pilotblake

The best deals I have found on comanches on CL is when you search for "camanche" A) they have no knowledge of jeeps and B) they think they are just another old vehicle. Which maybe they are but...........

What years for the taurus fans? also what is needed to run them two speed?

27 as of the 11th of this month

What is your source for these fans? SPAL fans are way too high priced?

They said there website is down for remodeling or improving etc. This is the link that I found to get the phone number. http://www.superiorradiator.com/

Well as much as I hate to do so I think I am going to just throw money at Manche and hope for the best. I like to keep things to a minimal as far as complex systems, so I am going to try a different radiator. Here is what its down too: Summitt sells one for - $499 + s/h. It says it is for a SBC conversion. I would have to take there word. won't ship till first of may Griffin Radiator will make one for $565 + $40 s/h. The guy says it will do the job easily. 2 week build time U.S Radiator needs me to send in my old one as a template, and prices START at $500 + s/h Northen Radiator does not make one, they said to see if they had something else that would fit The winner in my book both for cost and accountability is Superior Radiator. They will make one for $320 + $40 s/h. The guy said that they have a guy in the office or was good friends with a guy that has an XJ with a supercharged 360 and that he hasn't had any problems overheating. He sounded sincere, you can ususually pick up on if people are full of sh!% anybody had any positive/negative encounters with Superior Radiator or any of the above mentioned?

I kept reading a couple lines and then scrolling down reading a couple lines not realizing how long it truly was, if he thought those up as he was typing :bowdown: ......but I have my doubts.

So............does TNT have the record for the longest post EVER or what? I hope he copied and pasted that from somewhere.

I am fairly sure my temp sensor is reading right. I havent used a heat gun or anything, but I put a 160 stat in for the winter and when the thing would first warm up the temp would rise then level off at 160-180 but then on the highway would not drop any lower than 160. With the thermostat out it would never get to 160 on the road. How would I run 2 radiators or extra cooling tank. I do have another all aluminum closed loop style radiator in the garage that is new. How do I join the two? And at what point do do I upgrade the water pump?

You make a good point about the noise of the fans with a bed mounted radiator, I never thought about that. I have thought about making the air cleaner connect to the passenger side of the rear opening in my hood, but my concerns are rain or whater getting in, and the effects of high pressure low pressure of air moving over the hood at speed actually pulling air from the system. I have two electric fans that run constantly on the radiator right now. Do you think the summit radiator http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BCI%2D60088&N=700+4294924927+4294908280+4294908279+4294924500+4294839040+115&autoview=skuwould do the trick. I have the cash in hand to buy it, but for $499 I want to make sure all my research is done and it will work. It claims 350-400HP max and I'm not above that. If I knew of someone that could help me relocate a different steering pump I would probably go that route, but being as critical as it is I hate to mess with it too much. actually it is this radiator but it doesn't say anything about the max horsepower? Inlet and outlet are wrong on the first one. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BCI%2D60185&N=700+115&autoview=sku

:agree: Stupid rated...haaahaaa, they should start this..call it soccer mom or mall rated edition

I have tried everything to make sure all the air was out including the bleed screw and steep inclines and declines. This is a slightly more recent view of the current cheapo aluminum radiator setup

Do you happen to have a picture of the airbox setup, I'm not sure if I am looking up the right thing. And I think the WJ steering box swap would be alittle more intensive then I want to go. I still drive this thing down the road and I don't want to be anymore of a hazard to other drivers than it already is. What is involved in moving the radiator to the bed? would I need a new water pump?

If I have adjustable upper and lower arms do i still need to put the shims and bracket deal in the lower control arm pocket(the deal with the two bolts that stick out the back of the pocket?) can't this adjustment be made on the arms themselves. Also I had to add a couple washers on the upper arms to fill the space between the new upper arm brackets.

I would swear I have them right, but when I put the bracket on the bottom hole that is round I am off on the very top where it is oblong and bolts onto the UCA pocket. I also had to beat the lower control arm bracket into place since the old pocket was squished in alittle to the width of the control arm joint. I swear if it wasn't for bad luck I would have no luck at all. When I get home I will look at it again, I just hate to start tweaking the new stuff till I know what is the culprit.

It is a mid 80s I think?, and I don't have an airbox just a small filter till I can find something better. The OEM style breather doesn't fit with my intake and distributer. My end goal is a snorkle but they are expensive and impossible to find used. This isnt a current picture but it is pretty much the same as it is now, except the new aluminum radiator took the place if the one that is in the picture.

Yeah you told me that awhile back, and i cuss you for your good fortune...just kidding ..or am I :headpop: I wish you lived closer, I would have you look at my setup and let me know what I'm doing wrong. Because I am correct in thinking an all aluminum radiator designed for a 4.0 has more cooling capacity than the 2.8 right? Could this aluminum radiator since it was on the cheaper side of the all aluminum radiator department just be a piece of junk? Also my chevy will fire right off just tapping the ignition when it is in the 160-180 range, but when it is 200+ is floods itself or vaporises(sp) the fuel and it cranks and cranks then sputters to life. It seems to like to run cooler I just can't keep the temps down. And that is with normal driving.

Yeah I built this hood in hopes of getting the heat out but to no joy. It is open in the back and you can feel the hot air coming out from the fans. I am thinking something needs to be done in the radiator department.

If the original authors or anybody since this post was started reads this.....I am installing the rough country control arm drops. I am having trouble getting the side bracket that hold the UCA in place. The bolt holes do not line up even with the upper hole being oblong on the top side of the bracket. Also I have my control arms screwed in as far as they would go to keep the axel close to where it was before, is this normal. My truck actually has the same looking LCAs as the maroon truck in this thread, including ride height. Any other words or advice on this install would be great also.

I need some advice on a radiator for my truck. I bought a cheap..er? ($180) stock replacement sized all aluminum radiator, and had a friend tig the inlet and outlet holes to the opposite sides to fit the chevys hose setup. The radiator does have the bulit in trans lines which I do not use. I have two electric fans that run constantly. Anyhow the truck worked fine in the winter and stayed around 160-190 where I wanted it, but now there has been some 50-60 degree days and the truck gets up to 200-220+ going down the highway and normal driving with a 160 thermostat. I know I can take the thermostat back out and it will help, but I am looking for a fix not a bandaid. So if you are still with me after that long intro here are my questions. 1) Has anybody used this radiator? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BCI%2D60185&N=700+115&autoview=sku I know you get what you pay for, but for this price am I going to be completely satisfied? I am not a hardcore wheeler, but the truck will see alot of offroad time. 2) The truck has a normal bed on it, but I have thought about mounting a full size radiator in the back with big electric fans, but then would I need an electric high volume water pump and then am I going to overload my electrical system and eat up alternators, plus spend more money than the formentioned radiator and get the same results? 3) Does anyone have any other ideas, pictures, writeups anything that might help. Summer is right around the corner and I want to get this problem under control. Thanks in advance.

This is a good thread :cheers:. They say it is the darkest right before dawn, but I would swear when you think things are going good is when you get kicked in the shorts. My wife, family, and I are in good health but these financial times the economy is in are really starting to wear. Plus we just found out we owe a substantial amount in taxes. I am thankful for everything that is going good and hope the same for everyone on here. I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but I am a bottle feelings up kinda person and it feels good to get them out somewhere.

If it is a 4x4, you need to find someone on here that has a 2wd and trade them. In the world of guys dreaming of doing the 4wd swap, that is just a shame. On the other hand you should notch and bag it so it can sit in the weeds when you park it. I'd like to see a comanche laying sparks too.

I think you need some taller tires :cheers:

As "Queen" put it..."another one bites the dust"

Saying nobody wants it is alittle harsh :smart: . I have 40 acers and plenty of fence line, I would take the truck if it was closer :doh: .