HOrnbrod

That's not quite true. Mine's 13 years old and I've never a problem. You get into gray areas when you push the limits, like higher compression with dished pistons and shaved cylinder heads, over-boring, too aggressive a camshaft, etc. Since you are planning to rebuild your donor 91 engine, why not throw in the 4.2 crank, some stock pistons with not cylinder boring (unless needed), maybe a mild cam, the 01 intake, new injectors, a bored throttle body, and keep close to the stock compression ratio with the rebuild? It won't be many more $$ and you'll gain at least a 40-50 ponies minimum and maintain full street reliability. I get 21 MPG on the highway cruising at 70-75, but only 13-14 around town mainly because some fool puts excess pressure on the skinny pedal. There's nothing wrong with keeping it a Renix, but then you'll have the parts scarcity problem which is only getting worse. If you didn't have an HO donor, I'd go along with just rebuilding the Renix engine right. But since you do, go HO. All that's up to you, we can only advise. EDIT: And yeah, I went from 3.55 to 4.10 only because I went with 31" tires. Final drive ratio is just a tad lower than stock. It'll cruise all day at 70MPH and get great mileage.

This is very possible. OP, before doing anything drastic, grab a bottle or two of the Mopar limited slip additive, pour it in the diff and drive it around and see if the clutches might free up on their own. Worth a shot. I get mine on Ebay HERE. Definitely worth a shot.

Nice haul. Everything looks to be in great shape, especially the tails (gate and lights).

Agree.

You can if you use a set of "thick" R&P gears.

I don't believe what any engine manufacturer claims, Nori. I have to see it to believe it. Making statements like "Now the 4.6 stroker makes around the 300 ft lb torque which is way more than a built HO can give you" is an irrational statement mate. Delete your account if you must. Jeesh....

The overflow bottle needs to be vented. On the HO open cooling systems coolant is released when hot through the radiator pressure cap via a hose to the overflow bottle. The liquid then goes down a tube inside the overflow bottle and is discharged under the existing liquid; i.e. it's a bottom feeder. Any pressure bubbles up and escapes through a pinhole in the overflow bottle cap. As the system cools, radiator pressure goes down and coolant is sucked back into the radiator from the bottom of the overflow tank through the radiator cap. Best explanation I've found: Originally Posted by 2002TJ The recovery tank is actually more what you might call an "expansion tank" In the days before recovery tanks, you left an airspace above the water line in the radiator..You NEVER filled a radiator to the top like today...In fact many radiators had a raised reference line stamped into the upper rad tank showing where water level shoud be on cold engine....As engine heated up, pressure in rad would increase and level rise as water swelled in volume...if initial level was too high, then rad cap would lift and relieve excess water to ground via simple rubber hose. Today, if equipped with recovery bottle, you first fill rad to top, then fill recovery bottle to cold mark.....Once engine is heated up to normal temps the level in recovery tank should read well above cold water line and raditor still max full. Cold or hot, with a recovery bottle installed, the radiator should always be full to point water spills over spout neck when you install rad cap And yeah, like the guy said, the system needs to be air tight or it won'twork properly. As designed, and with tight system and full radiator, as engine warms the rad cap lifts and sends heated-expanded excess water to recovery tank via hose from cap neck to recovery tank...Then when engine cools and tank pressure decreases, excess water from hot rad captured in recovery will be sucked back into radiator via same cap thru and hose on cap neck. So therefore, when operated and maintained properly, the raditor will always be totally full and level in tank will never be dry when cold, nor above full mark when hot....Thats why recovery tank is vented whereas radiator is not...The level in recovery tank is expected to change and should as engine water temp changes.

Where do you guys come up with this crap? How do you know you make "around" 300 ft lb? From your super accurate butt dyno? You Renix guys are all yak - yak with no proof. About the only thing I believe above is your "I have never owned a HO..." statement. C'mon Nori, you're normally a sensible guy with excellent advice and not prone to raving. HO peak torque @ 3K RPM = 340 ft lbs, dyno run back in 2008 below. And it's better now. Check it out. Show me yours. https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387&hilit=comanche91&start=15 Just my 2¢...

Why not? I've seen your welds - nonpareil.

After thirteen years with zero problems, I can't complain. And amazingly, all HO parts are still readily available.

The best of both worlds.

Go with an HO stroker.

Did you use scrap exhaust pipe pieces off the floor this time?

XJ rear bumper on an MJ, dasbulliwagen's MJ. I like it.

Sounds like the Trac-Lok clutch packs are worn out; pretty common. Just for grins, jack it up with both wheels off the ground and spin one wheel by hand in neutral. The opposite wheel should spin in the same direction. My used D44 Trac-Lok didn't when I first got it, clutch packs were gone like I had an open carrier. Had them replaced when regearing, and all was well.

Farcebook.

Water pump bolts - grade 8: 3 @ 5/16-18x1-1/8" 1 @ 5/16-18x1-3/4" This is for a 4.0 - @$$ume it's the same for a 2.5?

You're a sick man NC Tom.

Yeah, it was years ago when I had some upholstery work done there. Juarez did nice work also. Figured it has all changed now. That's progress I guess...

No, it's a loaner for test purposes.

Hmmm, never had that problem with either my 12 or 15 JKUs. Do you ever try to tap shift the auto manually up shifting using the Tiptronic feature? Both of mine stick in first occasionally when doing this requiring pulling over and taking the tranny out of gear. I like it to tap downshift when descending a steep grade which always seems to work fine.

Yes, it was a serious question since you don't have your location posted. Tijuana is where everyone who's within driving distance goes for upholstery work. On average, they do great work at about 50% the cost of comparable Stateside shops.

I don't know crap about the newer 4-dr trucks Bo. The tires look smallish; is that the norm now? And yeah, that tint really sets it off.

Tijuana upholstery job?

Anyone try the early S10's?