HOrnbrod

No they can not. The foil printed circuit on the back of the housing is completely different. Your tach should have an adjustment potentiometer inside. Try adjusting it full cw, then test. If the needle RPMs are not lowered, adjust the pot fully ccw and retest. You should be able to dial it in against a handheld tach if the dash tach is working now but inaccurate.

Yeah, just wanted to point out to swap the bottom covers too. Prolly could have done that w. less typing. :cheers:

El cheapo way: Pull both buckets, pull both seat bottoms. Pull upholstery from each bottom and reverse the upholstery installation on the bottoms. Reinstall seat bottoms using the passengers bottom on the drivers side, and vice-versa. The seat belt retainers on each seat bottom will be correct too. :cheers:

Miss Comanche Big Hair competition, circa 1980. :cheers: EDIT: Oh wait, what's that in the background??

Did you check down in Tornado? :D EDIT: Went through Hurricane once - nice little town.

Is this the plan, or are these actual pics of your built rig? Either way, I love it. But why are the Benz's being used as flex fodder? Damn, that makes me cry Tim. :(

If it has power mirrors, grab those too, as well as the console control switch and wiring. It's a whole lot easier doing the whole thing at once. :thumbsup:

No, but Mississippi does. :D Thank God for MS otherwise Alabama would be rated last in everything. :cheers:

The only "external" connections you will have to make are a 20A fused supply circuit (on the 10AWG TAN wire) at the left kick plate and ground if you use doors with the factory wiring harnesses. You of course will also need the cross-body harness from kickplate-to-kickplate to tie the doors together, or you can make your own crossbody harness.

My guess is the flexplate. Pull the inspection cover and check that your the bolts are tight, and look for any cracks in the plate.

Typical third world crap Bob-man. 5% of the fat cats control the other 95% of the population. And there's not a dayem thing you can do about it. Who knows what we would do if we were unfortunate enough to be born in as one of the doomed 95% in one of those craphole countries. :( And there's nothing "proverbial" about a 5"/54 or bigger shell screaming across your bow. It's craptacular. An RPG-7 has an max. effective range of about 500 meters; the 5"/54 deck gun is more than 13 nautical miles and can fire 16-20 rounds per minute. No contest. I'd be beatin' feet if I was in a Somali pirate scow. :D http://www.reuters.com/article/topNews/idUSTRE48N67320080924?feedType=RSS&feedName=topNews

What do you expect? I'd still like to have some firepower as a deterrent like the MSC tankers do and be able to blow the bastids out of the water. What do you recommend - do nothing? Negotiate? :nuts:

I see the big deal. I have plenty of friends and relatives who are sailors on civilian container ships and tankers who sail those waters regularly. All they allowed to defend themselves with are firehoses and handguns they smuggle on board. I'd like to see the laws change now after this. Mount some 40mm or 5"/54 deck guns on the merchantmen and get the sailors some quality USN gunnery training. One shot across these pirate vessels' bow will send these aids infested bastids steaming back to whatever hole they came from. AAAAAAAAAAARG. :cheers:

Problem is that "we", the self proclaimed leader of the free world, ASSuME these animals think and reason as "we" do. They freeking do not, and will continue doing what they do, as will all the other terrorist factions/groups around the world. The politicians will never realize this. I agree with you Eagle, we should march through that stinkin' hole from one end to the other, and clean out the whole mess. Not only in Somalia, but all the other stink holes too. But of course we never will, as we have not in Korea, Nam, Iraq, etc. etc. This was a small microcosm example of our foreign policy since WW2. We were damn lucky on this one..........

Hooyah! Navy SEALs - Well done shipmates! :USAflag:

You will need the plastic pieces w. the new tranny lines for sure. Maybe on the old line they just rotted away, yes?

The 96-98 heads had a bit more meat for more aggresive porting, and perhaps 25% of them did not have the threaded hole for the gauge temp sensor. Other than that not too much.

Good luck mate.

The 91-95 heads (should be casting # 7120) are also excellent. Both heads are nearly identical. Just avoid the crack-prone 99+ heads. :D

The 96-98 HO head (casting #0630) is generally regarded as the most desirable; a bit more meat, not prone to cracks, and the least troublesome. :D

I've installed it in my 91; took about an hour. All the wiring is built into the harness and it's pure plug-and-play. You need the speed control servo, the cable that runs from it to the throttle bracket, and a new stalk with the cruise wire. But I suspect all you guys are talking about Renix vehicles, that's a bit more involved. :D

83504447 at the dealer Jim. But if I remember correctly I got them at NAPA when I purchased my new tranny cooler lines. EDIT: Here's some on Ebay too HERE

You need to put the plastic piece like below on the hard line otherwise the 4 metal tabs in the quick-connector have nothing to latch on to. Image Not Found

Jim; You are using the collar that slips around the steel line to disco the quick-disconnects, right?

Hmmmmm, that's funny Taz. I picked up a couple of rebuild kits from the dealer and did replace the internals on one of the connectors - worked fine.