HOrnbrod

If you had to do the above, you should have used the 95-96 master/booster because it would not have been necessary. The 95-96 combo has a 1/4" aluminum spacer plate & gasket which snugs right up to your existing 91 firewall w. no leaks. No mods necessary for the pedal either, bolts right on using the existing clip.

I don't know why either. It is working correctly and as before by lengthening the rod 2", so I'll leave well enough alone. In looking in my MJ parts manual, the only consistent item on the prop valve assembly was the valve itself. The rod, arm, and bracket carried different part numbers for some years and for 2WD vs. 4WD because the 4WD stock height was taller than 2WD. Even the adjustment procedure changed between years. Maybe some individual parts have been replaced by the PO. Thanks all for the comments.

Eagle, respect your knowledge very much. Here's my thinking on this, just hear me out: With an unlifted/unloaded MJ, say the prop valve arm is parallel with the axel. When the distance between the prop valve and axle is increased 2", the prop valve arm will be pulled down to an angle less than parallel to the axle. So by increasing the length of the rod between the prop valve arm and the axel, the prop valve arm angle is restored to parallel with the axle, right? So even though the body is lifted 2", the prop valve will bias the front/rear brakes exactly as it did previously w/o any lift. Or is my logic AFU here??

Prop Valve to Bracket Bolts (2/ea): p/n J9423545 Bracket to Frame Bolts (2/ea): p/n 34201381 About $1.35/ea at the dealer.

Been reading posts regarding bypassing the MJ rear axle prop valve (load/height sensing valve, whatever you want to call it). Most guys disable this thing because it doesn't work and you can't get them anymore. But it appears mine still works. Last weekend I installed a pair of metric ton springs that resulted in about a 2" rear lift. I also have Ford Explorer disks on the back, and had great brakes. I had to make a panic stop yesterday, and the rears locked up first immediately, which had not happened before adding the new rear springs. Figured it had to be the extra 2" (duh), so I removed the link between the prop valve and the axle, and fabbed a new rod 2" longer so the prop valve still thinks the bed is unloaded. The brakes now work as before with the fronts locking up before the rears. So I'll stick w. what I got, until the valve craps out.

512TR, interesting stuff. I have a 91 MJ w. the AW-4, but am clueless as to the tranny internals. However, I do have the complete AW-4 manual in a .pdf file, and it contains all the external adjustments which I can handle. Unfortunately, it's not in color, but still usefull. Let me know if you need it. Don

Thanks Pete. Plan on sticking with the 8" wide 15" ZJ rims I have on now, so I think I'll be okay.

Yeah, all street at this point. Had a brain fart when putting the original MJ shackles on backwards. I had some TeraFlex extended shackles on to even up the rear with the front after installing OME front coils previously, but was getting more body roll than I wanted with them, probably because I'm carrying the heavy camper shell. So I sucked it up and put on new metric ton spring packs to compensate for the camper. I didn't want too much lift in the rear with the new packs; the goal was 2" maximum. Ended up netting 1-1/2" using the original MJ shackles, so it worked out okay. It's a very slightly stiffer ride in back, but feels much more secure w. basically zero body roll, so I'm happy. Expect these springs to settle perhaps 1/2" when broken in. So I ended up with an almost perfect 2" - 2-1/2" F/R lift as compared to the original factory specs. Next up will be 31" tires after I wear out the 235/75/15 on it now. I think I should have enough clearance for 31s now??

Thanks Pong - figured I'd do it wrong. I have the open side facing backwards. Does it matter? Everything seems okay.

Can anyone take a peek under their stock MJ and tell me which way the shackles are facing? Open end forward or toward the rear? Installed my new metric ton springs last weekend and forgot to mark them. Yes, stupid I know............. Thanks; Don

The only XJ buckets that will "bolt in" using your existing MJ brackets (bucket or bench) are 1994 and below. The 1995+ seats will not bolt in w/o mods. Even then, the 91-94 seats compared to the 1990 and below were slightly different but only in the seating heigth. These earlier seats were about 1/2" lower, but easily correctable with shims between the brackets and the floorpan.

Don't see a 3-position switch on these - look like just ON/OFF 2-wire so you can just wire them to the door switch wire. Rather have the switch so I can turn them on while the doors are shut. But the size looks right, probably Hella units.

The VW interior light uses a 12V 211-2 bulb. These are available in several wattages and also in LED. Plus the VW lens is clear and has a better reflector, so it's better suited for more light. I wouldn't want to read a book for several hours with these but they are better than the crappy MJ Renault original interior lights IMHO.

I guess I missed it. What's your point?? I think it's kind of okay to open your MJ door in the middle of the night (especially after a few brews) and have the cab light up so I you can find the keyhole, or whatever else you need at the time. :~)

VW Bug Type I pre-1979 work fine. Like Ebay item # 250024172210.

VW Beetle interior lights pop right in the same hole w. very minor shaving. Even have the 3-position switch so wiring is the same. They are a lot brighter too.

4-Leaf MJ springs used throughout the years were: 52006 448 . Std. Duty, 4 Leaf, Coded RB 52006 444 . Std. Duty, 4 Leaf, Coded RD 52006 446 . Std. Duty, 4 Leaf, Coded RE 52006 445 . Std. Duty, 4 Leaf, Coded RF 52006 447 . Std. Duty, 4 Leaf, Coded RG According to the guys at my dealer, they were all 900-960# capacity, just had a slightly different arch. 'Course, none of these are available anymore.

The link is: http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_spr ... eclub.html

I have been looking for a source for Comanche Metric Tonne springs for quite some time, and managed to find some. I needed a set because I carry around the camper, and mine were pretty sagged out. After I purchased, I spoke to the vendor and managed to negotiate a discounted price for Comanche Club members. There are 8 individual springs available now, and if orders are sufficient, they will make more (about a 3-month lead time). Spring specs are: New manufactured Metric Tonne leaf spring o Has the same specs as Jeep leaf spring part number 52003676 o Five leaf, three thinner top leafs and 2 heavier bottom leafs o 1500 # rating o 130 - 275 spring rate, 9-5/8" arch o 26" x 31" x 5-leaf, 2-1/2" wide Discounted price is $175/ea (regular price is #199.99/ea). You can order here: http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_spr ... eclub.html Shoot me a PM for any questions or pics. Don

Just be sure before driving to start it up after replacing the line(s) and crank the wheels side to side until the air bubbles are gone from the system. Then top up the reservoir.

Cheapest rocker panels I've found are here: http://www.rustrepair.com/BODY_PANELS/o ... HEROKEE.84 Item # 41

Yeah right. I'll try that Pong, but don't think it will last.......... :nuts:

Yeah Pete, that would be a good solution since I have converted to rear Explorer disks (D35 still though :cry: ). Need to find something for that heavy shell I tote around. Thicker front sway bar helped a lot, but still rolls too much for me. Have a new leaf pack in the back too. Been talking to a few guys who purchased the Amtech RollGard (http://www.amtechsprings.com/) and all love it, but none had an MJ. Too expensive though.........

Not stupid. I'm still SUA.

Scott; I did my ebrake a bit differently - used a slotted Ford clevis since I have Explorer rear disks.