yellaheep

MJ trailers are nothing but cool! I'm excited to see what you come up with! One suggestion..... Skip the lift springs. You don't want low hanging leaf packs on a trailer dragging on the trail. Just invest in a large tube trailer axle (cheaper than new spring packs too), put it spring-under and adjust height to match your rig with an add a leaf or shackles if you need higher. Also consider a sway bar since you're talking about using a topper and roof rack. Someone on here recently found that the rear sway bar from a Chevy s10 ZR-1 package Blazer mounts nicely using WJ link rods and XJ rear sway spring plate brackets.....

Thanks for the pics Darren! Yeah that's what I'm hoping to avoid. I don't think I'll need to go that low for what I'm wanting to do with it.

Oops. Did some organizing in my 'bucket and it must have trashed the links. Should be all fixered up now. :thumbsup:

I was asked if I would be looking to add a front air dam and/or side skirts......... Yep. If I make one, I'm looking at doing a rubber sheet mounted to the bottom edge of the bumper and come around to meet the lower corner of the front flare. The early S-10/S-15/Bravada air dams also look like they'd work well: "Skirts" I'm on the fence about.

Jim must be a silver-tongued devil if he gets that $3K MJ for his usual $400.......... :yes:

Yeah it's tight in there, particularly on the drivers side. It's bump-stopped to keep the UCA from hitting the motor mount bracket. The trackbar bracket is an inch or so from the diff. The D30 and all that OEM steering and stuff will be tossed in favor of a 2wd axle, rod ends and DOM links.

Dropped the rear. 3" block for now. I may play with removing the overload leaves and the mid-leaves to see how it sets and go with a 1.5"-2" block this summer. I've learned that the rear sway bar from a ZR1 Blazer, the stock links from a WJ and XJ rear link brackets makes a sweet setup. So I plan to get that fabbed up, then I'll play with the leaf packs & blocks. I'm probably gonna have to shorten that load sensor valve rod...... lol.

Got some progress on the race MJ. About 2.5" drop up front by cutting 2 coils from the OEM springs. Added stiff shocks front and rear as well. Unfortunately I couldn't find any long u-bolts to get the rear done. Front done with rear at stock height and 235 75 15 tires: Rear with the race wheels: What I cut out:

Right, so to be sure that everyone is clear........ the knuckles will interchange, it's the brake calipers that will not. That bit I was fully aware of when I posted. Comanchemodder: PM received, lemme know if and when you want it. :thumbsup:

Why wouldn't the knuckle interchange? The inner "C's" are the same as what's on a D30..... Later 2wd axles used unit bearings with stub shafts.......particularly 2wd Cherokees with ABS. :dunno: Comanchemodder: I have a 2wd axle with good spindles. PM me and we can discuss getting one to ya. :thumbsup:

How to avoid the twist of death with a receiver mounted 12K lb winch? Put that 12K lb boat anchor on craigslist then go get a 8K-9K lb winch mounted to a proper winch bumper. You'd be hard pressed to twist anything with this winch mount set up....... Image Not Found

PM me. We'll work out the details. :thumbsup:

The rear window on our MJ's actually glues in just like the windshield. Unless you're going to install an aftermarket slider window with a full frame. In order to replace an OEM one-piece rear window, you'll want the rubber "trim" that installs around the edge of the glass just before being glued in place. It's not a gasket, just trim to cover the 1/4" gap. If you can find the glass, I may be willing to part with one of the rubber trim surrounds that I have in my parts pile.......

There's 2 brackets per side.....front and rear. Those are riveted to the slider. The slider bolts to the seat frame. I have a drivers side slider with brackets $40 + shipping from 80122? PM if that works for ya.

Easy fix. Called the guy that made the spacers and I was supposed to receive keyed lug nuts with a socket, not the nuts I got. He sent them out to me that same day and is including extra nuts and another socket. :thumbsup:

I'm with ya Rob. I have plenty of respect for Corvettes but they're not my bag. I like the look of the 60's era cars but I've not driven a Vette that had me wanting one.

Separating the ferrous and non ferrous metals generally yields the most money. But you have to weigh the time investment to separate it all as well. Painted aluminum will pay less than "clean" aluminum. For example, I hauled off a complete Chevy Lumina for free. I decided to see what I could get for the car pieced out vs. as a whole. Scrapping the whole car at the time would have come to $450-$475. I separated the tires from the aluminum wheels, broke down the engine taking the aluminum heads, intake, brackets. Pulled the valves from the heads. Removed the alternator and starter. Removed the battery and radiator. Cut out the catalytic converters. Removed the aluminum control arms front and rear. After scrapping the body, and recycling the aluminum bits, alternator, starter, battery, wheels, cats I netted just under $700. The time investment was about 8 hrs. ........ I've not done a teardown like that since. Not worth the time investment to me. What I generally do is grab a whole car as cheap as I can get it, list it for parts for a week or two, then strip the cats, battery and aluminum wheels to recycle and be done with it. Brass radiators too if it has one.

Would SOOOOO jump on that. Even if the other side was caved in.......

LOL....... indeed. Every day, 4 days, 10 hr shifts. The County I work for has been in a pay-freeze for going on 5 years now. Luckily I've been there 23 years and am topped out, but for the new guys with 6 or less years on..... that "I pay your salary" blurb?....... them's fightin' words. :laughin:

Figured I'd better mock these dually wheels up using the 235/85/16's on them and see how they fit/look....... I like! They're almost a 32" tire and all appears to be a good size when paired with the 3.5" suspension lift up front. :thumbsup: Unfortunately....... I'm gonna have to send the spacers back for modification. The holes for the mounting lugs aren't large enough to get any sort of socket inside to tighten the lug nuts....... :banghead:

Don't let 'Ol Jim fool ya...... that's just his on-line persona. He's actually a gorgeous 20-something big-breasted blond gal......... :yes:

Thanks! Yeah I'm not into the chromed/polished "XD" or funky 19" + sized wheels even on the full sized trucks. I think a 16" wheel will look proportional on the MJ. I considered stock steel wheels painted black or a light gray with chrome trim rings but damn those steel wheels are heavy. These aluminum wheels are easily half the weight.

More parts success...... Picked up a decent set of wheels today. 16x6.5 and lug-centric so no worries with them fitting the front adapters and rear axle. The tires are junk, so I'll have them dismounted then have the wheels polished. Hoping i can still get center caps.....

Damn Donkeys. :wall:

That was awesome! Really gets me excited to get going on my race truck!