HOrnbrod

I believe he's looking for the ECU Frank, not a tranny. 91-92 manual tranny - same ECU.

Ah okay - understand now. Nobody makes them that I've been able to find.

Yes I do. :yes: 4.10 D44 with Yukon "thick" gears, Honda Passport Trac-Loc limited slip 2.72 - 3.73 carrier. No problems.

Yes, the servo is engaging electrically when you turn cruise on, vacuum is applied, and it pulls the throttle via the cable. Problem is it's not disengaging until you manually disconnect the cable. If the cable is okay, I don't see what else it can be except the servo.

Sounds like the servo is engaging okay, but since it won't shut off electrically with the brake or stalk switch, it's sticking internally. AFAIK, you can't service these as they are sealed units. First make sure the servo cable itself isn't binding, then I'd replace the servo on the right fender well with one from the junkyard. Any servo from a 91-96 XJ/MY is a direct replacement.

Keep in mind that two 1997+ XJ 10-blade fans will pull more CFM of air than three aftermarket 10" fans. At the expense of pulling more amps. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/electric-cooling-fan-cfm-rating-tests-results-1182706/

Who cares? The seller is trying to get the most he can for his MJ, as we all would do. No need to comment/badmouth/criticize/disagree or whatever you want to call it on the wording of his description without an inspection. As always, buyer beware, and do the homework. That being said, it's a over-reaction by the seller in drama CAPS on Ebay to the world. Anyone who is not a CC member would even understand what he's trying to say.

It's the "Flash to Pass" fuse. The circuit enables you to flash the HI beams when you pull the multifunction switch stalk toward the steering wheel. It's a constant hot circuit that does terminate on the dimmer switch HI contact and it will flash your HI beams even when the headlamps are off. You have a short somewhere between this fuse and dimmer switch if it keeps blowing. Do your headlamp HI beams work normally with the dimmer switch?

Plenty on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-JEEP-CHEROKEE-ENGINE-ECM-ELEC-CONT-UNIT-ECU-LH-FENDER-6-242-4-0L-MT-CANADA-/370758976675?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5652f504a3&vxp=mtr

I have a 31" spare under the bed - plenty of room under there even dual exhausts. A 32" tire should fit under the bed just fine. But I guess you had to do what you had to do because you wanted to. Nothing wrong with that.

I thought in your first post you said you had a new coil installed? :hmm: Since you cleaned the ECU connector, try to flash the fault codes again. The text in RED above if correct is probably causing the no-start condition. Check all the fuses with an ohmmeter in the PDC and the fuse panel on the drivers side interior firewall. If you're not getting power to the ECU it will never start.

Yes, this is true for the Renix. Forgot about that - my error.

The stator is inside the distributor. It has a 2-wire pigtail with a connector on the outside the distributor. There should be 12V (battery voltage) across those pins. Suggest you invest in a digital multimeter. Item #4 in the below image.

I've had the coil hanging by a tie-wrap ungrounded in an emergency and the engine will still run. One more thing to try: Disconnect the ECU 60-pin connector and douche it down with some good electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush. Also inspect each pin to see if any of them are recessed (pushed in). The last guy I was helping with a no-flash condition when checking fault codes had a bad ECU. Hopefully it's something different for you.

Do you have 12V to the distributor stator connector?

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1041451&highlight=CS144

Injectors. Lol.

That's because you are very lucky to have a "custom" sterring wheel with a spacer thingy. Fortunately, the factory steering wheels are not like that.

The regulation XJ factory slush mats fit better than those. Plus they are embossed with the "JeeP" logo and don't slide around. Approx. the same $$

Nyet. Early XJ/Wagoneer front/rear regulators are completely different. Late model XJs are too. :thumbsup: EDIT: Was this question some kind of test? I'm sure you knew that Jim. Si?

With a steering wheel puller.

That is the vacuum actuator. If it only works on high because it either has a busted diaphragm, is sticking, or isn't getting enough vacuum on the other speeds besides HI to actuate it because of a vacuum leak. Give her a rag when it rains and have her wipe the windshield when it fogs up until you get it fixed.

I did? :doh: I'd still check the kickdown solenoid resistance to eliminate it from the equation.

There are three solenoids in the AW4; one is for TC lockup. Have you checked the solenoid(s) resistance with an ohmmeter? This can be done w/o pulling the tranny pan by disconnecting the cable that runs from the TCU to the AW4 behind the engine; it's a white connector. Shoot me a PM and I'll send you the AW4 manual that shows the pinouts.

Which one is Dad? :yes: