kar120c

Ran MTL in a T5, NV3550 and AX-15. Never had any problems, all trans had 150+k on them with the fluids. :dunno: T5 was especially picky. First AMC recommended ATF then later switched to 90w gear oil. Later they said use GL-3 I think. Shifted like crap with all oils until I tried MTL (80w). Worked great, smooth shifting and no noisy gears. I've come to find that AMC / Jeep never really made up their mind on correct oil for their manual transmissions. It has always changed back and forth to one or another. :hmm:

You can't go wrong with Royal Purple or Redline IMHO. I've had various manual transmissions between the multiple jeeps I've owned and have used Redline MTL in all of them.

I've been doing lots of reading and have gathered most of the tools needed to do the job. I have plenty of time and a spare rear end to practice with though. You could very easily spend over $200 just for the tools, rebuild kit, and ring/pinion. If you are comfortable turning wrenches and have patience, you could check out the pirate4x4 article. Lots of pics and very detailed. Otherwise, I'd check with another shop. Granted not all areas are the same, but 900 for just one axle is way to expensive IMHO. I spent 1375 (parts and labor) for front and rear re-gear with full rebuild kits at a local 4wheelparts store. If you have a complete donor axle available, I say go that route. Probably easiest and cheapest option. :thumbsup: http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/ ... Gear_Setup

The regular price was $129 and I had a 20% coupon so I paid just a little bit over $100. Will definately pay for iteself as I'm doing ujoints again this weekend. Had a wheel bearing pressed a few weekends back which ran $17 at the shop. Almost forgot, it was the 12 ton model shown here http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-sho ... 33497.html

I can't believe I've gone so long without a hydraulic press. I picked one up on sale this weekend at Harbor Freight. Granted it is hand-operated and not a fancy electric press, holy hell I love this thing. I just replaced a ujoint and it took me all of about one minute. Few months ago I had to replace the ujoints on my half-shafts and it tooks hours pounding away with a BFH like a giant knuckle dragging gorilla. :banana:

We don't have self-serve here in Oregon. :headpop: It is funny though to go into Washington state and watch cars with Oregon plates pull up to a pump. Drivers usually look at the pumps in awe as if they've never seen one before. :doh:

Do you have a name or the .mil address? If you do, send me a PM if you'd like. I can look him up at work.

In the glovebox and I can prove it. Exterior cover has a nice round burn in it from the stupid glovebox light. :yes:

Looks legit to me http://frwebgate.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin ... &TYPE=TEXT

+1 with what Harper said. I did the same thing on my CJ7 years back, put the clutch in around midnight after about 10 hours of wrenching. Took me a couple trans drops and lots of swearing to figure out what I did :shake: I put the clutch disc in backwards. To my defense there was not "engine side or transmission side" stamp :yes: Good luck!

What was rebuilt? Motor, trans or both? Most "rebuilds" I've seen are half-assed jobs. Unless the PO had receipts or you trust them, my guess is what wildman said. Flexplate and torque converter were probably not replaced.

Just my opinion but real Jeeps are dead / no longer manufactured. The JK is ok I guess, not my cup of tea though. When I look at the past Jeep brands starting with the willys, I think of all the history, realiability and the fact that "MADE IN THE USA" :USAflag: :clapping: still meant something. When they stopped making the Cherokee, that was the final nail in the coffin if you ask me. Hell, even my "last of the the great breed" 2001 Cherokee isn't a real jeep either. :brows: Damnit I miss my CJ7..... :( Ahh memories http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMfEJi3_gZ4 :cheers:

Yeah they are. I've been finding plenty of "puke-goats" and AX-15's but didn't want to bother with the extra parts for the conversion since I already have a fresh 231 21 spline ready to bolt up.

Engine is in. :clapping: Still need a cylinder head though. Need to order flywheel, clutch, etc..and find a transmission.

You can remove the strap bolts on the shaft at the axle end. Only problem is you'll be able to inspect only two caps. Check to see if the needle bearings are still in the caps. Check for other obvious signs, cracks in the joint, slop, etc..In order to inspect all the caps and all ujoints, you'd need to remove them fromt he shaft. I'd highly suggest a press to remove / install joints. If you don't have one you could always find a machine or driveline shop. Really quick & cheap job.

I recently had the same issue with my 2001 Cherokee. Turned out to be worn u-joints on the front half-shafts and a bad u-joint on the rear drive shaft at the pinion end. All the needle bearings in one cap had completely disintegrated. Not sure why since I grease all my joints regularly. :???: Driveshafts could also be out of balance. I'd pull your front & rear driveshaft one at a time to help determine if a joint / shaft is bad.

Today I installed the crankshaft, cams, pistons and camshaft. More parts on order, engine should be back inside truck in about two weeks. Image Not Found Image Not Found Cylinder head is on hold. Would have turned it in with the rest to have machine but cost + new valetrain would have been close to $400 when I can buy a remanufactured one for $225. :nuts:

I feel your pain Pete. I had a very similar problem about two years back. I had my Comanche parked in my driveway which I was actively working on. At this point in time, the engine, trans, and exhaust had been pulled. The jeep was in great condition too, it wasn't a junker at first glance (good paint, body, etc..) The only way to tell it wasn't running was by looking inside the cab. (Shifter was missing due to the transmission being pulled). Never had a problem with the city or any complaints during the last year living at the residence. At one point my wife and I bought a pure bred german shephard which became very protective of us and our our property. We lived in a really bad neighborhood and the dog kept all the hoodlums and riff-raff walking on the opposite side of the street. :D Anyways, after getting the dog we began to have mail delivery problems. The lady delivering the mail wouldn't come near the residence which was understandble since the dog was outside a lot during the summer. Fast forward a few months, I lose my job so I'm home pretty much 24/7. The mail isn't being delievered and we get post office memos saying "mail not delivered - dog out". This happened a couple times when I was home and the dog was *inside*. We made complaints a couple times and never saw the same postal carrier again. Transfered or fired, who knows. Not but two days later code enforcement is out via anonymous complaint about my truck which is parked right next to the side of the house with the mail slot. Carrier probably got pissed and was trying to get even was my guess. The truck is considered a "junker" and will be removed at my expense from my own driveway if I don't get it running. Whoever wrote the code had good intent. We have tons of vehicles that sit in front yards with weeds growing up around them. Anyhow, by defination any vehicle that sat in the same spot for more than 72 hours (reglardless of domain) that had a flat tire, missing gear knob, and other piddly stupid crap was considered a nuisance. Funny enough, parking in your front yard wasn't a violation. Being law enforcement myself, the guy cut me some slack and didn't bother me for a couple months about it but by then we moved. What a man does on his own property is his own damn business. I used to take complaints from jerks who got mad when vehicles on their street block were parked in the same spot for more than 72 hours. Someone made a complaint about a fellow jeeper and his grand wagoneer parked his driveway which he was working on. I told him don't worry about it and left. :thumbsup: Stupid laws written by stupid people.

Thanks for the info. I went through some old photos I took and it looks like the engine originally had the bearing caps with the > mark pointed rearward. I also google'd a couple photos of various 2.5/4.0's and the numbers are "right side up" when looking at the bottom of the engine and the snout is to the left. Make sense? :nuts: Anyways I reversed the caps and the assembly rotates fine.

So I'm putting my block together after all my parts came back from the machine shop. My block didn't have any codes (i.e. P, M or PM) stamped on it so it *should* be a standard size crank / rods. Crank came back with .010 / .010. My bearings say .010 on both the box and stamped on the bearing itself. Crank spins freely before caps. Yes bearings are oriented corrently :D I also used assembly lube. When I install the caps (arrow facing front) and tighten bolts finger tight, I can't spin the crank. I have to use a big-@$$ socket wrench on the snout and even then I can barely turn it. :wall:

My parts showed up from rockauto this morning. Going to start engine assembly this weekend. :banana:

Picked up my block and internals yesterday. Bearings, timing set, etc..are on order. Cam was reground for more power. Crank is .010 / .010 and block was bored .030 over. Only had enough time yesterday to get the block on the stand and clean all the threads. Hopefully have more time this weekend. Headliner will be next and carpet so I can put the bench back in. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Sounds like the power steering pump is putting out too much pressure.

Top Gear is awesome, I love the humor. The Airport race was hilarious. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHD6f_XrYNk

I wanted to keep it simple because the truck will be used for daily driving. No lift or anything fancy, just restoring it to original condition.