mjeff87

where's the ROTFLMAO smiley at when I need it????? the shop just called me...... "your brake shoes are on backwards" "huh, didn't know that. Is that a fail?" "yes, it is. Can you turn them or do you want us to?" "I'll do it, and bring it back up on Monday" "well....if you can turn them, I'll tell 'em to put a sticker on then. But you HAVE to turn them...long shoe goes in the rear" I <> Virginia.... :roll: Jeff Image Not Found

How many on here recycle? My wife and I never did, but just started with the new year. I am flat-out stunned at just how much recyclable stuff we've been throwing out all this time. We're not greenies, but when we go from 5-6 bags of trash per week down to 1 or 2 (and all the rest is in the recycle bin), I get a good feeling. :cheers: Jeff

yeah, I'm not sweating the flares...like Jerry said, I can toss the 31's back on to pass. It's all the other stuff, being lifted 5+ inches and non-stock componentry (I think that's a word :D ) in the front end, plus I have a few holes in the floorboards on the underside (but all new metal cab-side), and I chopped my exhaust right behind the muffler. Trust me, they'll find something :headpop:

just ribbin' ya a bit :D I just got a brandy-new cordless sawzall for Christmas....used it to cut the fronts, and it's begging me to do some more work on the rear this weekend :brows: I'm taking the MJ up to the local garage tomorrow for inspection, and fully expecting the yoculs to fail it for some obscure reason, so I'll have this weekend to tinker with it. :cheers: Jeff

^^^^^;)^^^^^ Jeff

Excellent wrietup mfpdm, great pics too. That's exactly what I did on mine. The only thing I would do differently would be to definately use a set of 2 door XJ buckets to get the tilt feature.......I used 4-dr ones becuase they were the only ones I could find in black to match the rest of my interior. It's not "inconvenient" to get stuff in/out from behind the seats, it's a PITA! Jeff

crap on crap....my wife thru out the box (I left it on the kitchen counter) :headpop: All I have is the receipt, and it's all abbreviated.....MFG name is "STR" and the part # listed is "*AX9". I'll run back up to the shop this week and have them look it up again, and get the full info on it. Sorry! Jeff

ummm, yeah, just like such ;) You wouldn't have a close-up pic of either side, would you? I'm trying to figure out how far the metal sticks out once the flare is removed, and what to do with the inner fender. Thanks! Jeff

I cut the fronts off my fenders, but the 33's are rubbing bad when stuffing. Anyone here cut the back part of the flares out and have a pic or two I can go by? I'm thinking of cutting them flush with the lower body line, about even with where I cut the fronts. TIA, Jeff

I had to special order it from a local independant parts house I use down here. They called somewhere and told me they only had one in stock, so I grabbed it. I'll post up the manufacturer name and part number tonight when I get home. Jeff

yeah, like chico says.... These 2.5's are only controlled by a couple sensors, O2, MAP, MAT, TPS, and coolant temp. They all work together to send data to the ECU, so it can control injector pulse length (which basically is the A/F ratio, since the single-injector on the TBI system sprays onto the throttle plate). Jeff

OK, got a new MAT sensor and decided to put it in this morning. 20 minute job, tops......not! First off, the MAT on a 2.5 is alot harder to get to than on a 4.0 (it's tucked in right behind the TB and the valve cover, vaccuum tower thingy, and the manifold coolant line). Not easy to get a wrench on without removing all of the above, but I tried anyway and couldn't get any torque on it. So I cut the wires off it since it was coming out anyhow, and slipped a 3/4" spark plug socket over it on a long extension and proceeded to snap it off flush with the manifold :oops: Fished the guts out of it, went and bought a set of fluted extractors and spent an hour trying to get a socket to fit over the end of the extractor (3/8" square stock). That didn't work so I ended up using the ratchet end of a long 3/8" extension flipped over and slipped over the top of it, and a pipe wrench on the end of the extension. Borowed the wife's hairdryer :chillin: and let it run on high pointed on the manifold for about 10 minutes to try to warm it up some. About popped an eyeball, but it finally broke free and I was able to unscrew the rest of it It was the factory sensor, and it had become one with the aluminum manifold over the years. Got the new one in, and it along with the new O2 sensor I put on last weekend have really brought the engine back to life. It's not even noon, and I've already had 3 beers..... Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

'cept the one that I saw in the junkyard here last month.....FF D60 rear :nuts: ;) Jeff

D60 rear, D44 front.....360.....clean body. I'd be on it like flies on **** (but don't get rid of the MJ.....) ;) Jeff

washer method I've been using on my MJ below, takes about 10 minutes and 6 or 7 washers. I'm eventually going back to the vac motor, but using a manual vac switch in the cab, when/if I add a front locker. Jeff Image Not Found

J10 for $500.....drool.....I'd sell an unneeded internal organ or two if I didn't have the cash handy. BUT, being it's a southwestern PA truck, check the frame closely for rust-through. Jeff

I'm thinking about a set of XJ shackles for mine as well, just to level it a touch more. Nice MJ Doc.... Jeff

just a different carrier. They can be had new for <$100, or even less used. I got kinda lucky and found one from an old friend on NAXJA that already had a powertrax installed for cheap $$$. I just added the 4.56 gearset and had it all set up once. Jeff

You can use those hubs, but yer gonna have to get the matching rotors for the 99 to run on them. Axleshafts will swap in as well, but you'll need to add an inner seal @ the carrier for the passenger side shaft (one-piece shaft vs. your current disconnect 2 pc one). I haven't met a Jeep problem yet that couldn't be solved with enough beer, so post up a pic and let us drink.....I mean think.....on it a bit :D Jeff

Something's not right here.....they can be difficult, but not THAT difficult. Can you post a pic of it? To get the hub nut off, put the wheel back on and lower it back down. Chock it and hit it with an impact wrench (or a breaker bar, but it will roll more that way). But you don't need to take it off to do what you are trying to do. Like FUBAR said, pull the hub and axleshaft (and rotor) out together. If yer having this much fun trying to get a rusted/stuck rotor off, I can imagine how stubborn the hubs are gonna be :cry:

No, it doesn't need to come off to get the rotor off. It does, though, if you want to pull the hub without removing the axleshaft. In your case, both (hub and axlesahft)need to come off to replace the BJ's.

Just one of the little useless factoids buried deep in a convolution of my brain.....taking up precious memory space reserved for more important things (like my anniversary date, wife's birthday, my home phone number...... :oops: ) Jeff

carrier break for D44's is 3.73. If you regear a 3.07 to 3.73 or up, you need a different carrier, or what's called a "thick" gearset. Might want to consider adding a locker at the same time, since you have to reset the gears anyway. Jeff

I'll throw this out there just in case.....check each of the studs to see if there is a small washer-looking thingy on one of them. They're called Tinnerman clips, most often used on assembly lines to keep things in place until final assembly. That one little washer can ruin your day if it's there and you don't notice it. Probably not your problem, but something to check anyway.... Jeff edit: only pic of one I could find- Image Not Found

X2 I just SOA'd mine with a rebuilt set of 4WD leafpacks (mine was a 2WD originally, so the 4WD packs netted an inch by themselves). Ended up at almost 5.5-6" in the rear with a set of new Mopar spring pads. I used ZJ coils up front plus a set of ACOS thinking that would match the rear, but it didn't....had a good 1" rake, and that was with the ACOS fully extended which I was not comfortable with. Ended up pulling the ZJ coils back out and installing a set of 5.5 TJ coils....left the ACOS in but removed the adjustable disc and used the factory isolators on top. In hindsight, I could have left the disc in but just spun the whole way up, acting like a 1/2" spacer of sorts, and it woulda worked out fine. I ended up with about a 3/4" rake which doesn't look dumb (IMHO) and is all good because I still use my MJ from time to time as a pickup truck, and with a load in the bed it levels out nicely. As far as +3" in the front, you need to start looking at adjustable control arms to set pinion angle, and a longer trackbar (adjustable), longer swaybar links, brakelines, etc...... Jeff