HOrnbrod

Years ago we ate at his BBQ place in Jasper - damn good Q. I think it's closed now though.

http://www.swaybars.com/detail.asp?productid=5334 Short bed only - mounts to the upper shock bolts with angle brackets. Poor design IMO. A better option is a rear sway from an S10 or Blazer. The length is correct; end links and mounts to the frame will have to be fabbed. Image Not Found

Or you could always go this route:

Too much side-to-side rolling with the stock suspension causing rollovers. However if the rear suspension were beefed up slightly like the below, it should be fine.

The MAINT REQ lamp comes on at around 85K miles as a reminder to change your O2 sensor. That's it's only purpose in life AFAIK. The dealer can reset it with a DRB2, but I simply removed the bulb. It's cheaper. The CHECK ENG fault codes will not extinguish unless the fault is repaired after 50 key recycles or by leaving your battery disconnected overnight (sometimes). The dealer can also clear them with the DBR2, but they will come right back on if the fault(s) remains. For a list of the codes go here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/

Way to go Mini Butterbean. :yes: Just raggin - congrats on your true Beast MJOTM.

Yep, the more I think about it the more I think that's the way to do it. That means dropping the rear spring perches, jacking up the axle, the disassembly of the leaf pack to get the pin holes lined up. Maybe I can loosely C-clamp the springs and drive a tapered drift pin up through the leafs to align the holes. Would be easier to just replace the packs, but my MT leaf packs are fine. I'll figure something out. What I'm curious about is why the dayem pins broke in the first place. :hmm:

Does Spidertrax even make 2" spacers for 5 on 4-1/2" wheels? I thought they only made them in 1.25" and 1.50" sizes. :hmm:

Nowadays they use a laparoscope for gallbladder removal; much less intrusive than the old slash and dig surgery. It used to be one of the longest surgeries to recover from, like months. Using laparoscopic surgery recovery time is reduced to a few days. My wife had it done last year. She was up and about the next day. Progress is good..................... in some cases. :yes:

http://www.dkhardware.com/replacement-latches-and-older-powr-slider-rebuild-kits_ZC2146M0P1.html

So much for that idea. No more after hours working there - new insurance rules. :cry: Almost positive Eagle. And my MT springs are aftermarket.

Bummer. But that's better than a fubar ignition system. Guess that's why fuel tanks are underbody and the fillers are behind a filler door with a pressure cap. Maybe you can adapt a screw-on cap on the cell neck that vents? Or a bed shell topper that keeps everything dry?

Appreciate the suggestion Remi. :cheers: But since I'm a very lazy bastid and like to do things the easy way whenever possible, it's makes sense to run it over to our small Chevy dealership in town after hours, use their body lift to drop the rear end, disco the ubolts, jack the axle up on stands and do the dirty deed with the leaf packs still connected. Might have to spring for a couple of cases of Miller HL though, but that's cool.

Yeah, figured it would be tons of fun Bo. AARGG. Will be a good time to pull the 3* steel shims out from under the axle too.

Good plan Alex. IIRC the existing pins are 5/16". Would like to replace them with larger pins, at least 3/8". How hard is it to drill through the individual spring steel leafs? Never did this before.........

I'd stick with the chief decals Chief. Since you are/were one. Me too. FTC back in the day. :cheers:

I don't know what tires you are running, but when I had the 31" BFG M/T tires on, the slightest throttle would break the rear end free in the rain. I junked those and put on some Michelin LTX A/Ts and it doesn't do it anymore. Unless of course I tromp on it. And what plugs are you running? My Hesco motor doesn't like anything but Champion RC10 plugs. Anything else and I get an occasional misfire.

Was under the truck re-torquing my MT spring u-bolts, and reached up and could freely spin the center pins in each spring. Obviously the center pins are snapped inside. There has been no movement of the individual leafs; all are lined up are can not move up/down or left/right because the u-bolts hold them tight. No worries with the broken center pins, right?

Moved this announcement to the Pub where more folks will see it. This is good news Tom. :cheers:

You need longer end links over stock when you do a lift. The stock 92 MJ/XJ and up links are about an inch longer, and the MOOG K80035 end links as used on the rear sway bar of some Ford F350s are yet another inch longer. This is a pic of the Ford F350 links:

Wood (sic) look better if it had a contrasting border around the panels, like this Ranchero. I used to like the vinyl roofs too.

Your original post on this topic is here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39328-91-92-mj-fuel-gauge-senders/?do=findComment&comment=395903 91-92 MJ fuel gauge sender pots are 105 ohms (Empty) to 5 ohms (Full) Fuel gauge inop checks: 1. Turn IGN to RUN 2. Disconnect fuel gauge sender connector. Needle should go to EMPTY. 3. If it does not, you either have an open between the sender connector to the cluster, or the fuel gauge itself is bad (unlikely). Do these checks first. If step 2 fails, you then have to check for continuity between cluster connector B1 and the fuel sender connector. You really need an 1991 FSM to work on stuff like this. 1991 was the first year for OBD1, and there were quite a few wiring schemes unique to the 91. Same for the 96 XJs, the first year of OBD11.

Nothing will "swap in" and work correctly and accurately that's not from a 91-92 MJ. Not an XJ or older Renix MJ unit. "Swapping wires" because the polarity is different has to be done internally on the sender, but it still will not read accurately since the potentiometers are of different values. This thread will explain most of it: http://comancheclub.com/topic/15047-ho-fuel-sending-unit/ There is a test in the FSM to test the gauge w/o pulling the sender; I'll look it up later and post. A faulty gauge is seldom the problem though. There are also outfits that will repair fuel sending units, but you'll have to pull it to see what the problem is. Could be something as simple as a broken wire on the potentiometer.

I too replaced my drive shaft with a Tom Woods unit because my original could not be balanced. After I did my lift I had a vibration that started at about 35MPH and ended at 55MPH while accelerating. The new shaft had the same 1310 u-joints you got. Since the shaft was new along with my lift and regear, I went through everything else first: tranny drop, axle shims, rechecked the gears, etc. Nothing helped, so I finally replaced the u-joints with Dana 1310 greasables. They were the problem for me - instantly the vibes were gone. Just relaying my experience - I have no idea if your vibes are being caused for the same reason. Sounds similar though.....

This worked for me: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37992-2wd-uca-bushing-replacement/?hl=press&do=findComment&comment=382317