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HOrnbrod

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Everything posted by HOrnbrod

  1. I think it's a damn good move Jeff. I lived up there for many years and y'all get a mixed bag of rough weather, especially if you live on Chesapeake Bay. Pretty cold winters too. Down here our main threat is tornadoes; and the crappy Mom and Pop local no-power company. When the last batch of tornadoes came through here we lost power for three weeks. I've always had a generator (8Kw) that will run most everything, but it's tough even to find gas to run it when the tornadoes go through. We will have natural gas available here soon, and I've already signed up for a hookup. Then we'll convert the stove, heat pumps, hot water heaters, and other high amp appliances over as we can. nd continue to use the generator for lighting and smaller appliances.
  2. Yeah Eagle, I was trying to remember how many turns vs. the rate of the Pitman arm sweep, but I can't remember. You know how that goes. Look at this link, then click on the spreadsheet link. The ZJ box specs are at the bottom of the spreadsheet. It was very obvious I remember comparing the two on the bench side-by-side. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html
  3. Hope the producers of the various compulsive hoarding TV shows don't see this post. They'll be knocking on your door trying to sign you up for a new episode. :rotf:
  4. For sure they don't Eagle. I tried to get a rebuilt box at a couple of the parts chain houses, and they let me try several "ZJ" boxes by turning it lock-to-lock. They were all the same number turns as my 14.1:1 ratio box. I ended up using a low mileage ZJ box from a 1996 model.
  5. I still love this thing. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19293&hilit=german
  6. All 92-1/2-98 ZJs have the quick ratio ratio. You can ID them by the Alpha codes for the appropriate year that are stamped on the box as follows: 92-1/2-94: AL 95: JH 96: KD 97-98: WK
  7. Not mine Rob. Friends house where we are doing the build. Have no VWs either. If I did it would be an old school Ghia. :cheers:
  8. Progress. Remaining tasks: 1. Tank mounts to level set it higher 2. Shave the aft fiberglass on the tail 3. Seat-to-tank transition fairing 3. Paint This is more fun than working on the MJ. Sometimes..... Image Not Found
  9. Thanks Marcel. Good point on the corrosion. I forgot to do it. :roll: Will do. :cheers:
  10. Reflexxion Automotive Steel Cowl Induction Hood for 84-01 JeepĀ® Cherokee XJ, Manufacturer Part: 731800 Got it on Ebay, it's no longer available.
  11. Since the lift I've been meaning to install bumpstop extensions. I haven't done the front yet using hockey pucks, but did extend the rear stops. I had some 1" thick x 3"-W aluminum flat stock lying around, so I cut two pieces 6" long and made a couple of spacers for the rear bumpstops. Drill out a 7/16" hole in each end, get some longer 10mm bolts, and stick them on. I only needed an inch extension, but you can get the alloy flat stock in just about any thickness.
  12. HOrnbrod

    T shirts

    Thanks Brett, got mine too. :cheers:
  13. Download the 97 manual here: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html
  14. The button is old school term for the distributor cap center contact to the rotor. Since the cap is keyed to only install one way, ?? No idea about three positions. Recheck the wires again to be sure, firing order 153624 and the distributor rotates clockwise. Sounds like it's not right.
  15. Dana 44 front w. ARB, Dana 60 rear w. ARB, 5.38s and 40"-ers. And she's Mean Green beautiful too. Wow, just wow. Outstanding selection for MJOTM. :cheers:
  16. Agree. 42psi (vac off) is too much for a stocker. Again, you're just shooting blanks until you can see real time A/F metered results .
  17. Yuk-yuk cretins. Y'all forget I live in the third world in which 99% of all local small businesses operate strictly with checks or cash. Credit cards strictly verboten. :cry:
  18. You need a wiring diagram for your dash circuits (the FSM is best) for your year model. Start at the VM gauge and follow the + terminal out thru the harness/connectors and see where the VM gets the sensing voltage from. Then go from there. I think it's best attached as close the the + battery post as possible to take advantage of the battery's filtering characteristics. The dash ground point is up under the cluster on a sheet metal screw, a 12AWG black wire attached to the dash brace bracket. Make sure this screw is clean and tight, then run another wire from it to a good chassis ground of your choice.
  19. .... you before you stop writing 2011 on checks, bills, etc.? Takes me usually a couple of months. :???:
  20. :agree: But the VM shows the voltage in the system at the connection of the + terminal sensing wire relative to ground. On the early HOs (maybe the Renix models too) Chrysler tied this connection at one of the PDC main distribution fuse output terminals so the VM registered every minute voltage drop whenever anything was turned. I changed the VM sensing point connection to one near the battery positive terminal, and it smoothed it out a lot as the battery acts like a surge filter. Later on Chryco did the same thing; that's where I got the idea from. :D Also, the gauges common ground point is a small sheet metal screw up under the dash. I left it there, but ran an addition ground wire to a good body ground behind the left kick panel. This gives all the gauges a better ground reference point.
  21. I had a set a Goodyear GSAs early on on the MJ that would vibrate between 35-55 MPH and had them balanced at least four times, once even cutting the tread off with an old machine the supposedly "trued" the tire while spinning it at high speed. Nothing worked, I was ready to junk the tires because they were square. While having some warranty work done on the wife's Malibu, I saw they had a new Hunter Road Force balancer. Brought the MJ in and they immediately ripped off all the old weights and after thirty minutes it was smooth as glass at all speeds. Whole lot less weights too. I've done it this way ever since with zero problems. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=40
  22. Did you even read the OP's original questions?
  23. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32143&p=329384&hilit=load#p329384
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