Crash

Good news, still have my truck. Bad news currently is won't pass the smog sniffer. HC is ~300 and CO is ~5% Already replaced the O2 sensor as well. Kinda at a loss here. Unfortunately, I don't have a temp gun to confirm that the CAT is working properly. I'm thinking maybe years of abuse from the PO, and it recently running poorly that the CAT may be fubar? Since this is the only time I have to Smog it I really don't want to buy a new one if I don't have to. I have considered swapping the cat from my donor XJ, but condition of that is unknown also.

If you can get a good deal on the parts do it. And my suggestion is to buy a set of u joint shafts and use the cv shafts as spares. The front drive shaft might be too long. But you can trade or sell it and get an xj front shaft.

The ho, non egr manifold is longer, the downpipe has the bump for O2 sensor in it

He is really tall and skinny. Haha

Well, this will be the only time I need to do it, unless I sell it. My vehicles are registered in a county that only require testing upon change of ownership. What? I had no idea that was a thing here. Getting ready to take mine back for round two of smog testing next weekend.In certain counties, guessing more rural, less population only have to smog upon change of ownership. If you go to the dmv site it will give you a general list of counties and a place to enter registered address zip code to tell you what is required smog wise.

There's a few write ups over at naxja.

The whole panel is plug n pray.

If you search the slo.craigslist classified. There is a decent looking long bed 4wd MJ. I have driven by it a few times. Do not know specific condition. I think they are asking 3200$ish?

You should have used the "trick" on your house first.

Did you bench bleed the new MC? That is the first step.

I would go with a lokka locker. That will be what goes in my XJ C8,25 when I can afford it, unless I hit the jackpot and selectable locker will be there. I've never spent more than 80$ for a C8.25, geared or factory gearing.

If I am not mistaken, most places the law states that no more than 4 lights, including headlights can be on at one time on any public highway. Off-road is different. Maybe consider a multi-position rotary knob in the setup to select which pair/total lights to run.

I understand what you are saying. Sometimes they come back, but it's basically on borrowed time. Not everything is created equal. And with almost 300k on the clock, it is probably due for a rebuild anyways. I would find a JY/CL repalcement trans to swap in. Then if one chooses to rebuild or have it rebuilt then will have have fresh trans. Not necessarily. They've been known to come back. A local here got his full of water in a river, got it out of the river and drove it slipping and steaming to the trailhead, drained the pan, added motor oil to it as that was all he had, drove it home, and did a few drain and fills with ATF. Still driving it.

Um, I would go with a stock replacement 4.0L radiator. Unless you want to spend the coin on a novak rad.

The AW4 is a beat of an auto trans, but once there is coolant/water in the trans it needs rebuild or replacement.

For 500$, you should be able to find an MJ specific D44 to bolt in. Or D44, C8.25, F8.8, etc to swap in for less.

I agree with both of them, but they seem to be of the GM variety. Your local parts store should have what you need.

Honestly, I have only driven by it a few times. And seen the CL ad. If the condition is as good as the seller claims, then it should be a solid vehicle.

Where are you located?

Have you checked to see if any of the "unused" wiring is already there?

I hear that YJ column shift columns are plug n pray. Also, many older GM columns will work. But, not all of those had the position apparatus on the column itself.

1993 was the only year the ZJ had a manual trans option, rare at that. Will have 23-spl output. Just because they released the ext slave ax-15 in the XJ in 1994, does not mean it did not already exist prior. The AX-15 was only available behind the 4.0L in the ZJ, so it's plug n pray. Find a matching spline T-case and go for it.

If this is cheap enough, and you don't NEED to swap the rear end, buy it and swap the disc parts to your axle and sell the rest?

Well, you already have an OTA TB, need to go to some sort of high steer. Not sure how well that will work in comparison to your TB setup with the stock Turdy and knuckles. A D44/60 with high steer knuckles would work great. If you are going to run the Turdy for meow, I would suggest doing some sort of OTK steering, and maybe drop your axle side TB mount down a little to match the drag link angle.

http://slo.craigslist.org/cto/4867892046.html Not mine, but local to me. Have driven by it. Kinda far for you. But seems to be in decent shape.