HOrnbrod

Yep - good point.

Si. Upgraded manual windows to power.

I'm not sure if the Electric Life regulators are a direct replacement for existing factory Mopar or AMC power regulators Wahoo. They bolted right in on the existing mounting points on my MJ, so I assume they will.

Thanks - good advice. Will check it out. I've never used an insurance adjuster before..

I made up a wiring diagram I can send you if you decide to wire in the stock switches.

At least the dash bezel radio hole wasn't blown out. Wonder what happened to the original rear chrome bumper....

I checked the roof as best I could from the ground (there's no way I'm climbing up on it), and it looked okay. The roof pitch on my house is nearly 12-in-12, so maybe that helped. New 30-year shingles in the last three years...

New manual 84-96 XJ/MJ regulators are NLA unless you get lucky. Power regulators are available both as NOS and aftermarket. I installed the Electric Life JE01-K regulators (much faster the the OEMs) and wired in the stock XJ/MJ door switches years ago and they are still working fine. https://www.electric-life.com/product/je01-k-front-2-door-power-window-kit/

Thanks gentlemen. I prefer typhoons, hurricanes, earthquakes, and even water spouts, been through them all, over tornadoes. Bama is a great place to live, except for the damn freaky twisters that pop up nearly year round. And NHMJXJ, I grew up in New England, but I couldn't handle those winters anymore mate.

Thanks Fred. Outlook looks pretty good in B-ham and it looks like the bad stuff will pass just north. All this crap is heading into Ga. now and still going strong.

No sheite... I guess you mean well.

Hella storm cruising at about 50MPH just passed through our area. Tornadoes just north and south of us causing what looks like terrible damage on TV just a mile away. Worst we got was about 10 minutes of golf ball size hail. Of course the MJ and JK were safe in the garage, but my daughters new (to her) Ford Focus took some good hits. Could have been a lot worse. Damn, I hate tornadoes..

Get a regulation Mopar oil pressure sensor and your dash gauge will read actual pressure. Not one from NAPA, Autozone, or any of the other aftermarket junk. The correct Mopar p/n for your truck is 53005218, about $25 on Ebay. Then your dash gauge might even agree with your buddy's mechanical oil pressure gauge if it's calibrated correctly. My stroker has read ~70psi cruising and ~25 psi at idle for years and I'm happy with it.

None that I know of. They are both have the same ohms and wattage rating so either will be fine.

Exactly. OEM stock tires were all ~27" diameter on the pedestrian models, and 3.07 gears was the "best" compromise for normal everyday driving conditions and best fuel economy. Special towing packages and other options were offered those who did more than pedestrian driving.

The pedal assemblies and mounting brackets for the 91 and up MJs and XJs are identical. - same part numbers The pedal assemblies and mounting brackets for the 90 MJs and XJs and below are completely different then the 91 and up. Don't know about the spacing between the two. Maybe you just need the 91 and up bracketry and pedals? Just a thought....

Do you know the p/n of the harmonic balancer you used for the replacement?

What year is your truck? It sounds like the sender you are using is of opposite polarity for your particular model. Also the Delphi HP10148 Fuel Pump Hanger Assembly you used is for an XJ, which is a mirror image of the MJ's assembly, thus your tanks internal baffles are in the way. Hopefully someone here has fitted one to an MJ tank before. I have not.

Power steering pump bolts are not all loosened enough to swing the pump I think. This vid might help - looks like the same config as yours:

Looks like you have a good solid HO platform there to work with. Original paint?

For sure - lot's of nice suspension features. and of course the 5.2. I'd be very interested if it were more "streetified".

That one has the crappy push-on terminals like the OEM resistor. They get loose over time and can fall off.

Thanks for the update Bob.

It's the fuel pump ballast resistor, ~1.3 ohms value. You can replace it with any similarly configured porcelain power resistor of the same value. The Standard RU-13 is a good choice and it has the more secure ring terminals.

Yes. At least 90% of fault codes never trigger the CEL. Do this before anything else.