HOrnbrod

P/n 55018893. This is the complete black plastic insert piece w/o the furry slot for the e-brake lever like those on Jeep XJ floor consoles. I was surprised to see that it's still available from many Mopar parts houses for around $31-$36 + shipping. Yes, some parts places list things even though they are not in stock, but everyone seems to stock this piece. They can't all be lying. :yes: I'd buy one but I already have one. Example: https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-cover-e-brake-finish-55018893

That's a cop out, and you know it'll never happen. I know it too because I do the same thing sometimes. :yes: It's not a pleasant job w/o the proper tools, and running around with shot spring bushings isn't going to be life threatening. Might as well wait until your spring leafs are shot, then replace the whole spring. It's easier than replacing the bushings too. :thumbsup:

Hope that doesn't come back to bite you in the azz; it usually does. Dielectric grease should never be used on electrical contacts as it's non-conductive. It's use is for coating the connector mating surfaces to keep out moisture.

I don't know. Never had a problem like that or been in there. :dunno:

When you "aligned" it, which adjusting sleeve did you turn; the one on the drag link that connects to the Pitman arm, or the one on the tie rod?

The aux fan comes on w. the A/C and/or when the engine temp reaches ~230 or so. Mine never comes on before that even after trying different temp sensors in the thermostat housing. My dash temp gauge could be reading high too....

There are many ways: Leaf spring bushing press: https://www.google.com/search?q=Leaf+spring+bushing+press&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Nobody sells bushings (that I've found) for MJ shackles. Replace them with these (or equivalent: http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=53478&SEName=722-019

I think you are referring to: Push Nut, J4000369

Hell yeah!

Get a Prius then. :rotfl2:

MJ rear bumpers were optional back in the day........

Does this mean we should leave our images on PB for the time being and not delete our accounts? Do not delete your PhotoBucket account. The coding required to accomplish what Pete is referencing as "the plan" requires your account to be there. First Alex needs to finish the move. Then PhotoBucket gets fixed on CC. Have no worries. :thumbsup:

Good point. There's an constant hot terminal on the HO diagnostic connector that's easy to get to, so I'll use that in the future when I disconnect the + battery cable. Sometimes I just disco the ground cable from the truck battery, so a good ground point for the 9V battery is easy to find. Then the 9V + battery lead goes on the + battery terminal.

Good explanation Gene. I picked up the 9V battery adapter like in the pic for the lighter socket, but it didn't fit the Jeep socket. So I cut off the lighter plug-in and added some longer wires and alligator clips. Then you hook it up in parallel before discoing the battery cables. There's no overcharge problem from the little 9V battery and it holds the memory for hours.

I have the larger 97 Mopar fuel injectors in my stroker running at 49psi. I have monitored the fuel pressure while cranking and it is ~30psi until it starts, then jumps up to the set regulator pressure pressure of 49psi instantly. So I'd say lower pressure while cranking is normal.

Depending on all the vehicle changes from the factory settings (engine wise), short and long term fuel trim strategies would require miles of driving to re-learn their values. That's what I'm thinking too Ωhm. With the stroker engine, bigger injectors, throttle body, etc. I have maybe it takes longer because it's so different than the stock ECU trim settings it causes a lengthier learning process. :dunno: Would be nice if we could flash these old OBD1 computers..........

Almost makes you want a RENIX, doesn't it? :) Really. What a kludgy design.................. There's the comment I was expecting from a Renix peanut gallery lowlife. :rotf:

I know. :yes:

Almost makes you want a RENIX, doesn't it? :) I was expecting a comment like this from some lowlife in the Renix peanut gallery, but never thought it would be you Mikey. I'm shocked, and deeply hurt............

I'm having a hard time visualizing this, but it's very intriguing. Please elaborate. It's a variation of the lighter receptacle battery adapter below. It supplies 9VDC to "keep alive" the ECU and retain it's memory when the battery is disconnected. I just hook my 9V battery to the - battery post and the disconnected + cable using alligator clips.

Interesting. I can have the 12V disconnected for a second or a week, and it still acts the same - 30-40 miles before it drives normally again. Tried two ECUs also, samo-samo.

Whenever you disconnect the battery to do some maintenance, the ECU "learning process" has to start from scratch again on reconnect. This is normal. During this learning time my truck idles very low, sometimes stalling when stopping unless you feather the throttle, and it's a PITA until the ECU gets smart again and starts behaving normally. I usually hook up a 9V battery across the positive cable and battery post air gap - if I remember - and this retains the ECU memory. But I forget to do it more than I remember. My question is: How long mileage-wise does it take your truck to complete the ECU learning process? Mine takes about 30-40 miles minimum of driving around until it's back to normal.

Oh, okay, I guess THIS SITE is lying then. This is true AFAIK for the Renix and OBD1, but not all the OBD2 stuff.

A quick search reveals this info: Crankshaft Sensor, 068281273aa, Sensor-Crankshaft Position Description:THIS IS FOR 2.5 4CYL JEEP and DAKOTA. IT WILL NOT FIT A 4.0 INLINE 6 OF ANY YEAR. IF YOU HAVE A 4.0 AND YOU HAVE A 97-99 JEEP CHEROKEE(xj) YOU NEED PART# 56027866AC. 94-96 4.0 AUTO PART # 56026921. 00-01 PART#56027866AE Please provide VIN at time of check out for confirmation. The correct p/n for the 97 4.0 in the parts manual is 56027866AB. Yet Chrysler Parts Direct says p/n 068281273aa has been superseded to 68281273AA. :hmm: I think I'd go with p/n 56027866AB as it says in the 97 parts manual.

What was the CPS Mopar part number you used?