HOrnbrod

Do you have an aftermarket capacitor discharge ignition box wired in? That's the only thing I can think of. :nuts:

Do not ASSuME Rich. :D All relays have contacts that are either are NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed). To change the NO or NC state, either a ground OR 12V is applied to the relay coil. Current flows thru the coil, and the relay changes state. This is what your switches are applying to the relay coil. W/o seeing a schematic, I tend to agree with Motion Offroad's reply only because of the color code on the push button switches. It looks like the black wire (ground) should go on the rocker switch center pin, and the blue wires should go on the outside pins. If they are indicator rocker switches and they do not light up, reverse the blue wires.

Glad you got 'er done Wahoo. :cheers:

Cool. Both are pre-HO.

Nope. BLHTAZ is correct. That hose seems to be for a non-AC model. Nope. This is the stock hose routing on my 91, if those are pics of LEAD's 93 XJ.

Yes, in a way. The 91+ stat housing will give you a bung hole for your new temp switch in which you can screw in your new switch to replace the temp switch in your old rad. The 91+ stat housing used a thermo sensor which fed a variable voltage to the ECU. So you can not use this ECU sensor. The ongoing problem is finding the correct switch to use in the stat housing bung. There are many many threads out there as to the correct temp switch to use. I can not recommend one since I opted to go with the Spal PWM controller that uses an existing engine sensor input; maybe Taz can chime in how he solved his temp switch selection, I don't remember. Make any sense?

Well, since my 91 already had the open system, I'll obviously keep it. The main advantages of the open system are that "burping" the system is much easier, and the coolant system pressure is not extended to the bottle. Both of these issues can cause problems with the closed systems. But it doesn't cool the engine any more effectively IMHO.

I get the best mileage and a better idle with the Champion copper cores. I think the heat range is the most important. The stocker 4.0s seem to run best w. the RC12s, but they were too hot for my stroker and I dropped down two heat ranges to RC10s and their color now is spot on.

Actually it's just the opposite. A couple of towns in the county went wet a few years ago, and according to their local police accidents and deaths related to DUI decreased. This is because in the dry sections sometimes the good old boys who haven't planned well run out of beer and have to drive sometimes 20-30 miles to refill and they're already hammered. We vote every three years for wet/dry, and two years ago the wet folks, of which I am a part, lost by 18 lousy votes. I think next year we'll be wet. :cheers:

that wiring is not present in an MJ Correct for MJs. If you use a switch there and other switch blank places on the other side of the dash you have to wire it the old fashioned way. :D It's convenient though as all the OEM SPDT switches and the variety of SPDT momentary contact switches all use standard 1/4" female spade connectors and can be adapted for a wide variety of applications.

Basically any switch you want to stick in there. But for XJs it was used mostly for the rear wiper or defroster. I used that spot to manually control my electric aux fan. :D

A while back I picked up on Ebay a new Chryco OEM sway bar for a V8 ZJ. It's 1-1/4" in diameter and made a world of difference controlling body roll with the camper shell I haul around. The seller Tapco had a small number of them on sale for $17.95 w. $11 shipping and it included the bushings. I grabbed one. :D Unfortunately it wasn't the pretty blue color though....... :cheers:

Me too Eagle. I think Cousy and Bill Sharman were one of the best backcourt duos ever. Cousy was probably the best playmaker of his day, and Sharman one of the best pure shooters ever.

That's for the POWER/COMFORT switch on my 91. :D

Figured you would be. :D Likewise. My best sports memories are watching Hondo, Cowens, Larry Legend, KC and Sam Jones, Heinson, Sharman, Cousy, DJ, etc. etc. in the old Garden. Damn, I must be an old bastid too! 8) Let's hope the new reassembled Celtics don't tank like the Pats did. :cry: Just saw the Giants received their Super Bowl rings yesterday.

I have been wanting to dump the antiquated mechanical fan for a while now on my MJ, and have been looking at various "how-to's" on Dino's and Gojeep's websites, among others. One criterion I had was that I wanted to keep it restorable if I ever wanted to go back to the mechanical fan, so I did not want to cut the existing mechanical pulley shaft as Gojeep did, which was necessary for clearance using the large 16" fans. After looking at various installs, I decided to go the route Slo-sho over on the NAXJA forum did and replace the mechanical fan with another XJ/MJ OEM electric aux fan, but with a few mods. These fans pull a lot of air for their size and I had a couple of spares readily available. Step one of course is to remove the radiator and the old mechanical fan blade, shroud, and clutch. Then I replaced the fan pulley studs with 5/16" x 24 x 3/4" hex-head bolts. Pulley clearance using the stock hex-head bolts: I used the bottom radiator brace for mounting the new fan. In the pic below, in order to make the new aux fan fit and clear the mechanical fan pulley, I had to Dremel two new slots in the radiator bottom support plate to move the fan closer to the radiator, and about 2" toward the driver's side so the fan blade head would clear the pulley bolts better. This setup fits great, and the new aux fan shroud is very close (but not touching) the radiator which increases it's efficiency. I did have to trim the shroud about 1/4" to make sure it was not touching the radiator. Here's what the fans look like on the rad before mounting looking from the inside out. Since this pic was taken I've swapped out the square blade fan on the right with a 1999+ 10-curved blade as they are quieter and have a higher CFM rating: Here's a rear view of the two electric fans. And a front view. I used a Spal PWM-V1 variable speed controller to independently control the new fan, which is now my primary cooling fan. For temperature sensing input to the Spal controller I used the existing dash gauge thermister located at the left rear of the cylinder head. I first tried the ECU temp sensor on the thermostat cover, but the gauge sensor on the head provided a larger voltage delta betweem the Spal LO and HI fan speed settings and gave more precise fan speed-switching control than the one on the thermostat cover. I set the LO speed to come on a 190*, and the HI speed at 215*. So far these settings are working fine, with the new fan staying on LO most of the time. The existing aux fan still operates as always, ON with the A/C or when the temp reaches 220* or so. But I did want redundancy just in case, so I wired in a dash switch so I could manually turn on the aux fan if the new primary fan went belly-up. Aux fan emergency switch circuit diagram So far all is well, the new fan runs 90% of the time in LO, only coming on HI speed when stuck in traffic for some time. The existing aux fan has never come on (except when I run the A/C of course). I also have noticed a mile or two increase in MPG on the stroker too, which is always good. The engine seems to spool up faster too because it's not pulling the old mechanical fan, but this may be my imagination. Hope this helps someone who is considering doing this mod.

Agreed. How 'bout Paul Pierce stuck on the Celtics for 10 years too? I love Boston; used to watch them in the old Gahden when I was a kid. This is their first trip back to the finals in 21 years. If Allen continues shooting as he did the last couple of games, and Garnett continues playing his usual stellar game, there's no doubt. BEAT LA! BTW, where was Jack Nicholson in LA? They can't win w/o him. :D

How 'bout them Celtics! :cheers: Man, this will be a great NBA final, shades of Larry, Magic, Parrish, and Kareem. History revisited, the real East vs. West........finally. :cheers:

Naw, I got that award wrapped up by drilling a hole through my radiator last week. How about "MORON OF THE MONTH AWARD" Has a nice ring to it, don't ya think??

What do you guys and gals think about the Let's Refuel America promo Chryco is offering for the purchase of new Jeep & Dodge vehicles. Chryco claims it's working great. They cap the gas prices at $2.99 / gal. Personally if I were in the market for a new Jeep (which I'm not) I'd prefer a $4K - $5K rebate.

That be da one. :cheers:

That's strange. It's listed on Cars.com for $4700 and Autotrader.com for $1290 from a Chevy dealer. 91 4WD Eliminator w. D44 = rare animal.

That's not dumb at all. Good low resistance grounding between the battery neg. post, engine block, and body are essential for all electrical circuits to function efficiently, including ignition. But good grounding, bonding, and shielding are probably the most overlooked symptoms when troubleshooting electronics. :eek:

The O2 sensor has the most to do with the mode shift. Have you checked / replaced that?

In a dry county (I live in one), you can drink your head off (as I occasionally do) in your own house only. But you can't buy alcoholic beverages in the county, nor order a drink in a restaurant 'cause they can't sell it. A dry county has no legal :D bars either (but they're here). It's a Southern Baptist thing. But I'm on the county line, so a 2 mile speedrun is all that's necessary. :cheers: