HOrnbrod

Did you buy it?

I don't think it's static; I think it's ground loops caused by a high impedance ground plane. The first thing you shound do is get a megger test for the ground at your service entrance. Your provider should be able to do this. It's basically a simple test requiring specialized equipment to determine resistance to ground. High resistance, anything over .5 ohm, could be caused by a rotted out ground rod or not installed deep enough to reach the water table, poor soil conductivity, corroded conectors, or other ground impedances. Do you live on a rock bed? That's the #1 cause for a poor ground plane. Used to design build telecomms sites and ground loops could drive you batty because they caused comms hits. Rocky mountain top sites were difficult to get a decent ground. The very first thing we did was verify the ground plane reading with a megger when there were problems. Sidenote: We live on a sandstone mountain and started getting static shocks after installing cable. That's when I did the ground rod upgrade.

The "regular ones" are available everywhere. Would help a bit to know where you are located?

Put in a regulation 10' copper ground rod outside at your service entrance before the panel. Then make sure the neutral and ground busses are tied together inside the electrical main panel. Sounds like your service ground is tied to the water pipes or something, common practice in older homes. I had to do the same thing years ago when I bought my house. If not comfortable doing that, call a licensed electrical contractor to do a ground test at your meter using a megger. Your local electrical supplier might be even check it for free - worth a call to customer service.

To make this clearer, disconnect the neg battery terminal. Use the 10A jacks on your multimeter, and observing polarity, connect the leads in series between the disconnected neg battery cable and the battery neg terminal. You will show an amp reading. Then start pulling the fuses one by one until the amp draw decreases to zero (or near) on the meter. This will put you in the ballpark to see which circuit(s) are causing the amp draw.

Doesn't matter - HV to the plug #1 is the same result. The timing light will trigger if the timed HV signal is there thru the mag pickup. It will also tell you if the timing is completely AFU resulting in a no-start condition. I'd rather do this first than pull the tranny and change flexplates. That's nuts.

You can get these with E-code housings and use H4 halogen bulbs. Not a major downside at all.

The link works fine. http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1337

Try sticking a timing light on it while cranking to see if it syncs with the timing marks on the damper and timing cover. That will tell you a lot.

Posted the p/n's so hopefully you could troll the net and find pics of each and perhaps determine the correct notch layout you'll need for your application. I'm assuming as you are the 53006324 might be golden with your setup.

Johnny, that is one fine looking engine compartment. I see dual electric fans that look like the stocker Jeep fan shrouds. Is that what he's using to stay cool?

Pull the rail off and clean it up on the bench.

AW4 FLEXPLATE Part Numbers 1986-90: 33002675 1991-92: 53006324 1993-95: 52117761 1996-01: 52118551

Sure do Jim - the best. My Mom Linnea was born in Göteborg. She wanted to name me Edvin after her Dad, but my Dad talked her out of it, so they compromised and it's my middle name. They argued about it forever. :yes: Have been most everywhere but never yet to Sweden. Still have lots of relatives still there I have never met. One of these days.......... Välkommen till Comanche klubben SGT.TROUBLE.

I have one coming.

As far as I can tell, the only difference is that the 89 and below MJs had an external helper spring wrapped around the valve arm and splined shaft. The 90 and above did not. But the diagram in the parts manuals is sketchy at best. The valve bodies themselves look identical and I'm certain they were all made by the same manufacturer. My 91 has no external spring; this is the one I'm looking for. The 89 and below and the 90 and above also had a different adjustment procedure and different angle measurement tools required. And of course, as previously stated, I will pay for shipping. No worries. Would like to get this resolved on the bench so it could help everyone decide whether to delete, adjust, or retain.

All credit goes to Pete and his stupid tiny keyboard that caused his fat-fingered response. This unintended omission of a single letter strike provided inspiration for my amusing yet non-offensive response to this hole (sic) matter.

Hoes in the firewall are always a problem. Some of them like baby powder, but it doesn't always do the trick. :teehee:

You mean a BUFF? Big Ugly Fat Flocker? :banana:

Still looking for one.

That's strange. I show Jim with 69 warning points. :hmm:

Let us know if cutting the vent towers does anything - good or bad.

Thanks for sharing your heavenly experience.

I like selling to Ebay idiots. :agree: x 10,000. Especially MJ'ers. And I are one. :yes:

Paid $225 for mine - w. TracLok. http://comancheclub.com/topic/25998-dana-44-w-trac-lok/page__hl__dana