SBpunk

For emergency brakes - https://www.amazon.com/Lokar-EC-81FC-Clevis-Ford-Explorer/dp/B000CORQ2Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495561633&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Lokar+clevis+adapter U-Bolts - http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB325.html Perches - http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/88PERCH.html 3 qts (2.5) of 75w90 diff gear with LSD fluid if you have LSD Flange Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Dana-Spicer-2-2-1379-Flange-Adapter/dp/B009X1XF0E or junkyard make sure you get the bolts too

You sure can! Just need to drill out the holes to size. Those plates are really thick and can take it. I'm currently in the middle of this exact swap and thought my shocks were going to be too long. Reused the plates and put the aftermarket shock tabs in the parts box for later.

Don't forget about the relays in the PDC if its the same as the 92. I'm getting ready to do the swap next summer and gathering parts. Going to end up just buying an XJ around the same year, rebuilding the transmission and calling it a day.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/waterproof-relay

That's the one I was talking about except the guy wires the whole thing. Trying to upload a pic but government computers and photobucket are $#!&e

Lol I appreciate it. Not well educated on electrical aside from knowing things should be fused coming off the battery. I found a waterproof relay/fuse box a guy sells on facebook but its around 150 bucks pre wired. Uses mini fuses it looks like though.

With those do you run multiple lines from your battery into them? Looks like 2 inputs and 4 out

Anything you guys would recommend that's semi water proof?

https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495206038&sr=8-2&keywords=auxiliary+fuse+box

Thanks for the quick response. As of right now I'll be running a CB and air compressor. I plan on getting electric locker down the road and eventually a winch which I'll probably run directly off the battery since the draw is so high. I'm going to be running a 136amp alternator with 4 gauge wire. Eventually I'm going to run a second battery as well for long trips out in the woods as a safety backup but for right now I'm just trying to safety proof everything to avoid issues in the future. When I get the other 12v accessories I want to be able to hook them up to a relay and ground and not have to worry about fuses or finding power sources.

Ok so I don't know much about relays and what not so figured I'd get the run down. Getting ready to future proof my Comanche with an aux fuse block and relay bank. I know I could run power directly to the fuse box but trying to see if there is a large enough power source that's keyed I can access from the PDC or somewhere inside the engine bay? I'm looking at running an 6 or 8 gauge wire to the fuse box and using that to power the relays. Any suggestions or do I just need to bite the bullet and run it from the battery?

These guys know more than me but I just did a rebuild. Decided to go with a stock rebuild since money was an issue. More importantly than that I built mine to last 20+ years. If I was going to beat her up more I would've done a 4.2 crankshaft / lifters etc. Cheap alternative and doesn't take a lot of aftermarket stuff. You can run stock injectors, don't have to fill up with high octane liquid gold and you still get enough power to feel it. Only reason I know is I took a buddies XJ out that was stroked with the 4.2 build.

I have a new gauge in route. I used an IR to check the thermostat housing but like Eagle said it wasn't off enough to make any kind of decision. Was going to use a mechanical gauge but I found someone willing to sell me a working one for cheap. Also ended up getting a new CSF radiator. I'm pretty sure the guy that rebuilt my motor just threw in a cheap one since the temps at the radiator were pretty high. As far as the fan goes if it doesn't help I'll just leave it on with the switch during the summer and call it a day. Tired of chasing down little things every other day with this thing lol

Ok gotta bump this its driving me crazy. Electric fan won't kick on by itself until its just under red. I'm talking close enough were if you move your head a little left its over heating. Anyway I've swapped out the ECU, thermostat, thermostat housing, temp sender, relays and even put in a new fan. Aside from the wiring harness itself any ideas what I need to be looking at? I have to do some research on how to test the signal the temp sensor is sending out. The fan is working since I have it on a switch now its just not getting the correct signal until its too late.

I appreciate it. Was planning on running a switch anyway but looks like it was bumped up. Got it back and everything checks out except for the electric fan. The fan motor itself works but it's not coming on at the proper temperatures. It won't kick on with the A/C or defrost anymore. They swapped out relays a few times to ensure it wasn't that but I'm being told the PCM itself might be causing the issue. For now I'm just going to use a toggle switch and swap out the computer later. Another thing is that the temperature gauge on the dash isn't reading the same as the IR thermometer at the coolant housing. Hoping to find a replacement and seeing better numbers will make me less concerned and I can start focusing on my idle problem again.

You should do a writeup for dummies on this hahaha I tried an ended up locking up my compressor temporarily. Pulled it to replace it and the old one spun better than the junkyard one I pulled.

Ok so the problems continue. Little info/history. 1992 4.0 rebuilt motor 600 miles ago (still has break in oil) new water pump, 190 thermostat, thermostat housing, radiator, lower hose, coolant, ZJ fan clutch and stock electric fan (doesn't kick on until the line right before the red). Prior to the rebuild she would stay steady at 190. Now I'm lucky to stay around 215 but never gets above 230 now (after I swapped back to a 13lb radiator cap). I'm having the system pressure tested but was hoping to get some insight from you guys. Its been cold around here and when summer actually hits I don't want this thing spiking out of control.

Thought about that but more points for failure. Figured with a pressurized brake system the less the better. Deleting the valve got rid of a few.

If it's getting harder to start you may want to look into this system, it is possible the hose inside of the tank might be " collapsing" causing a loss in pressure and therefore your bad idle or the pump might be on it's way out . Luckily the fuel pumps on our trucks are easily removable as long as you're below 1/2 a tank. Tracked it down. Have a small leak somewhere near the gas tank. Just replaced it not long ago and might not have gotten a good seal. Could be causing the loss in pressure. If I'm lucky its just one of the lines leaking since I just filled it up with 90 grade pure gold...

I ended up going with a dodge truck rear brakeline or something along those lines so I'd have a little more play. Honestly was a pain at first but practiced a few times on the line I ripped out. Got it to were it would hold and took it to the shop down the road. All he did was look at it, tighten it down a bit and tell me it was a good flare. Easy money. Used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes and been working great ever since.

Havent really gotten to focus on this lately due to my motor starting to boarderline over heat. Anyway I purchased a new distributor from HonrboD that needs to get installed this weekend (after fishing). Before that I need to get the MAP sensor tested. Every morning she's getting harder and harder to start so somethings going on. Going to have a list of semi easy things this weekend. MAP/ECU testing, distrubutor, water pump, thermostat, AC compressor and crankshaft sensor. Lucky I'm on leave all week next week.

Picked up a FlowKooler water pump and trying to find a good high flow thermostat. Rober Shaw sold his design to FlowKooler which you think would make it easy right? According to their website they don't have any high flow thermostats that'll fit in the 4.0's. Any suggestions for a 195? Or would a 180 be better for a daily driver?

I'm always nice until people give me a reason not to be. He's a decent guy but the quality has been lacking. It's about 70 miles from me so less of an issue if I just throw in a new pump. Hopefully that fixes it. Need to find a lower radiator hose with a spring in it. Plus it'll give me a chance to do a proper burb on the system.

330 miles lol

OK so let her idle in the driveway outside temp is 81 and she sat where the picture is. After cleaning up the wheels I noticed the fan clicked on checked inside and she was sitting at the tick right before the red.... Guess when I got my motor rebuilt they put in a inop water pump. Kinda pisses me off considering it ran at 190 all day long before.