mjeff87

FYI, to swap to an external slave, in addition to the bellhousing you'll also need the front bearing retainer, throwout bearing, and throwout arm with a clip for the pivot ball from an external slave set-up tranny. Not trying to discourage you, just making sure you know you'll need more than just the BH ;) Jeff

Now is the time to convert to the external style, if you can. I should have gone ahead and done mine before I installed my new driveline but I'm under a time crunch in the rental unit I'm working in right now and didn't have the parts available. Jeff

minor progress, got all of the sensors/injectors/wiring hooked up. Just waiting on one wire from Jon Kelly that I forgot to order and I can get the battery back in and all the starting/charging circuits hooked back up. Still need to swap fuel pumps and connect the fuel lines (spliced them on backwards, so I have to skinny in there and switch them around), and install the radiator and coolant. After that, which I hope to get done on Saturday, it'll be time to fire :cheers: I spliced the pigtail for the auto tranny wiring (underhood harness came from an auto MJ) to delete the NSS wiring and hook up the backup light circuit. Tied the B and C wires together for the NSS, and spliced the A and E wires to the backup light switch connector on the AX15. I'll post a few pics of which wires I'm talking about plus the wiring kit from Jon soon. Jeff

Nice work Don.....if you ever decide to swap a 5 speed in lemme know. There are some very specific parts underneath that are unique to just the AX15 I can tell you about. I'm finding out the hard way :D I'm sure the same parts would be specific to an NV3550 as well. Jeff

Pretty sure they are different....they have different part #'s in the parts manual. Jeff

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance ... /10002/-1# Be advised, the hole for the center pin is a tad larger than stock. Nothing a little creativity can't solve though ;) Jeff

I used the MOPAR perches, got 'em from Jegs....when I SOA'd mine, I'd say they were good for about 1/2-3/4" lift. But, they are cut (radiused) for the axletubes on an 8-3/4" axle. They worked on the D44 I was putting in with a good amount of stick weld (thanks Pat!), but I don't know how well they would work on D35 tubes. Jeff

:cheers:

Gix, didn't forget, just couldn't remember everyone :cheers: I'm getting old....... :D Well, I guess you can consider it in one BIG piece, now.... Jeff

We've got a pretty good number of MJ'ers here in the Central/Tidewater area of VA.... me (Richmond) pingpong (Hardysville) tjbliley (Richmond) UNL1MTD (King George) WahooSteeler (Waynesboro) ridenlow12 (Lynchburg) mfpdm (Tidewater) damn.....we need a group run (said the guy who's MJ is in pieces at the moment :D ) Who else??? Jeff

Ugly....ugly....UGLY! Glad I only caught the second half of that one :cry: Jeff

Made some progress this weekend, but not as much as I’d have liked to. Got the correct clutch kit (with the correct pilot bearing), swapped the bushing for the bearing and got the clutch and tranny installed on the engine. Jerry and his son came down on Saturday and we got the driveline in. I forgot to pick up the plate for the transmission that the mount attaches to, so I had to hit the junkyard this morning and pick one up. Got the plate, mount, AX15 shifter, and a clutch master cylinder for $30. Futzed around with the crossmemeber for about an hour trying to get everything lined up and realized I had it installed backwards…flipped it around, had to pound out a stud on the passenger side framerail that didn’t line up with anything, and bolted it all up. Hung the transfer case, cleaned up the shop and called it a day. I got smashed on tequila Saturday night and felt like crap all day today. Couple pics: Correct pilot bearing, installed Image Not Found New clutch kit Image Not Found Tranny bolted on, ready to install Image Not Found Going in Image Not Found Finally installed and all bolted up Image Not Found

like JT said, you can clock the front/back havles of an alternator in any position you want as long as the through-bolts line up. Most often it's done to realign the mounting holes/tabs. Jeff

For a 4.0 swap, you'll need the following: -complete wiring harness and ECU -4.0 frame horns and motor mounts -all of the accessories on the 4.0 block (alternator, P/S pump, starter, etc) -new transmission (the 4 cyl. one won't bolt up and is too weak) -4.0 clutch assembly and flywheel (and pilot bearing) -new transfer case with 23 spline input, or swap a 23 spline input into your current 21 spline case (disregard this, just noticed you are 2WD) -4.0 radiator -4.0 fuel pump You'll also have to splice in the 4.0 fuel lines under the hood as the 2.5 ones are too short and have threaded fittings on the ends. You may also have driveshaft length issues too. I'm reinstalling the new driveline tomorrow and will see if my current shafts will work or not (they are not standard length to begin with). That's the short list.....not an "easy" job, but nothing that requires any fabrication, just alot of swapped in parts. With so few miles on your 2.5, I'd at least open it up and see what the problem is with #1. Did you do a leakdown test to see if the problem is in the head? Could be something as simple as a bent valve or damaged valve seat......but I've also seen a #1 on a 2.5 that had a hole burned through the top of the piston :nuts: Open her up and see what you are dealing with, and let us know what you find out. ^^^that's funny right there^^^ :cheers: Jeff

funny you should mention that Motion....I'm about 3/4 of the way thru a 4.0 swap on mine right now (hope to get it fired this weekend). My budget was $500, and I'm just a tad over that now. But I did alot of extra parts replacement that weren't absolutely needed, just because I have the engine and tranny on a stand now. I probably could have dropped things in "as-is" for about $300-ish. My 2.5 was getting tired, and really wasn't comfortable pushing 33's.... Jeff

FYI, timing chain comes in a kit with the cam and crank sprockets (should all be replaced as an assembly anyway) and a new tensioner. IIRC, when I replaced mine last year it cost somewhere around $50. Jeff

Interesting development here…..I installed the brass bushing (that’s been sitting in my freezer for the last 10 days) after work last night. It went in without a hitch. Then I proceeded to install the new flywheel and got lucky because I had a spare set of bolts from a clutch job in the past. The flexplate bolts (remember, this engine was in front of an AW4 at one time) are not long enough. Got that done and went to install the new clutch……..and it’s the wrong #%#*&! one. Parts store gave me an AX5 clutch not an AX15. I’m taking it back today after work and exchanging it, and I’ll bet you any money that the pilot bearing that comes in the AX15 kit will be a perfect fit. The one I have now is for an AX5, which presses into the flywheel, not the back of the crank. New bushing installed: Image Not Found Flywheel installed: Image Not Found Flywheel versus flexplate bolts: Image Not Found

Geez Rick....when it rains it pours, eh? Sorry about your loss. Keep yer head up, things can only get better :thumbsup: Jeff

Rrrrraleigh/Durham :D is a dead-on 2 hour trip for me from where I'm at (I've done it 2X already). If anyone's REALLY interested in it I could be persuaded by copious amounts of Bud Light to pay it a personal visit and get a sitrep...... My stroker plans are about 1-2 yrs. down the line, but I'll have one, eventually Don :cheers: Jeff

you can do it without dropping the tank. I've done it twice so far on mine and will be doing it again shortly to swap a 4.0 pump in place of the current 2.5 pump (swapping engines at the moment). Pull the driveshaft so you have more room to work (not essential, but it does help especially when reinstalling). The OEM assembly is prone to cracking the hard lines where they enter the pump assembly, so rather than pulling the two soft lines off at the tank, I opt to disconnect them underneath the bed where the soft lines reconnect to the hard lines. That way, you don't unnecessarily stress the fittings that come out of the assembly and risk the chance of them cracking. The bottom of the assembly has a small conical rubber grommet that seats itself inside a cup in the inner tank, which may not stay attached when you pull the assembly. If it stays in the cup when you pull it, you'll have fun getting the tube realigned with it when you put it back in. Take your time and don't try to force things....eventually you will find the "sweet spot" and everything will line up properly. Last time around I had to use the squared off O-ring that jonnyc mentioned. It took a little effort, but I did get it to seal. You have to make sure it's centered when you tighten the lockring back up. It's a bit of a PITA, but it does work if you take your time with it. I agree that the OEM rounded O-ring is alot easier to work with. Jeff

:beerhead: Jeff

check to make sure all of the pistons in the calipers are moving I had one seized caliper in the front and a frozen wheel cylinder in the rear that caused the exact problem on mine. Jeff

5.89's I do believe. I learned to 4 wheel in a M715, back when I was a volunteer firefighter. We had one we used as a brush truck. Unstoppable, but downright frightening to drive over 40 mph. Jeff

in a heartbeat....... Jeff

I worked on it last night a bit....I reversed the two middle bellhousing bolts (screwed them in from the block side) and it looks like that'll work. Once I get it all in I can pull them out and turn them around. We'll see... Jeff