HOrnbrod

Vinyl moldings and seals, if not kept in an environmentally controlled space, will shrink over time especially in the cold. Sort of like Roscoe does when it's cold outside. :brows: I purchased a set of body side moldings once that were 1"-2" shorter than they should have been. They went straight back for a refund.........

Both AutoZone and Advance have replacement sockets in the HELP section. You'll want the Ford socket. Bring one with you to be sure. They have a pigtail attached and wire in easily.

Man, I guess everyone will have a horror story to tell you. Most good reliable old time shops with whom I have dealt with for years have either changed hands due to retirement or have been passed on to their sons or other relatives who are more interested in making money than customer service. This includes big time dealerships down to mom and pop operations. The values just ain't there anymore. I don't trust anyone now, and I do everything I can by myself because of this. But, as you, I can't do it all, then you are at the mercy of the greedy in-and-out the door mercenaries. It sucks..............

Yeah, and I'll bet her belly looks like a Chicago road map. Nice snuggle pups though......... :cheers:

No, you won't come out ahead; they prolly break more than our simple MJs. :D The steering box's just flat wear out eventually, in all vehicles. There are upgrades out there, like the Dakota, Jeep J10-20, and GM quick steering boxes, but not needed if you spend most of your time on-road. Just get a good remanufactured box, and slap it in. Not too hard to do. :cheers:

I replaced my steering box at 120K, so you're probably due.............. Especially if a PO was cranking over enthusiastically on the worm gear adj. screw. :eek:

No, you can adjust it cold, no warm up necessary. Follow E-man's instructions, if no improvement and you bottom out, it's steering box replacement time mate. How many miles on your rig BTW?

Yeah, did that annoying job on the drivers side, but was well worth it. Seals like a coffin. :eek: Pretty sure I have a #50 torx around here somewhere that's not AFU. Thanks guys. :cheers:

Yeah, does sound easy Bob. But If you ain't done it before, the first time's never easy. :D Know what I mean Vern? Was hoping I didn't have to remove the trim piece as my FSM made no mention of it, but just by eyeballing it looked like there was no way w/o doing it. Thanks again. :cheers:

You were pretty close Wahoo - it went for $4450. :cheers:

Anyone done it in an MJ? I acquired some new ones and and I'm curious if you have to pull out the plastic "B" pillar trim piece, or can you do it by just pulling the rectangular cover behind which the belt take-up reel lives? If so, how does the cover come off?

The intermittent module is a dealer-only or junkyard item. Try that first as it's the easiest.

I've got a couple you can have for postage. Shoot me a PM if you want them.

That's a 2WD w/o the dust cap. Because there was no cap, the elements got to your wheel bearings and they seized w. no grease. You're going to need a new knuckle because the spindle is most likely shot, rotor, bearings, and probably brake caliper too, at a minimum. Best to get these at your local pick-and-pull, any 2WD XJ or MJ will work.

Only one line going to the water control valve, and it's pink on mine. Just plug it off and bypass the H2O valve.

Yeah, right. Rust free too, in Ellington, CT. :nuts: Has this MJ been listed on Ebay before?? http://tinyurl.com/69ezxf

Here's the measurements of the LWB MJ vs. the LWB S10. Don't have the SWB measurements...........

Guess you're talking about the inner bearing on your 2WD, si? The race for the inner bearing is in the rotor hub. I've seen two different rotors, one with replacable races and one not. I think the HOs started the replacable races. If you replace the inner bearing, you got to pull and replace the seal too. Always wise to replace both inner and outer bearings. And it's normal for it to flop around until it's seated on the spindle. BTW, when tightening the spindle nut after everything's back together, rotate the rotor while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. torque to seat the bearings. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn, rotote the rotor again and tighten to 19 in. lbs. torque

I believe the original poster was asking about a cover for a longbox, no?

I used the $18 Niehoff sensor from AutismZone - works fine.

Well, getting the gauge going in the right direction is a good start. The reason for the inaccuracy is the resistance value of the potentiometer, the input sensitivity of the fuel gauge, and the upper and lower travel limits of the float arm. If I had a sending unit of each, I could compensate with either parallel or series resistor packs to provide reasonable accurate fuel gauge readings. But, I no have........ :cry: Interesting problem though.

The polarity of the fuel sending unit changed in 1991, that's why your gauge is reading in reverse. Locate a schematic for the 89 sending unit in the correct FSM (I don't have one) then ID the terminals at the tank. Swap the 12V feed with the ground wire that correspond to the potentiometer legs of the sensor. This will change the polarity of the potentiometer output (slider) to your fuel gauge, and it will read close to normal. But since the potentiometers are of different values in the Renix and HO vehicles, the fuel gauge will not be spot on, but at least it will indicate FULL and EMPTY in the proper direction. Make sense??

Closer still will be the pre-1994 Chebby S10 longbeds.

Me either. It's not. There are several sites to decode the VIN............

No, the brand was Autumotive Touchup, got the base and clear here: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ DupliColor did not list my paint code (PS7).