HOrnbrod

The 80 watts they claim is what it would take an incandescent bulb to produce the lumen equivalent provided by this LED bulb, so Ohms law doesn't apply. Advertising wordsmithing as all LED bulb manufacturers do. I stuck my ammeter in series using test leads and verified slightly less that a one amp draw on the 10A scale for both LED bulbs. No worries for the factory wiring...........

Just make sure your Ram has 1156 compatible bulb sockets. And yep, love the LED headlamps; I have them on all my junk. Even the Deere riding lawn mower. :yes:

I currently have halogen 1156 bulbs for my backup lights, but they left a lot to be desired, plus they drew about 1.5A/each. I'd heard good things about these CREE LEDs so I thought I'd give them a try. I picked up a pair of Genssi 80W 1156-compatible bulbs with the Cree chipset on Amazon for less than $20 shipped HERE. I suck at taking pics at night, but these bulbs are at least twice as bright as the 1156 halogens and draw less than an amp total. They are focused pretty well for a straight back beam, not just splashing the light in a useless halo. Well worth the $$ to me. Hopefully they will have a long life.

Have to say after reading your troubleshooting process your logic seems sound and it certainly appears that the float has some negative buoyancy preventing it from floating on the surface of a full tank of fuel. I've seen this before in fuel sending units due to a cracked/liquid-logged float, but not on an MJ sender. Either that or the float arm is getting hung up inside the tank somehow and the arm can't fully rise to the top. Hopefully it becomes obvious when you yank the assembly out of the tank..........

I've run Mobil 1 for eleven years in my Deere with a 501cc B&S four stroke engine (it's a rider) with zero problems. It gets an oil change, lube, and new filter every winter. I keep waiting for it to break so I can get a new zero turn Deere, but it refuses to break.

Most likely your wiper linkage bushings are shot. Replacement Procedure

No sheite. Great info and correct. OP, you should fix the sway bar anyhow.

That's them. I got them originally for my JK to provide a little more clearance for the fatter rear OME shocks I use, but they work even better on the MJ front sway bar. The brackets move the sway bar down and forward and provide a bit over an inch of clearance between the end links and coil springs. They also maintain the optimum bar end geometry, 10-20 degrees above horizontal.

Your sway bar end links are too short plus the bushings are shot. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48447-sway-bar-end-links/?hl=synergy&do=findComment&comment=493423

I haven't done it often and it's been many years ago. I've never used any sealant on freeze plugs and they never leaked. But that doesn't mean it's right.........

Looks good. :cheers: Now would be a good time to do the plugs on the side of the block too.

........on Amazon for $43.36 shipped. Good deal if you need one - normally over $100. http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU871-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7W3LU/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1461168221&sr=8-1&keywords=CU871

That's great! Was hoping someone could use that hitch. :cheers:

Sure you did.

Wow, they must be bright. I couldn't even see the white car in the before picture. :rotfl2:

Should I get the later model plugs? They come in copper...but not sure if they are the correct size I'd use them if the size was right.

Get them in brass if possible so they don't rot out again. Usually when one goes the others follow.

Yet another faux pas in the Factory Parts Manual............. Well, at least you know what you need to get now.

That doesn't look like a snap ring or lock washer. It looks like a piece of broken spring. Is the transmission lock pawl engaging/disengaging when you go in and out of PARK?

Yes, I was wrong - missed the 2.5 engine part. :doh: I'll let the OP pick out which part he needs. From his pics it looks like #2, but #3 sounds like the plug he needs in the parts list.

P/n J3105394 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-J3105394-Engine-Expansion-Plug-Expansion-Plug-/261521311326?hash=item3ce3e2865e:g:6uoAAOSwT6pVpSkG&vxp=mtr The problem will be getting to it. Pulling the head would be best....................

He's probably torn down thousands of AW4 / A340 trannies and knows every part intimately. But I'm with you - I couldn't work like that...........

The 86 2.5L had a knock sensor on the intake manifold, p/n 33000902. Looks like it was dropped on the 87 and up engines though.........