, including instances where changing the flow rate may be warranted. http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%20Ba ... oling.html

Welcome to the group!! Let me break down your question: 1) How hard is it to install new floors? It is not terribly difficult, if you have sheet metal tools and skills. Rotozip or equivalent to cut out bad metal, and spot (or other) welder to install new. Follow with seal sealer, primer, and coating of your choice. Don't forget your safety gear, be mindful of what's behind your cut, etc. 2) Can you buy new floor pans? Yes. 3) Where? Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... 92-2605826) and other sources sell them for $40-$50 per side. 4) If only your floors are bad, consider yourself very fortunate, but keep looking. Chances are you will find more somewhere.

I have a pair. Someone else here was going to buy them, but never came through. I would like $15 plus shipping, from zipcode 32765. Tom

As the title says, I am seeking a low mileage, D30 with 3.55, preferably with the larger U-joints (1999+ XJ w/ABS I think), preferably in FL, for a fair price. Call 321-536-1007

RE: "I would shorten the shaft about an inch." :agree: I just went down this path a couple months ago. The 8.25 housing snout is an inch longer than the D35. Got a shaft one inch shorter, all is well. The old shaft did fit, but I was uncomfortable with the lack of remaining travel, and more uncomfortable with the consequences if it should bottom out suddenly with force.

Fuel starvation? Unable to maintain pressure at the rail due to filter or pump going south?

I got the "gold seal" ones a few weeks back from Tom Woods Custom driveshafts and got the ones with zerk fittings in the caps. Don't remember the series number but he will know. Cost me around $60 delivered as I recall. Rebuilding the cardan and that spring-loaded center ball pivot was fun, especially all those tiny needle bearings. It turned out well. I haven't installed it yet, and hope that my failure to mark everything as it came apart will not be regrettable.

FWIW, I discovered today three longbed comanches at: Vince's Auto Parts in White Marsh, MD. They're all pretty picked over (no traillights, etc), but one of them has good bucket seats and brackets, one of them has a good headliner. No cargo lights. No Dana 44's. They appear to have been there for quite some time, and this is an older type salvage yard where vehicles are strewn haphazardly and are overgrown with weeds. At least one of them is 4WD.

Sorry, I'm compelled to chime in on the U-bolt re-use topic. While I have to agree that always replacing them is a safe practice, that does not mean that re-use is inherently unsafe provided certain things are met: 1) Most important. You need to be certain the U-bolts are of good material AND they have never been overtorqued (which would take the material past yield point). 2) The nuts are the same thread type as the bolts. Just because the bolt threads are rolled (UNJ) doesn't mean that correct nuts with correct torque will ruin them. What happens is that the entire length stretches creating preload, the clamping force for the joint. Fasteners are most efficient when the preload approaches 80%-90% of material yield BUT you better be able to know where that point is, and be able to torque to that point and no farther. In this range the bolt remains elastic and can be reused without concern. We have ran this test many times on many fastener types. 3) Do not use thread lubicant unless you understand (by test) the results. It can take preload too high. Just have dry clean threads. 4) All bolted joints settle out over time. Re-check them periodically. If applied load exceeds preload cyclically (like a bumpy road with U-bolts not tight enough) fatigue life goes to hell in a hurry due to joint gapping. New bolts every time is cheap insurance, but I have no qualms about subsequent retorque of U-bolts that I installed new, and then reinstalled myself at a later point.

And probably best if you go ahead and plan to replace those plastic clips. They're old and brittle. Team Cherokee does (or at least did) sell them.

Hmmmm, I was just about to pull the "buy" trigger on that water pump, but this thread causes me to pause. Not so much that someone had a problem with one, but because, according to this thread, they do not stand behind the product. I don't consider a water pump with an improved impeller design a "performance" part. At least not in the same vein as a turbo, or NOS, or some such other device that is intended to actually improve the power, not just move some water a bit better. This is troubling me.

I have one in Orlando FL., under 80k miles, for $100, but you gotta come get it.

Ok, I'm planning the upgrade to dual piston calipers and am curious about the wide variety available. There's the OEM Akebono, then there's; Bendix, Cardone, ACDelco, Raybestos, Centric, and others. Are these really different, or are they just one common maker and separately branded? Is there a whits difference amongst the crowd? I know I've got a lot of work ahead with this mod, and it will be quite some time before done, but just laying out the parts list for now. Any opinions on the caliper choice? (I know to stay away from the Teves). Anyone here done this mod?

The 1997 and up 10 blade electric cooling fan is supposed to move more air (don't remember the numbers), and my question is, does anyone know if the motors are the same and can one simply change the fan blade, or is there a change in motor also? I know the assembly is simple direct swap but are the blades also? Thanks!

When I did my rear axle upgrade I went through a LOT of fluid before the system satisfied me. I also had to replace two questionable lines that _might_ have allowed air into the system. After standard bleed, and opening the RF bleeder, the bypass line bleeding worked but took far longer than I expected. Had to keep a pan under RF to catch fluid also. I also use a line in a clear bottle of fluid, but I keep the bleeder open so I can push the pedal while looking under the vehicle at the bottle (one man job). I have to wonder if it is possible for a compromised seal between reservoir and MC to permit a continual but small air intrusion?

I'm too "forum" ignorant to know how to attach previous threads, but if you're able to look up past posts from/by me you might see some info. I believe the only way this problem can be solved is by salvaging a couple good parts from another truck, then drilling out the spot welds on that item as well as yours, and then welding it into your truck While that piece is out I suggest a good coat in the inner surfaces (POR-15 is great) to slow down future corrosion. It was a slow job, but not all that difficult. I bought a good piece from a forum member who sawed out what I needed. (item #7 or #8 in diagram depending on side). I am 99.999% certain that the part you need is not available new. Rust really sucks. Image Not Found

After breaking a bunch of those "dayem" studs, I've learned the following helpful techniques: 1) wire brush the exposed stud threads 2) chase those threads with a spare nut (or a die), while holding the installed nut 3) liberal application of PB Blaster 4) very careful application of heat (fine flame) while shielding the plastic closeout 5) work the nut very slowly, in small increments Still may break some, but can weld new studs to the retainer strips if yo do. Grease them for the next time.

Sure glad I don't live in a place that objects to me braking with my feet!

Most folks go to Reno for the casinos and cathouses. Me, I've come to hunt for MJ parts and today it paid off. After a couple years of looking, I found a nice one (along with the switch and connectors): And for anyone wondering, here's how big the hole is: I found four MJ's today, two in Sparks and two in Carson City. One of them had a Dana 44 rear axle, which, sadly, will not fit in my luggage.

If I understand you correctly, your issue is that the shoes do not return to the non-braking position after applying and releasing the brake pedal. Things to consider, or rule out: 1) bad wheel cylinder (sticking piston) 2) incorrect shoe or spring installation 3) shoes worn crooked due to #2 4) EB cable frozen and not fully releasing

Thanks for that line. Wasn't sure which parallel to look for. Now I can much better assess the geometry change before making a physical change.